Dodge - Engines - Dakota :: Hesitates / Jumps / Lags When RPMs Dip Down In Overdrive
Dec 17, 2014
My 2004 Dodge Dakota V6 4X4 hesitates/jumps/lags (don't know what to call it, but it feels like something momentarily holds back the truck from behind) when I am starting up a hill. I start to loose speed/RPMs and give it a little gas, the RPMs don't change, then it happens. As soon as the transmission does down shift though, and the RPMs go up, it stops. This issue happens the most between about 40 to 50 mph and 1000 and 2000 RPMs. If I turn overdrive off then this problem does not occur even when the RPMs dip down below 2000, which in all fairness is not often. The truck has appx. 128,000 miles on it. What this could be?
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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I have a '99 Passat and this doesnt happen all the time, but - when I'm idle or accelerating after stopping at a stop sign/light, the car has a bad hesitation and it jumps, then finally goes with no problem. Sometimes it feels as if the car is going to stall out.
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Last night I was driving home... Cruise was set at 75mph. I noticed the RPMs jumping up and down slightly. I get paranoid. Anyways, its not that noticeable, but i posted a video... it seems to jump about 50-100 rpms each time.
Does rpms jump like that when set on cruise control? Ive never noticed it in any other car, and I am still getting used to this one so I want to make sure.
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I have a 2012 VW GTI w/ a manual trans. It's a year old and has 15k miles. I bought it new from a VW dealer. Under hard acceleration, the RPMs jump about 500 RPMs for only a second or two and then drop down to where they were previously. During that time, it feels like the transmission slips out of gear and that I have no power. I've noticed this is gears 2-6.
Also, whenever I stop the car and put it into first gear, there's a loud thump that I can both hear and feel coming through the steering wheel and shift knob. It's been doing this since I bought the car. I brought it to VW and they said it's probably just because the gears are still spinning when I put it into first. But it still happens if I wait several seconds to put it into first.
Is this a sign of a bad transmission or one on its way out?
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I just changed the engine in my 96 Honda civic, 1.6 base model. The change over went well and had no problems. When I have the car idle and it gets up to temp, the RPM's go from 2000 down to 500 then jumps to 2000 then down 500 again. When I put it into gear, drive or reverse, it stops jumping. What did I do wrong?
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent GT automatic (83,000 km) and I am having a problem with the gear shifting. It's happening more and more.
As I am driving I am pretty sure that it's changing to a higher gear but when I slow down it seems like its not shifting down at all. Coming off the Highway I have to slow down and when I speed back up it seems like its still in the high gear. The RPM's instantly jumps up.
The only way it fixes it self is when I pull over and shut off the car and then start it up again and I am fine. A friend at work said that I may have to have my transmission fluid checked and filled up.
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I have a 2012 Honda Accord EX with a manual trans. It's a fly-by-wire system. When accelerating and shifting, the tac momentarily jumps various hundreds of RPMs when the clutch is in. That used to mean you weren't coming off the gas when the clutch was in. I've been driving manual trans cars for 45 years. I know how to shift. But, it was a new car, so maybe... I paid close attention and was not screwing up the shifts. Apparently the computer doesn't realize the clutch is in and the gas pedal has been released. Is this normal for these cars? Is it a problem? (other than wasting a half thimble full of gas and over-reving the engine?)
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97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
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My dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
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So, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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I bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.
When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.
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I have a '99 Dodge Stratus V6 with 125,000 miles. When I turn on the car, I can hear a hum when idling. When I start driving, I cannot hear the hum anymore (but maybe it's drowned out by other noises the car makes, or just the engine). It gets higher pitched as it slows down to idle, and a bit lower pitched if I step on the gas lightly. It has been slowly getting louder over the last few months. What could this be due to?
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1999 Dodge Dakota
3.6 liter w/air conditioning
I'm pretty sure I made a mess of things. My Serpentine belt was all cracked and making noises while idling and driving. It was time to replace it. It's a long story, but my auto mechanic told me to drive my truck for a week and then give him a call. Well.... I didn't do that. My battery went dead and I charged it up and it lasted a month. Yesterday, it wouldn't start so I bought a Serpentine belt and installed it. As far as I know, I didn't damage anything while I was working on it.
The battery was still dead and I charged it, however, the key was turned on while I was charging it. I don't know how I did that, but I did.
The problem I'm having is that the engine is now idling at 2000 RPM. I scanned it and there are no codes or pending codes.
Today, I went out and drew a diagram of how the belt is routed and it's the same as the diagram under the hood. I had a friend take a look at it and he agrees that I put it on correctly.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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Have a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
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I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota. A couple of years ago I was driving along and the radio just cut out, with no problems prior. I didn't go over train tracks or anything that would jar it, etc. It continued to not work for the next 6-8 months or so, but would occasionally cut in and out. After a period of time the radio suddenly began working again. The radio continued to work for a year or more. A month ago, I'm driving down the road and it again, cuts out. But now I can somewhat hear the radio amid the static. The best way to describe it is what happens to the reception when traveling under high voltage wires. Antenna is secure.
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I have a 2002 Dakota 5.9l r/t. Always started and ran fine. It sat most of the winter approx 2 months. Now will not start but cranks/turns. Has new battery, newer full tune up and tried starting fluid.
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