Civic - Honda :: How To Reduce Clutch Pedal Travel
Oct 19, 2014
I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is.
As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. On pedal depression the inverse is true. As modern hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, this once-necessary extra distance is pointless.
(I would rather clutch with my ankle than my whole leg. If I could cut the pedal travel in half (or more), I would like that very much.) Is this possible? How would I do such a thing?
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I started having a strange clicking sound when pushing down the clutch pedal. I have 43,000 miles on it and I have driven the clutch well(I really don't believe I already worn it up). It goes away and then it comes back. There is no problem on shifting from gear to gear, it works just fine. It is only when I push the pedal that it starts clicking like it pushing against something. The car dealership was so useless, they said I need a new clutch and that warranty does not cover it because I may have been using the clutch badly. Also do you think that they have the right to tell me it is my fault even though I have the extended warranty for 100, 000 miles.
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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I own a manual 1992 Honda Civic VX. Recently, the clutch has started to stick about halfway up when I take my foot off after shifting sometimes. I pull it up with my foot when it does this, but clearly it shouldn't be happening. What could be causing this?
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I have a 95 Honda civic with a d15b block and a d16z6 head millage unknown I put a new clutch in it already had a new slave and master I installed a few weeks ago and when the car is running with out the clutch pressed in I can run through all the gears shift with ease it's like the clutch is pressed in but it's not
I've tried dropping the tranny and checking the pressure plate the clutch disc throw out bearing pilot bearing all good and installed right I rebleed the system then I removed the slave to see if it was in the hydroelectric system and still no change what am I missing.
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We have a 99 Honda Civic. Our clutch is sticking in all gears and won't go into 5th gear at all. There is no resistance when I push down on the clutch pedal.
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I have replaced the computer in a Honda Civic twice. The first time the car was acting like it wasn't getting power;the engine would rev when the gas pedal was pressed but the car would not go! so the computer was replaced, and two weeks later,t he same thing happened. They said it was a short and would not replace the computer-it was our problem. Finally, they agreed to replace the part. Got the car back, fixed a ouple of othere things and now, two weeks later, the same thing is happening. Car acts like it's not getting any power, and this time the check iengine light came on. The car has a new altenator, new battery, and the after-factory radio has been removed..
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Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
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Car is a 97 civic. I had a input shaft bearing replaced since i had the tranny off. I decided to change the flywheel clutch and bearings. After install I have cold not shift into gears with engine running. I fixed the problem by removing almost all of the free play in the pedal. Should i replace the master to get some of the free play back in the pedal?
Second and main problem, when i release the clutch pedal there is a ratchet/grinding noise. It changes with engine revving and the further out the pedal the louder the noise. I think i attached a noise clip. I have dropped my transmission to ensure everything is installed correctly. reinstalled the tranny with the same noise. Bleeding the clutch did not work either. Pedal does seems soft but not getting stuck.
New parts:
Flywheel
Pilot bearing
Clutch disc
Pressure plate throwout bearing
Transmission Synchs
Bearing kit
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Now with the new clutch installed, it makes a terrible noise with my foot off of the clutch in neutral. I can't get into any gears; it'll just grind gears.
Here is a video of the noise. Again the noise only occurs with my foot off of the clutch pedal. Quiet with my foot on the clutch. I can't get into any gears.
1996 Honda Civic
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I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
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I have a 2002 Honda civic (manual). Lately, when I have pushed in the clutch to start it, the engine makes a bad sound. It sounds similar to the sound an automatic would make when you turn the key while it is already running.
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,My wife drives a 96 Civic DX Hatchback, 5 Speed. It has about 160,000 miles on it, and she only drives it to work and back (a 15 minute drive via the interstate).
Just yesterday, she told me that the clutch feels 'looser' than normal, for lack of a better term. When it's first started, it's hard for her to get it into first and/or reverse, but once driving, she says the shifting is fine. When she's driving at highway speeds in 5th for a while, then has to get off at her exit, she said it's hard for her to get it back into 1st gear. She says she feels like she has to push the clutch harder than normal to get it back into 1st gear.
I don't know much about manual transmissions, and am hoping for some insight into what the problem(s) may be?
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Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
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A mechanic recently replaced the pads of the front brakes. After the service, the break makes squeaking noise when I release the break pedal. According to the mechanic, it is normal, and I better ignore the noise. Is it true?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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Vehicle inconsistently/occasionally taking multiple turns of key to start. Then, multiple turns of key with pressing of gas pedal, which has now progress to stalling (three times within one month) immediately after difficulty with starting and when stopped at a light.
Took vehicle to Honda dealership... dealership could not duplicate the problem so replaced...1) coil assembly, ignition2) head assembly, rotor3) cap assembly4) spark plugs
Two days later the problem reoccurred-- two turns to start-up and when placed the car in reverse to back out of my parking space and in the process of moving, the car stalled, but started on the first turn of the key and I drove straight to the dealership.
They now believe it may be the main fuel relay or the fuel pressure regular.
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I had a new clutch put in my '94 civic a few months back during the engine rebuild. I'm anal about saving gas so I tend to shift a bit early, not enough to make the engine chug, but I might shift into 3rd gear at 17 mph. Never had a problem with it. Since the rebuild, when I do shift earlier, the car has hiccups where there is little or no power for a half to full second. The engine will sputter for a bit until I get up into normal operating range. But it's not like before, I'm shifting no earlier than I have been for the last 6 years and have never dealt with this before. The rpm's don't shoot up so I don't think it's actually slippage.
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Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
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How to reduce some of the sponginess in a brake pedal? I've already checked my brake fluid level, am positive there is no air in any of the lines. Looking for fixes to solve my issue of having to put my brake pedal to the floor before the pads start to grab the disc?
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