Civic - Honda :: 1999 1.5 EX Doesn't Kick Down When Pressing Throttle At Low Speeds
May 4, 2013
I've tagged this as a Civic but it's a 1999 Honda City 1.5 EX. (Asian market vehicle)
Normally this car would shift to 2nd at 20km/hr and 3rd at 40. But if I hit 40+ and it shifts into third, then coast for a while and let the speed drop to below 40 (say 35), when I push the throttle now the car doesn't kick down and it feels like it has almost no power even if I push the throttle to the floor. The feeling of no power lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then the car downshifts automatically and the RPMs shoot up. Quite dangerous trying to move around quickly in Asian city traffic. I adjusted the kick down cable to make it stiffer, but now the same problem happens at a higher speed and shifting at a higher RPM.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
Vehicle inconsistently/occasionally taking multiple turns of key to start. Then, multiple turns of key with pressing of gas pedal, which has now progress to stalling (three times within one month) immediately after difficulty with starting and when stopped at a light.
Took vehicle to Honda dealership... dealership could not duplicate the problem so replaced...1) coil assembly, ignition2) head assembly, rotor3) cap assembly4) spark plugs
Two days later the problem reoccurred-- two turns to start-up and when placed the car in reverse to back out of my parking space and in the process of moving, the car stalled, but started on the first turn of the key and I drove straight to the dealership.
They now believe it may be the main fuel relay or the fuel pressure regular.
View 5 Replies
I was recently given a 1999 Honda Civic Lx for free from a family member and its been my day to day vehicle for months. I wont lie, aside from keeping oil, gas, and all of the standard stuff like it I haven't put very much work into it since I got it. Recently I noticed the car would start to run hot at low speeds and while sitting at traffic lights, stop signs, etc. When this would happen I would just throw some water in the radiator cap and the problem would be solved. For a few days at least. Today I was driving and did not notice that the temperature was getting pretty high. Not into the red, but getting close.
When I saw this I immediately started looking for some where to pull over to put some water in. Before I could get stopped I heard a loud popping noise and the sound of water pouring out from somewhere underneath the car. The second this happened the temperature gauge went down for a few mins but then rapidly shot back up. I got stopped and started putting water in, though I assumed the damage had been done. Sure enough the water eventually started coming out of the bottom of the car. Seems like its coming out of the little crevices in the engine and not the hose or the radiator. Im assuming (or hoping, maybe) this is a blown head gasket and not something more serious. The car is now parked and not going anywhere until repairs are made.
View 19 Replies
When I am driving about 40 in 5th gear and let off the throttle, there is a slight jerk in the engine. Is it a loose motor mount?
View 4 Replies
We have a 98 Honda Civic that recently developed a problem with the throttle getting stuck open. With the engine off, the throttle will return to the idle position. However, with the engine is running, when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine revs increase, but then do not decrease when the pedal is let off. The same thing happens when the throttle is manually opened (not using the cable) with the engine running. The valve for the air intake doe not seem particularly dirty. I cleaned the spring assembly which I initially thought was the problem. The car is sitting the the driveway with both of us moderately terrified of driving it?
View 12 Replies
I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
View 5 Replies
With just above 100K miles our Honda has been wobbling, wiggling and shimmying for a couple of years and a half-dozen trips to our mechanic and to the tire shop have found nothing. The wobble occurs at all speeds and can really be felt even at sub 15mph speeds to the point where my knees can be seen shaking in time.
When it first happened I thought it was the brakes, so I had a major brake job done to no effect (it did need it, so it wasn't wasted money). My mechanic was a winner on the recommended shops on your website and has done all my work, except tires, for more than 6 years and he has been real good at avoiding unnecessary work, taking the time to check things out without charge. He's had it looked over thoroughly and can't find anything in the tie rods, CV joints, etc. that could be fixed.
My local tire shop, also a long-term customer, has been over the tires twice and can't find anything wrong either. It's shaking pretty bad and I'm getting even more nervous about high speed driving.
