OK, I just recently discovered my timing chain was grinding. Now, there are metal shavings in my oil and filter. What would you recommend to flush the shavings out of the engine, so it doesn't cause further damage? Other than this, my truck is running perfectly fine. It has 106,000 miles on the motor. Are there any other concerns that I should consider?
View 10 RepliesI have a quick question, when a timing chain breaks on a gli does it cause damage to the engine(like mess up the piston and valves) need to know ASAP.
View 1 RepliesOn my 97... Last summer my compressor started to spit out metal shavings and when i took it to be recharged one of the hoses had a leak and there were shavings in the line. I replaced the compressor, that line that leaked and the can looking thing (accumulator?). I also got the orphase tube but I didnt know where it went and told the guys that were going to charge it to replace it. Well it was still sitting on the console and they didnt put the new one in. Well it worked fine last year but now its acting up. It will blow cold air when the motor is over 1000rpms but cuts out at random times and blows hot air. Im not sure if I need to get that orphase tube replaced and have it charged again or if its some vacuum issue. What I should do?
View 8 RepliesChanged my filters and this was in the bottom of the filter housing. I looked on the pleats and down in the center didn't find anything. Went to two Ford diesel techs one said is was the hpfp and should do the the whole fuel system. The other said if the hpfp was coming apart the shaving would not be in the bottom of bowl and to check the filter again in 5k miles. No check engine light, drives great, no other problems.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
View 14 RepliesI was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 RepliesHere is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
I bored and tapped one of the spark plug holes in my Triton engine. And I used a long aluminum rod attachment for my air compressor to blow out the metal bits from inside the cylinder. I started with a full tank of air, and used it all up to try and get everything out that I could. But with my bore-scope I could see a lot left over along the edges of the piston. So two more times I filled up, and emptied the air tank (15 gallons, 150psi). Some more of the chips came out, but after the second time there were still some chips there, and the third time didn't work much.
My bore-scope doesn't have the best resolution, but I think there are a few chips that are stuck between the piston and the cylinder wall. Since there were only a few, and they are aluminum, I decided to do what I saw another youtuber do. I just started the engine for a few moments without the spark plug, so I might blow out any remaining chips (although he did it without first using compressed air at all.)
That was the first cylinder I bored, tapped, and installed an insert into. But for the other cylinders, I would like to avoid any metal bits left in the cylinder. But I can't think of any way to prevent some from wedging themselves between the piston and wall (if that's what is happening).
I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
View 1 RepliesI commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
View 7 RepliesI replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
View 2 RepliesI have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
I have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....
Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.
This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.
2004 F150 FX4 ....
I have a 2011 Prius with about 32K miles on it. I've been hearing light metal on metal grinding noise for a few days now. So I decided to take it to a stealership and they told me my ceramic pads and brake rotors both need to be replaced for all 4 wheels. I thought Prius brakes don't need to be replaced for 100K miles.
View 7 RepliesThis morning on my way to work, pulling into the parking lot around 20mph. I hear a metal on metal grinding noise. (almost to the sound of a muffler dragging on the ground type noise). Then that disappears for a bit, hear a loud metal clunk then some high pitched sound. All within say 30 seconds. Definitely coming from the back, but can not tell from which side.
Things I've checked in the parking lot:
Nothing hanging low, exhaust seems in-tact
It doesn't look like the brake shields behind the rotors are bent or touching
Sounds still happening if on or off brakes , on or off throttle.
It seemed to happen only at lower speeds. Disappeared once I got up to 50mph
Just took it out for a drive, that loud metal clunk happened when I put it into reverse, drove around, no other sounds. I just don't have a warm fuzzy feeling that this will just disappear.
I recently broke a timing belt on my 1999 AEB 1.8t Passat. I'm in the process of doing all of the repairs myself while working around my college and work schedule. I have yet to pull the head off, and I'm scared of what I'll find when I do. Should I expect any piston damage? I have one completely broken valve and a bunch of bent valves.
View 12 RepliesVanos makes rattling sound. When the car is running it makes a noise in the vanos area as if the chain is loose its kind of like a metal sound the car don't idle roughly the rpm needle is steady don't seem like I am loosing power. do all of them make that noise or this is something i should be concerned with.
View 13 RepliesOn Feb 2015 I had this oil leak developing around the timing chain cover/ oil pressure plug and so i replaced the oil pressure sensor and clean the area and though problem solved...
Fast forward today and the weeping has redeveloped and has gotten larger than last time , its only a weeping issue no visible oil droplet leaks, anyways I took a mirror and when probing around and found the leak origin from the rusty looking timing chain tensioner...that what i think it is.
My question is should I just remove and replace the Rubber O-ring on it or should I just replace the entire timing tensioner unit with a new one, my original timing chain tensioner is sitting at 85k miles. The O-ring is free (i have a kit) and i can do it right now or a New Timing chain tensioner w/ new O-ring is around $20 bucks but i cannot verify the part number ...
I have an '09 Tiguan that recently began to start hard. Two days ago, it refused to start and hasn't started since. It cranks and cranks but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line at the first hard piece on the front side of the head. The primer pump when activated pours gas out of the line for about 5-8 seconds.
I also pulled the coil packs off and verified there is spark on them. I scanned the car with vcds and came up with nothing other than a couple voltage codes (battery is low at this point from cranking and is bulged and showing yellow in the spot window).
Tonight I borrowed the perfectly fine battery from my B6 and attempted to start it. No codes whatsoever and yet it still refused to run.
I read for a few second at start up ok . Have it checked : [URL] ...
I will be opening up the case in next few days. Chain still on holding by a few teeth. Metal wedge between teeth and chain.
I have a 2006 Honda CRV with 145,000 miles on it. It has been giving me warning lights for about 10 weeks. My mechanic discovered that it is burning oil, which he says all old cars do. But the lights continued. He put the computer on it and says that I need a new timing chain and it will cots $1,100.00. He also says he's not 100% sure that this will stop the lights. I don't want to sink that kind of money into the car if it won't correct the problem. The lights that come on are the check engine light, the VSA light and the triangle light. They do not come on all of the time. Maybe 3 time a week but they go off if I stop the car and re start it.
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