I have a 2005 dodge Dakota when I'm driving the steering wheel will shake randomly.This isn't happening constantly when driving and it will stop after I make a turn. In addition it will happen randomly regardless of what speed I'm driving. What's going on?
View 1 RepliesI had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
As I'm driving down the highway my steering wheel tends to shake a little bit. My tires are fine but are offly loud . They are balanced and all but just sound loud u can hear them rolling inside the cab sounds maybe like if I had mud tires but I don't they are all terrains. . I was told maybe the bearings but I don't know.
View 1 RepliesI have a 89 dodge dakota and it starts sometimes and other times it don't start at all. When it does start and runs for a few min it will randomly die and when I try to start it after it dies it wont start back up. Me and my dad just fixed the starter relay yesterday and it started every time after that, now today it wont start. New coil, fuel pump, and fuel filter are new.
View 5 RepliesSo I have come into ownership of a 2003 Prius and now I'm having issues with the power steering. I contacted Toyota and they told me the recal for the pinions was completed in 2012. Now own in the car I've noticed the steering wheel will start to violently shake and just last week while driving I got the warning triangle and the PS symbol and I lost all power steering. All this happened while driving on a highway. Toyota wanted to charge me 150 to diagnose the problem which I declined and took it to my well trusted mechanic. He told me the rac needs to replace. I've done a lot of research on this problem and have found many people complaining that even after having the recall done, they still had a problem and also were told the rac needs to be replaced.
View 9 RepliesAs I am driving the steering wheel will randomly lock for about 2 seconds. It has happened while changing lanes on the highway, also happening while making turns in intersections. Took it in to the dealer, all they did was clear the code and give it back to me. I have notified Hyundai Customer Care and they are supposed to contact me but right now the car is unsafe to drive.
View 50 RepliesI have a 1998 Buick Regal where the steering wheel randomly locks up while I am driving it. I usually stop the car and start it back up with success. The last time this happened was after I had the supercharge engine replaced. Once it locked up it I tried to start it up. The first time it did not restart, but the second attempt worked. I have taken it two really good mechanics and neither were able to diagnose the problem. I cannot remember if I am running the air conditioner when it happens. I know that sometimes I am. What could be causing my car to randomly lock up like this?
View 2 RepliesAbout 2 weeks ago, my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L, was running fine. The very next morning, it's 4.7l engine has a very obvious misfire situation where it's hesitating badly, especially under acceleration at lower rpms, with the shaking feeling in the steering wheel etc etc. I have Advanced Auto parts and 2 separate auto shops plug in their little boxes to find the problem codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on as soon as this issue began. The codes they got were consistent from place to place: 1. Misfire on cylinders 4 & 6, and 2. Random multiple misfire.
So I go and buy 2 brand new coils for cylinder 4 and 6, and 8 new champion plugs. I was in Florida for a week, so the truck was NOT driven at all after the day this problem began. So I replace all 8 plugs and install the 2 new coils, but it makes NO DIFFERENCE. It's still hesitating just like before. Today I take it to Goodyear to have them do an allegedly thorough evaluation. They use their little code box and they get the same codes as mentioned above about random multiple misfire and misfire on cup 4 and 6.
Then the mechanic takes the truck for a ride and experiences the same hesitation and shaking under acceleration. So he replaces both of the new coils I had installed with their coils and replaced the 2 new plugs, just to make sure there was no issue with these new parts. He takes it out and apparently plugs in a different computer that monitors all engine functions, including air/fuel mixture, spark etc. According to that computer, the truck is running properly(according to them), and he checks compression and says it's good. So what's wrong, and he said that my car's computer was reset so the check engine is no longer on(I am not clear the how's and whys of that part). But the important thing is that it's still running badly and they can't tell me why it's running badly!
The mechanic said maybe a lifter collapsed or there is sludge that's causing an issue, but no solid explanation. Supposedly the 4.7L Dodge engine has a sludge issue experienced by some owners, and the mechanic recommended replacing the oil every 1500 miles instead of 3000. By the way, I asked how much it would cost for Goodyear to check the lifters and check under the valve cover, but he said they don't do that.
My father-in-law sold me his Dodge Dakota, that he bought brand new in 2005. He says he never had any problems, but shortly after acquiring the truck, ALL of the dash lights began flashing... oil, CEL, ABS, brake, seatbelt.... all of them. And, when backing up, the reverse lights flash on and off. And ONE time, my headlights flashed. It doesn't seem to affect the way it drives, but some other strange things are happening as well. After this flashing continued for several days, the truck would shut off a few seconds after starting. This happened several times in a row, then it wouldn't even turn over. Nothing at all happened when I turned the key.
