Civic - Honda :: Loud At Certain Speeds - Tire Or Axle / Bearing Noise?


Dec 3, 2014

I have a 2010 Honda Civic with 73K miles. I've noticed that the car can get loud when driving .

It has 4 Michelin Primacy tires from Costco put on at 45K. Not sure when the noise started, but now with my iphone I run a sound meter app and the sound level is 80 - 95db . Yeah, it's not calibrated, but my wife's Lexus reads about 75db worst case. so even just relative to the lexus, it's loud.

The noise is loudest (95db)at around 57MPH and some other speeds like 47, 67 also. Other speeds in between these, it gets down to 80db.

There's NO vibration at any speeds (so tires are balanced?)There's NO pull to either side when driving There's NO pull to either side when brakingThere's NO change in the sound level when putting the transmission in neutral (so it's not a trans issue?)There's NO change in the sound level when the engine is idling at the speeds (so the sound is not tied to RPM level)There's NO discernible change in the sound level on different roads (so 57 MPH is loud on most any road).The tires are wearing normallyRotating the tires had no change in the sound level

What's left? Tires and axle / bearings? Is there anything I can do to look for / test for to figure out the issue, short of a new set of tires? I guess I'll have a mechanic look at the bearings?

Is tire noise usually tied to road speed in that pattern of getting louder at a certain speed, getting quieter above and below that speed, then get louder again at another certain speed.

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My girlfriend and I just bought a 2011 a few weeks ago. We test drove it a couple times ourselves, and had our mechanic take a look at it and drive it also. Everything looked and sounded good. Not sure how much it matters, but it's a Certified Used as well.

A couple days ago, returning from a 45-minute drive which included some short stretches of gravel road, I noticed an oscillating sound. It's definitely not a noise that was there when we bought the car. Unfortunately, my cell is apparently bad at capturing audio, so hopefully my description will be enough.

The noise is very faint, almost inaudible, at low speeds. Between 30 and 35 mph it gets much louder, peaking at about 33. There's some vibration through the accelerator pedal also. Above 35, it fades pretty quickly and I can't really hear it at 50. The sound itself is 3 beats on, 1 beat off, about every second. There's a slight difference in pitch between each beat.

If that isn't enough to go on, let me know and I'll give the recording another shot and upload it if the noise is audible.

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One more fact, the right rear and left front tires lose 5-10 psi of air a week. They were filled yesterday, so they should be around 30 psi still (door sticker recommendation). New tires put on last summer by previous owner- not sure if they were losing air at that rate before the new treads or not.

I plan on buying a used wheels to replace current ones to hopefully remedy the losing air situation!

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Is this a coincidence? Could I have worn ball joints on a car that's 2.5 years old? What could these people have possibly done to cause this problem? Could it be struts? The winter has created frost heaves which turned my street into a third-world road, and the car was involved in an accident 1.5 years ago when some lady ran a red light on me.

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Then a few things happened– smoke starts coming out the exhaust, the check engine light comes on, and the car starts to overheat. Seems like it was pretty much all at once, although it was in that order that I noticed... I rolled the windows down and turn the heat on high, but the air coming through the system wasn't at all hot. I got off the highway and as I downshifted, the engine started to smoke a little. I get to the end of the off-ramp and the engine dies. It wouldn't start back up right away but I managed to start it a couple of times (between it dying) to get it to coast into a parking lot. Under the hood, there was coolant everywhere it seemed, but I couldn't see anything else apparently wrong– hoses, etc.

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Recent front end parts replaced:

1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
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Sunday I had a new set of tires put on my Civic. They told me that one of the four Tire Pressure Monitoring System sensors was bad and that they'd have to order me a new one. I drove home that day with the TPMS light on, which was expected.

This morning I went back to the shop and they replaced the bad sensor. However, after resetting, and doing whatever else it is they did with the handheld computer thing a half-dozen times, the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light is not only on, but blinking. (The TPMS light is off). They drove it around, they checked it with their computer thing again, they plugged in the handheld thing to reset it, went around and did something at each of the tire stems multiple times, but no matter what they did, the light wouldn't (and won't) stop blinking.

"If it doesn't stop on its own, you might have to bring it to a Honda Dealer."

Seriously?

I used to have an old Aurora that would turn on the engine light every time a reading went slightly out of whack, and after so many ignition key turns (on and off) the light would turn off on its own. Is that the case here? Or is this light going to blink forever until I go to the Honda Dealer?

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When I saw this I immediately started looking for some where to pull over to put some water in. Before I could get stopped I heard a loud popping noise and the sound of water pouring out from somewhere underneath the car. The second this happened the temperature gauge went down for a few mins but then rapidly shot back up. I got stopped and started putting water in, though I assumed the damage had been done. Sure enough the water eventually started coming out of the bottom of the car. Seems like its coming out of the little crevices in the engine and not the hose or the radiator. Im assuming (or hoping, maybe) this is a blown head gasket and not something more serious. The car is now parked and not going anywhere until repairs are made.

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Civic - Honda :: 1992 - Stumbling / Bucking At Highway Speeds

I have a 92 Honda CX hatchback, 5pd with 140k on it. Since I bought the car used about a year ago it's had a low speed stumbling/bucking issue. For the most part, it's only when driving slow and steady but occasionally at highway speeds it'll do it as well. It's as though the whole engine just cuts out for a second. Giving it more gas always brings it back but it's incredibly annoying, especially in a parking lot with a cup of coffee or something in your hand.

For starters, the rotor, wires and cap are all very recent. I pulled the ECU codes and it indicated #7, Throttle Angle Sensor. Bought a new one, calibrated it, reset ECU and drove on. No change. Car still bucks and the CEL comes on occasionally. At first, I suspected the plug to the TPS since it was loose. I pulled new wire and soldered directly to the ECU and TPS. No change. Of interesting note, when the CEL would come on, it seems the TPS falls offline and the car runs great! I disconnected it for a tankful and noticed my 40mpg/hwy go down to 25mpg. Completely unacceptable for a car so painfully slow.

Another observation, the stumbling doesn't start until the car warms up. Also, if it's particularly humid/raining, sometimes it won't do it at all. A lot of people have suggested the O2 sensor, distributor, fuel pump/filter. I don't have money to just start throwing at this thing and of many similar issues I've read of others with the same car, nobody seems to have a solid fix.

I've replaced the TPS, completely cleaned the throttle body and IACV, checked for vacuum leaks and even opened up the ECU looking for cold solder joints. It looks newer than new inside. Like I said, with the TPS disconnected, car runs great but the mileage goes south.

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Civic - Honda :: 1997 - Steering Wheel To Vibrate At Certain Speeds When Braking

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I have had it into four different mechanics.

Mechanic 1: Your rotor is warped.
Mechanic 2: You are too hard on your brakes causing the rotor to warp.
Mechanic 3: Did you go through a puddle of water lately?
Mechanic 4: You need new brakes. Period.

This is getting ridiculous. In all my years of driving, I have never encountered this problem. I am not hard on my brakes. I do not believe the "water puddle" theory at all. I should mention, although these are not oem rotors. they are not some cheap Chinese ones either. Something must be causing this rotor to "warp" if it's really warping at all. I have had the tires rotated to rule out a bent rim. It happens no matter what tire is on the right front car. What could be causing this? A bad front end alignment... bad wheel bearing... (although no mechanic ever indicated that as a problem)... bent splash guard... bad master cylinder? Air in the brake lines... old brake fluid???

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