Civic - Honda :: A/C Does Not Work When Hot Outside
Oct 1, 2015
2006 Honda Civic, 150k miles .. A/C does not work when its hot outside. When the A/C does work it cools well..
When I take the car out of garage the A/C cools well but as I start driving and if the weather outside is hot, the A/C stops cooling after some time. And it will then not cool again till I park the car in a garage and the engine has cooled down..
If the day temperature is generally high and the garage is hot then the A/C will not cool right from the beginning..
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I have a Honda civic 2005 LX, 170,000 miles. I love this car as I went through my tough time with it. I don't want to give it up until it dies if possible. Only issue of this care is AC does not work when temperature is hot. It works really good when it's cold/rain. When I turn on the car and AC in the morning, the compressor works fine for 5-10 minutes and it turns off when the engine is normal temp.(below mid line). I went to one local mechanic and I was told Freon level is good.
They spend about an hour to figure out what's going on and they told me that I need to change my entire compressor, I felt they just can't figure out what exactly causes it and want to just scare me with big $, to make me give it up. (because compressor works fine when it's cold. I think something with temperature) I recently changed my Thermostat, filled up coolant, and changed crutch-AC relay fuse but no change in the AC symptoms. I will need AC for sure when I move into Arizona next summer!
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My cruise control does not work and the mechanic has diganosed the cruise control servo as the problem. The shop gave me an estimate of $700 (parts & labor) to replace it. Given the age of the car and the cost of repair, I am leaning towards doing it myself. I am handy with tools but have not done this type of repair before.
My question: Is there a downside to doing this repair myself. If I elect to do it myself, what do I need to watch for?
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I have a 2009 Honda Civic with about 68,000 miles on it. Yesterday my car started up fine before leaving to work. 7 hours later my car did not start. All my lights work, horn works. Took the battery out and had it tested anyway. They told me the battery is good. I've been reading about other civics having issues with the "anti theft" immobilizer and it keeping their car from starting. Before I take my car to a mechanic, to test starter and everything else.
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As a precautionary measure, I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 2003 Honda Civic. The mechanic noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking and I also had that replaced. After the repair, I noticed that my cruise control does not work (turns-on on the dashboard but does not work). I am taking the car back to have it fixed.
My question is where/what areas should I ask the mechanic to check to fix? I am thinking it could be as simple as a disconnected connection but I am not entirely sure.
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We have a 91 civic whose air conditioner doesn't work. The coolant level is good, and the compressor is running, but we only get external air coming through the vent.
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I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
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I have kind of a strange problem with my 1992 Honda Civic. When I have my car in park with the headlights on my left brake light doesn't light up but my right does. When I put the car in gear or parked with the headlights off, the right brake light no longer lights up but the left does. What I should do? Hopefully there's a cheap fix because my car's not worth a whole lot.
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2005 Honda Civic which has been pretty reliable up to this point. Had all the suggested maintenance services up until the most recent which just passed. Last oil change and inspection: Early November.
Last month:Went to start up the car and it basically went all blinky with power. But after letting it sit for a minute or two, it started up just fine. This happened three times. On the third time opened up the hood and found corrode on both polls of the battery. Scrubbed and cleaned the posts and connectors. Had the battery tested and it was just fine. After that no problems or occurrences. Only things that lingers in my head is that perhaps the driver door window rolls down slowly (thought the motor was going out and would have to replace soon) and the headlines would slightly dim and waver at times, but not consistently.
Now:Just got back from vacation and car has been sitting about two weeks. Mostly in weather below freezing, but in a garage. Went to start up the car and the starter would rev but the engine would not turn over. Battery seems to be good still. Jumping did not work either.
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1997 Civic HX, runs great, no motor issue....more like driveline.....Recently picked up a vibration, it just got much worse. My thought is there's a bad CV joint, but I can't find much play.....Was vibrating at 60mph, let of the gas & it goes away.....now, vibrates from the word go as if somethings out of round, if I coast, I now get a thunk/thunk/thunk until I ease back on the gas, then it vibrates. Braking.....out of gear...thunk/thunk/thunk hardcore, braking while in gear I get nothing but less vibes.....Steering wheel does not shake, 4 brand new tires, brakes seem fine.......CV JOINT?? or Something internal?
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Recently, my Check Engine and IMA Check lights both came on. My Honda garage tech advised me that the code revealed "Battery Deterioration". The code was cleared and when the car was restarted both lights had gone off and have not come back on....yet (10 days ago). Eventually, I know the lights will reappear and I will have to commit (or do I?) to a new battery. The battery installed would run about $2500 dollars. A question occurs to me now that didn't when I was at the garage. Would that car function normally without the IMA? I know the mileage would drop but would I still be able to drive the car?
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I have a 200 Honda Civic. Great Car. problem is intermittent. Sometimes the car idles down so low it seems as though it is about to die. At other times, it idles down normally (6-900 or so)
I have cleaned the throttle body, and no change.
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My 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid died yesterday and the dealership said that the transmission is ruined and needs to be replaced. It has 102,000 miles and has a Constant Variable Transmission. At 84,000 miles I had the transmission fluid drained and refilled at a local reputable mechanic (not the dealership) and they added 3.5 quarts of Honda ATF fluid instead of CVT fluid.
Is that what killed my transmission? Why was it able to run for 20,000 miles with the wrong fluid? I have been very good about getting oil changes and keeping up on the maintenance. What is the life expectancy of this transmission? Should the mechanic who made the error replace the transmission at no cost to me? Should he reimburse me for my rental car?
What steps should I take?
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My 1998 Honda Civic has been dormant in my drive way for about a month and a half with very little gas. I went out to try to start it the other day and it struggled for a bit and never turned over. It isn't the batter considering the headlights and radio work just fine, thus I sought out the nearby gas station and attempted to solve the problem by putting gas in it, yet when I returned and emptied out my gas can into the tank it was the same ol' story. What it could be?
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I have a rattling noise coming from my front end it happens when the temp drops below 60 when its above that i barely hear it.i have had the front end checked and they found nothing. I have had the struts replaced.it has 150k.
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2003 Civic EX ... I read some of the past questions on this topic, but not sure where to start.
-AC blows warm air.
-AC light comes on as it should (green)
-Underhood Fuses are fine
-Refilled Antifreeze a few days ago, but still blows warm.
-Turned on the AC, lifted the hood and did not see the two large fans blowing. (Not sure if that has to do with AC or just cooling the engine).
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I've replaced the ignition coilI've replaced the fuel pumpI've replaced the main relayI don't have air conditioningIf it's 80 degrees or hotter, it will stall after a few minutes of drivingIt doesn't smell like rotten eggs, so the catalytic convertor is goodWhen I try to start it up right after it stalls, it starts up for a second, then shuts back downIt starts back up in a couple minutes
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Started happening 3 days ago. This only occurs when the car is idle and the A/C is on. It does not kill the engine but makes it bog down during this. The cycle is that it dies this and then runs smooth for 30 seconds before starting again. Does not happen when in gear (that im aware of) When traveling in neighborhoods the air blows cool, main roads cold, highway ice cold. Idle it blows warm. I will be able to test the coolant levels with a friends gauge tomorrow. What is causing this.
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I have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
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My daughter's 2002 Honda Civic is overheating unless you drive over 60 mph. The heater is also not working - it blows air but the air is cold. It is full of coolant - we checked. The thermostat was replaced about 2 months ago.
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So my honda 95 civic 1.5 engine is stalling out I think that it is my transmission so Im going to check that out in the morning my question is how much do I put in I watched a video on how to do it, do I need to put 3 quarts of the fluid in it or can I sneak by with just 2 quarts.
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