View 11 Replies
My 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid (manual) makes a loud squealing noise (between the speeds of about 25 and 45. It usually starts making the noise once the car has warmed up (but does not always make the noise). It makes the noise when the car is coasting but not when I accelerate or brake. The noise seems to be coming from somewhere in the front end.
View 6 Replies
My car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.
View 4 Replies
This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
View 5 Replies
I Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
View 7 Replies
I have a 92 Honda CX hatchback, 5pd with 140k on it. Since I bought the car used about a year ago it's had a low speed stumbling/bucking issue. For the most part, it's only when driving slow and steady but occasionally at highway speeds it'll do it as well. It's as though the whole engine just cuts out for a second. Giving it more gas always brings it back but it's incredibly annoying, especially in a parking lot with a cup of coffee or something in your hand.
For starters, the rotor, wires and cap are all very recent. I pulled the ECU codes and it indicated #7, Throttle Angle Sensor. Bought a new one, calibrated it, reset ECU and drove on. No change. Car still bucks and the CEL comes on occasionally. At first, I suspected the plug to the TPS since it was loose. I pulled new wire and soldered directly to the ECU and TPS. No change. Of interesting note, when the CEL would come on, it seems the TPS falls offline and the car runs great! I disconnected it for a tankful and noticed my 40mpg/hwy go down to 25mpg. Completely unacceptable for a car so painfully slow.
Another observation, the stumbling doesn't start until the car warms up. Also, if it's particularly humid/raining, sometimes it won't do it at all. A lot of people have suggested the O2 sensor, distributor, fuel pump/filter. I don't have money to just start throwing at this thing and of many similar issues I've read of others with the same car, nobody seems to have a solid fix.
I've replaced the TPS, completely cleaned the throttle body and IACV, checked for vacuum leaks and even opened up the ECU looking for cold solder joints. It looks newer than new inside. Like I said, with the TPS disconnected, car runs great but the mileage goes south.
View 3 Replies
I own a 1997 Honda Civic EX. Automatic. 160,000 miles. I have had the front disk rotors and pads replaced five (5) times within the past two years due to "warped" rotor issue. I recently changed the two front calipers as well to rule out caliper issues. Yet I continually end up with a warped right front rotor weeks after putting on new rotors. Here is what happens. Car brakes fine for a week or two with the new rotors. Then shortly afterwards, the right front rotor (passenger side) quickly develops a rubbing -like noise (not a grinding noise) when braking at a low speed. It's not a constant rubbing noise but a rhythmic swoosh swoosh swoosh noise as the tire rotates and the brake is softly applied. You can feel it in the brake pedal. This noise eventually gets louder and louder the more I use the brakes (or, the hotter they get?). It can also cause the steering wheel to vibrate at certain speeds when braking.
I have had it into four different mechanics.
Mechanic 1: Your rotor is warped.
Mechanic 2: You are too hard on your brakes causing the rotor to warp.
Mechanic 3: Did you go through a puddle of water lately?
Mechanic 4: You need new brakes. Period.
This is getting ridiculous. In all my years of driving, I have never encountered this problem. I am not hard on my brakes. I do not believe the "water puddle" theory at all. I should mention, although these are not oem rotors. they are not some cheap Chinese ones either. Something must be causing this rotor to "warp" if it's really warping at all. I have had the tires rotated to rule out a bent rim. It happens no matter what tire is on the right front car. What could be causing this? A bad front end alignment... bad wheel bearing... (although no mechanic ever indicated that as a problem)... bent splash guard... bad master cylinder? Air in the brake lines... old brake fluid???
View 3 Replies
I just recently bought a used 2013 Honda Civic with 22,000 miles.
When I apply the brakes at speeds below 20mph, you can hear a high pitch intermittent squeak from the front right wheel. The time in between each squeak gets longer as you slow down.
I check the pads on both sides and they are both fairly new. (close to a cm on the pad left) The wear indicators were no where close to the edge of the pad. I greased them up and still nothing. I checked around the rotor for any metal that could be touching it but I didn't find anything. What would make an intermittent squeak like that.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2010 Honda Civic with 73K miles. I've noticed that the car can get loud when driving .
