Dodge - Dynasty :: 1992 - Sudden Power Loss?
Aug 7, 2011
This has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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Major screw up. Added steering fluid to brakes. Drove the car for about 300 miles. Car actually over-heated. Discovered the mistake after. Bleed brakes and added correct fluid. Not heating up now, but only bled the brakes one time. This is on my grandsons 91 Dynasty. Now worried the brakes are going to just go out.
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On a recent snowy drive from Chicago back home to Detroit, our 2013 Dodge Journey (6 cylinder AWD) started to make a screeching sound. My husband said it sounded like a belt. The sound would come and go. Due to the snow we were not able to go much over 45mph on the hwy. About 30 min after hearing the noise the first time, the car all of a sudden lost almost all acceleration. Not great when you are in the middle lane in snowy weather. We were able to get to the shoulder. After letting the car idle for a short time (3-4 min) in park and stepping on the gas peddle while in park, we took off again.
As long as we kept our speed 45-55mph for a short time the car would started to drive normal for 45-60 min, until it would happen again. One time we did not let the car rest for the normal 3-4 min and we were back on the shoulder again within a few min. The only warning light that came on once and then went out was the "check AWD" we have only driven the car locally a couple of times since, I was planning to take it to the Dodge dealership later this week. I fear this is a problem that is hard to duplicate, however this also concerns me as I normally drive a lot for work and often have several kids in my car on weekends.
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I have a 1991 Dodge Dynasty with a 3.3 Liter engine & the serpentine belt keeps coming off. I have replaced the belt,idler pulley & belt tensioner. When the road is wet or winter slush (it happened once in dry hot weather) the belt will ride off.
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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I just had my '12 GTI's 40,000 mile service done about 2 weeks ago. I put in a K&N air filter the day after the service. The only thing I noticed about the car after service was that I could smell coolant, they either spilled some or its burping some cause it was filled past the max fill line. Outside of that everything was copacetic until yesterday morning.
On my way to the gym with cruise control on ~74 mph on the highway I had sudden power loss, EPC light came on and power returned although felt reduced. When I left the gym it was off and I made it about a mile when under acceleration it hit at about 3k rpm, again sudden power loss and EPC light, power returned reduced. Drove about 5 miles to work and did a little googling with a million results.
When I left work to go home I made it about ten minutes into my drive before it happened. This time the CEL came on. I was able to drive home and back to work again this morning but I keep having power shutters followed by the EPC. I haven't had much time to dig into anything but I checked the connection of the coils and the intake connections with a flashlight at 4:30 this morning. Thinking it might be the MAF only because I recently installed the K&N and have read the oil can kill MAF's and I might stop to get a can of cleaner on my way home to try that route.
IF that doesn't work maybe I can get it on a Vag Com in the next couple days to get it sorted out.
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I have VW99 Passat 1.8L Turbo, automatic with 170K on it.
My car shop changed engine oil yesterday with 4 QTS of Mobile 5W40. Now, when I check my dipstick today, on level surface, the oil level is way too high on dipstick kink [the cross-hatched mark]. I run the engine, shut it off, and let it set for 3 min, but still the level is too high above the Mark. It wets the dipstick almost till the top of its Head.It was reading High when I first checked it, this morning, before starting my car.
It seems the oil is 'overfilled' or showing over filled; and the engine is about to throw it out from "filler cap" where Dipstick goes in the engine. I saw him using 4 cans 1 QTS oil, which I bought, into my car. They did change the "oil filter" at the same time?
Now, my car looses power while driving. When I accelerated from a stop/light, car slows down or limps. The car suffered a sudden loss of power.It runs awful for about a mile but smoothed out after acceleration.It feels like the car is running out of gas for a few seconds, then all of a sudden it kicks in. The car still drives ok though - No error messages/warnings on dash,CEL, no smoke, no hissing. I actually don't see engine oil thrown out or leaking though.
I don't know if the shop drained the "intercooler" while changing the oil, also I know nothing about its importance to my power loss issue. The net search manual/states "The engine oil, above the level, can be drawn into the crankcase ventilation system, and enter the atmosphere via the exhaust system". But it does says about damaging the engine/car.
Should I be worried about the damage to the engine?
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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Earlier this evening on the highway while in cruise control I had a strange issue. Going up a slight incline all of the sudden I lost power, my ESP and EPC lights came on, and the engine was running very strange.
It wasn't stuttering but was louder and vibrating a whole lot more than normal. I pulled over and shut the car off for a couple mins, started it up, everything was normal and continued. About an hour later the same thing happened and when I started up the car again the check engine light was on.
I had my room mate scan it when I got back and it came up with ECM and PCM processor errors. Not sure what kind of problems this would be. All the searches on cruise control didn't turn up anything like this. What the problem would be? The cars a turbo'd r32.
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Took my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
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Was sitting in my car on my lunch break playing the radio and had my seat heater on, and all of a sudden my radio kinda went staticy and died and my car completely died. Had to power it back down then back up to get it running, battery didn't show very low, but when I went into start mode (non accessory) it immediatly started the ICE and charged.
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I've been driving my V10 for 3 years now without a problem. The other day, while I was on the Highway in Italy driving at around 140KM/H, I suddenly had a loss of power. I could continue to drive the car, but I had no more tork... I stopped at the next gas station, turn the engine off, turned it on again, and the car drove normally again as before. About 200KM later the same happened again...
I went to check with the dealer - he hooked up the car to the computer - and told me that they had to change both turbos... What I find weird is that when I turn the car off and on again it works again. If the turbos would be defective, they wouldn't work again just by turning the car on and off. I think that it is more a problem with the turbo controller and if that's the case why change both turbo.
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Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
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It did this funny thing about 4-5 times over a span of about 24 hrs before dying and then won't start. It was like hitting the limit on a speed governed car.....sudden momentary loss of power..and it seemed to be when accelerating if that matters. The thing I'm sure of at this point is that the fuel pump is not coming on when the key is turned, I know that sound well, but also checked it at the external connector with a test light for thoroughness. I also found a blown fuse under the hood which coincided with a little smokey smell inside the car when the fuse was replaced and blew again.
There is no spark as well. My Haynes book says that the PCM is behind the passenger kick panel but I only see the eecv and it doesn't smell burnt. The IFS is good. There is power at the coil packs. Fuel pump relay fuse is good. Is it more likely the ccrm since it contains the fuel pump relay and PCM relay or could it still be the eecv? It feels like one part failed but is causing more than one "problem", no power to fuel pump and no spark.
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Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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I have passat 2007 2.0T , about 98000km. A few months ago, my vehicle randomly has hiccup with EPC light when I put on the pedal. Each times i put on the pedal my vehicle hiccups and EPC light on and all goes away when i put off my foot from the pedal. It happened randomly, so i went to vw dealership twice. They keep saying they could not find any problem. Coz as i said it happens randomly. I paid diagnostic fee but still the problem remains.
Unfortunately today i had the same issue hiccup like crazy with epc and engine lights. Also on the highway my baby 2 years old was with me when i drove, my vehicle lost power all the sudden, all most i involved an accident with following vehicle. I started the engine, vehicle moves but with the problem. I feel wheels do not spin properly or transmission randomly. What the problem is?
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Lately having the following issues with my Tig.
When starting up the engine on cold start (or after having the car sit for about 30 minutes) after about 10 - 20 seconds; pretty much right after first acceleration the car all of a sudden looses all power. RPM fall down even when accelerating. Accelerating more only let's the engine stall more.
5-10 seconds later the engine functions normal again.... What problem could that be ?
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