At first it wouldnt start without me burying the throttle, and wouldnt stay running if i took my foot off the gas, i replaced the throttle position sensor and it starts with no issue, but now if i give it any gas, it shuts of, unless i let off the gas very slowly, what do i do?
View 7 RepliesYesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
View 4 Repliesi have a dodge Dakota and there is water that leaks into the front right passenger side when I run the AC...
View 3 RepliesMy 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesWhile driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
1999 Dodge Dakota
3.6 liter w/air conditioning
I'm pretty sure I made a mess of things. My Serpentine belt was all cracked and making noises while idling and driving. It was time to replace it. It's a long story, but my auto mechanic told me to drive my truck for a week and then give him a call. Well.... I didn't do that. My battery went dead and I charged it up and it lasted a month. Yesterday, it wouldn't start so I bought a Serpentine belt and installed it. As far as I know, I didn't damage anything while I was working on it.
The battery was still dead and I charged it, however, the key was turned on while I was charging it. I don't know how I did that, but I did.
The problem I'm having is that the engine is now idling at 2000 RPM. I scanned it and there are no codes or pending codes.
Today, I went out and drew a diagram of how the belt is routed and it's the same as the diagram under the hood. I had a friend take a look at it and he agrees that I put it on correctly.
I have a '99 Dakota 4 cylinder. Starts fine but as it warms up or if you gas it the idle stays high. The more you run it the higher it goes. Have replaced MAP senser, throttle position and air bypass with no effect.( map and high tps voltage only codes shown ) Vacuum problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 dakota. The truck wont turn over, headlights/doom lights nothing in side works. But when i open the door the glove boxes starts making a clicking noise ? it happened once before and once i pushed it down a little drive way everything turned back on ? What could cause this problem ?
View 3 RepliesAre the foot well lights supposed to stay on all the time ? Noticed they were on (dim) while driving.
View 7 RepliesSo I've been having a problem getting in and out of my drivers side door. It got really cold and snowy here and one day I went to close my door and it wouldn't stay latched. Figured maybe something froze and it just stuck but once I finally got it to close I couldn't get it to open again even once the weather stabilized.
Finally one day it just opened and has been fine ever since but now the door won't lock and the light on the bottom of the door stays on. I had this problem once before and it turned out to be a loose solder joint that I fixed.
My guess is I should just buy a new locking mechanism for that door. Is there something that can cause all the doors be somewhat finicky? All the doors seem to not lock on occasion or open when it appears to be unlocked.
Last thing, I tried to take out that bulb so I wouldn't kill the battery but I accidentally touched the two leeds and the fuse is fine but I think I fried a relay because my dome light no longer works and I can't get the sunroof to close. Looked it up and found something about an accessory relay.
I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
View 1 RepliesAbout a month ago I replaced my blower control module. I purchased the module from Rockauto. The first replacement module lasted about a month. I received a replacement because the blower stayed on high and wouldn't turn off. The second module only last one week, the blower once again only blows on high and won't shut off. Both replacement modules were made by Dorman. Could something be killing them or am I just getting crap parts?
View 5 Replies97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
View 1 RepliesMy dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
View 1 RepliesSo, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
View 14 RepliesI have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
View 6 RepliesHave a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Dakota. A couple of years ago I was driving along and the radio just cut out, with no problems prior. I didn't go over train tracks or anything that would jar it, etc. It continued to not work for the next 6-8 months or so, but would occasionally cut in and out. After a period of time the radio suddenly began working again. The radio continued to work for a year or more. A month ago, I'm driving down the road and it again, cuts out. But now I can somewhat hear the radio amid the static. The best way to describe it is what happens to the reception when traveling under high voltage wires. Antenna is secure.
View 1 Replies