It has 4 Michelin Primacy tires from Costco put on at 45K. Not sure when the noise started, but now with my iphone I run a sound meter app and the sound level is 80 - 95db . Yeah, it's not calibrated, but my wife's Lexus reads about 75db worst case. so even just relative to the lexus, it's loud.
The noise is loudest (95db)at around 57MPH and some other speeds like 47, 67 also. Other speeds in between these, it gets down to 80db.
There's NO vibration at any speeds (so tires are balanced?)There's NO pull to either side when driving There's NO pull to either side when brakingThere's NO change in the sound level when putting the transmission in neutral (so it's not a trans issue?)There's NO change in the sound level when the engine is idling at the speeds (so the sound is not tied to RPM level)There's NO discernible change in the sound level on different roads (so 57 MPH is loud on most any road).The tires are wearing normallyRotating the tires had no change in the sound level
What's left? Tires and axle / bearings? Is there anything I can do to look for / test for to figure out the issue, short of a new set of tires? I guess I'll have a mechanic look at the bearings?
Is tire noise usually tied to road speed in that pattern of getting louder at a certain speed, getting quieter above and below that speed, then get louder again at another certain speed.
View 13 Replies
As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.
View 3 Replies
My 2012 Honda Civic, with 71000 miles, is showing obvious signs of ball joint problems - a rattle at speeds over 50mph, and LOTS of noise when I go over a bump. I had a quick oil change yesterday, then immediately noticed the problem. Brought it back to the manager of the shop, who looked at it and couldn't find a problem (naturally). He said that the car would pass inspection with flying colors.
Is this a coincidence? Could I have worn ball joints on a car that's 2.5 years old? What could these people have possibly done to cause this problem? Could it be struts? The winter has created frost heaves which turned my street into a third-world road, and the car was involved in an accident 1.5 years ago when some lady ran a red light on me.
View 10 Replies
1999 honda accord LX/AT, 156k, 4 cyl, automatic, original owner, been doing all the regular maintenance..
About a year back, got the EGR valve cleaned and then replaced due to some stalls.a month back engine stalled and gave up on highway 10 miles into the morning drive.had to put it in neutral, and push it to shoulder.. ignition would turn over, engine would try to start but wouldn't.shop replaced the IAC.. they didn't say if there were any codes..
All this while, in stop-and-go traffic, where i try to be efficient and keep pumping on thegas pedal and cruising as opposed to braking, i have been noticing adelay/hesitation between pressing on the gas, and the engine responding.sometimes i feel like a lurch, and fear that a stall is coming, but the rpm's pick up and thecar goes on.
If I am decisively hitting the gas or braking, the engine is behaving better!it is when i am pumping on the gas and releasing, that i observe this hesitation.. Also there is a delay in the car shifting into higher gear..
View 10 Replies
When I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
View 10 Replies
I owned a 2012 Ford Mustang that had a safety issue with the stability control. At random times around 50MPH, the stability control would randomly kick on, cutting throttle and applying the brakes - sometimes with force - causing the car to slow down, shimmy, and sway from side to side. These incidents didn't happen often, but when they did - watch out! Since the dealer couldn't replicate the issue, I decided to take a video of the car performing it's deed (and others have as well. This is by no means limited to just my car). Ford - at the corporate level - basically told me that unless the problem was happening when the dealership was looking at it, they weren't going to do a thing about it. As far as they were concerned, what I was experiencing was perfectly acceptable, and apparently normal.
View 7 Replies
My S10 started downshifting at highway speeds when I slightly let up on the throttle. It only starts after driving 20 or 30 miles down the road. (gets hot?) It also hesitates slightly starting from a dead stop as well after that. I dropped the pan, cleaned it up and added new fluid. There was a fine powdery sludge on the magnet in the pan, but no metal shavings. It is still doing the same thing.
It has 95,500 miles on it. 2.2 motor. The fluid was low a couple weeks ago. I added a bottle of conditioner. Don't remember the brand name. 2 reservoirs in the bottle so it mixes as you pour it in. It started acting up 7 days ago.
View 1 Replies