At this point, I had it towed to a dealer service center, where they got it started, and informed me that I had some loose ground wires, and needed a new battery. They thought they thought they had fixed it, but the very next day, the flashing started again. I returned the truck to the service center, where they got it to stop flashing, but didn't know why it was doing it.... So, now it has been going on for a long time.... the truck runs fine for a week or so, flashing dash lights and all, then I have the starting issue. But, if I let it sit for a day or two, all of a sudden it starts, and the cycle continues. Flashing lights, dies after starting, won't turn over, sits for a couple days, starts right up.
I bought this truck new. A few years ago while driving to work my headlights began to flicker. The problem became intermittent and didn't seem to affect my fog or high beam lights, just low beam. That night I tried to find the loose connection with no luck. The truck had 35000 on it then. To play it safe I went ahead and replaced the light switch. The next day the problem went away but came back about a year later and again the lights would flicker then stay on for a while and start again. The problem would disappear for a day or two and start again. I put this truck into two Dodge dealerships and they couldn't find anything. The problem went away for about three weeks and came back. This time I put the truck into a different non-Dodge repair place and after three days they couldn't find anything after pulling various connections apart but said the likely cause is probably one of two electronic parts.
One was about $300 and the other was just over $500 and they were nonrefundable because they were electronics. I went ahead and went the cheap way. After a little more then a year I noticed my headlights went out for about two seconds and came back on. It didn't do it anymore that night. Then about a week ago I got about a mile from my house going to work my headlights started flashing as if they were sending "morse code" in 5-10 second bursts. Again, hi beam and white fog lights are unaffected. I've since parked it. I've looked to see if there were any service bulletins, recalls, etc and found nothing. I'm finding it really hard to believe that my truck is the only one doing this.
The "Service 4 WD" indicator light came on and stayed on for about 5 miles this morning. I rarely use the 4WD function usually just using it on a dirt road to make sure it gets used. Would this indicate the need for a fluid change or is something more sinister afoot?
View 1 RepliesWhen the truck is in reverse, turn the wheel, it acts like is about to stall out. Sometimes just idling the engine at a stop and turn the wheel it acts likes its going to stall out.
View 4 RepliesI have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
View 5 RepliesI drive a 1997 dodge Dakota 5.2l 5 speed manual 4wd and recently it started making a really aggressive banging or popping noise while I was driving, it also made the truck bounce up and down a little bit and I could feel the shifter move up and down while this was happening. So I went underneath and discovered my transmission mount was out so I changed that and as well I changed a few u joints. One thing i noticed while I was replacing u joints was that when I had the front drive shaft off the whole problem was reduced to just a minor popping noise but once I slapped back on the front drive shaft it all came back. Another problem that is occurring because all of this is that when I tried to use the 4wd in 4 hi it just kicked it out of 4hi but in 4 lo it would stay in but all the problems were still there. The only time it doesn't do anything is when I am already rolling and I put the 4wd selector in neutral to disengage the drive shafts.
I have asked a few different people their opinions and I get different answers, someone thought it could be something to do with the steering shaft or intermediate steering shaft but I think that is not the correct diagnostic. Another one of my buddies suggested that it might be a stretched chain or gear in the transfer case that is causing it.
4 days ago I had a complete front brake job done on a 02 Dodge Dakota pickup. 80 miles on the new brakes I stuck in a traffic jam for over an hour. Once I stopped at the store I smelled burning brake odor on the passenger side right front wheel. Is there anything that should burn off of a new part of shall be concerned about this? New brakeshoes, rotors, calipers + brakefluid.
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 RepliesThe truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
View 2 RepliesWhile driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
I know there has been much talk about steering wheel shake between 70-80mph. I have the shakes at 70mph. But, I'm wondering why my service department (Boucher VW in WI) can't drive my car up to 70mph so they can feel the shake. The service manager said they absolutely cannot go over 65mph. So ofcourse they can't verify the shake and in turn won't balance my new front tires properly (VW replacements). Am I losing my mind here -- I can't have a car that doesn't shake at highway speeds? How to get them properly balanced through VW service?
View 4 RepliesI've got 66,000 miles on my R32 and I notice that on certain highway surfaces my steering wheel is beginning to vibrate at around 70mph.
View 8 Replies