I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 Replies97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
View 1 RepliesI have noticed that when I turn my wheel on my Touareg, mostly sharp turn, I get a slipping/almost grinding noise. I am planning on driving cross country next week and this has me worried.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Dakota 5.9l r/t. Always started and ran fine. It sat most of the winter approx 2 months. Now will not start but cranks/turns. Has new battery, newer full tune up and tried starting fluid.
View 2 RepliesWhen cold the trans works fine for about 15 mins, then its like you put it in nuetral. No forward no reverse. A friend suggested changing filter/fluids so I did. Worked great for about 4 hrs then same thing. Leave it sit for a few hours and it works good for about 15 mins then nothing. Should I try another filter or something else?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 Dodge Dakota SLT with a manual transmission. When I press the clutch, it loudly squeals. It makes no noise when my foot is off the clutch either in gear or neutral. I made sure the master cylinder was full of fluid. I'm thinking it's the throw out bearing.
I'm out of town, and have to drive 8 hours to get home. Can I get it home, or should I have it fixed ASAP?
My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermitent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air in leakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
My 2003 dodge dakota with 6cyl fi stalls while doing 3 point turns or backing into parking spots. It also recently has a new problem. If I drive the truck for only a few minutes and turn it off I have a hard time getting it started again. It sounds like it wants to start but just barely can't.
View 1 RepliesMy neighbor has a 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L that I have been trying to get back in good reliable condition. It has the 3.9L V6, manual transmission, and is 2WD if that matters. It is a pretty basic truck and must have about the fewest options they had that year. It has air conditioning but no radio as it came this way from the factory.
It has an issue which I suspect is vacuum related. When you accelerate or climb a hill, the HVAC acts really crazy. The vents start blowing air and then stop. It doesn't do this on a flat surface but does it immediately when you accelerate or otherwise put the engine under greater load.
I have inspected all the vacuum lines and found nothing wrong. There have been some issues with mice building a nest in the air cleaner but I couldn't find anything chewed. Where to look?
I drive a 1997 dodge Dakota 5.2l 5 speed manual 4wd and recently it started making a really aggressive banging or popping noise while I was driving, it also made the truck bounce up and down a little bit and I could feel the shifter move up and down while this was happening. So I went underneath and discovered my transmission mount was out so I changed that and as well I changed a few u joints. One thing i noticed while I was replacing u joints was that when I had the front drive shaft off the whole problem was reduced to just a minor popping noise but once I slapped back on the front drive shaft it all came back. Another problem that is occurring because all of this is that when I tried to use the 4wd in 4 hi it just kicked it out of 4hi but in 4 lo it would stay in but all the problems were still there. The only time it doesn't do anything is when I am already rolling and I put the 4wd selector in neutral to disengage the drive shafts.
I have asked a few different people their opinions and I get different answers, someone thought it could be something to do with the steering shaft or intermediate steering shaft but I think that is not the correct diagnostic. Another one of my buddies suggested that it might be a stretched chain or gear in the transfer case that is causing it.
I have a 2005 dodge Dakota when I'm driving the steering wheel will shake randomly.This isn't happening constantly when driving and it will stop after I make a turn. In addition it will happen randomly regardless of what speed I'm driving. What's going on?
View 1 RepliesThe truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
View 2 RepliesI got new tires a few months ago and when the shop was putting them on they said the driver's side ball joints had a little wiggle in them. I've noticed it has gotten worse and I am going to change them prob next week. I am just going got do both sides while I have it torn apart. I have found some great info on how to do that. I also have noticed some ratcheting sounds from the drivers side hub when I start the truck and accelerate, and then it feels like there's a pop and the sounds goes away. Also if I flip on the 4x4 switch while there is the ratcheting sound it goes away. Is that just from a vacuum leak in the system? I don't know a whole lot about that, or what hoses are vacuum hoses etc.
I haven't really looked in the manual that much yet. My big question is this, I was driving down the freeway going about 70 when all of a sudden there was a gear grinding type sound, kinda like when you try to start a car that has already been started and the starter teeth make that grinding sound. Could it be that the axle has started to get some play from the ball joints getting worse and then it just reached the right RPM to cause a crazy vibration? Or could the 4x4 have a possible malfunction to where it tried to engage but the truck was going too fast? It hasn't happened again, but I have not gone 70 again either.
While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 1995 Buick regal gran sport with only 64,000 miles. It has been cutting of for 2 years now. It usually cuts off when we slow down. The RPM's will suddenly drop to zero. We have taken it to 3 different mechanics over the past 2 years and have put in thousands of dollars to fix it (more that it is worth). We always just throw it in neutral and it start back up and keep driving. We were sick of paying to get it NOT fixed so we decided throwing it in neutral is ok. Well now some days it won't start. It turns over but won't fire. Some days it will start. We took it in and got it "fixed" again, but it is still doing the same thing (some days it starts, some not). It still also has the problem of cutting off while we are driving too.
View 7 RepliesI have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
View 1 RepliesWhen I make low speed sharp turns, (like trying to make a U or K turn) the Treg kind of "lurches". Is this common? Is there a fix?
My Treg is a V8 PPS and is one of the first here in the US (took delivery 7/7/03).
Since I got the car i noticed on considerably sharp or normal RIGHT turns my brake fault goes psycho and says service manual yada yada, well my brakes work fine and so does the emergency brake, i also checked to see if i was low on brake fluid, but it was topped off and no noticeable change in fluid level... could this be problems with the brake line?
Its ONLY on RIGHT turns, never goes off on left turns... Its not creating any problems to my driving just distracting and annoying as hell, it goes off roughly 3-4 times I am driving (depending on how far I drive) ...