Dodge - Journey :: Transmission Won't Go Above 2nd Gear - Chug Between 20 To 30 Mph
Jun 30, 2012
my husband and i own a 2009 dodge journey. the last couple of days when i would go to and from work i would feel the car chug between 20-30 mph kind of like when someone who is really bad at driving a manual would miss a gear, but then it would get to 30 mph and it would be fine. well, yesterday my husband and my son went to the store and when he got back he told me i wouldn't be able to go to work unless i had a ride because i guess our car wouldn't go above 2nd gear. IT is an automatic, but you can just feel when the gears shift, you know? anyway, he had to coast all the way home and every time he would get to an uphill spot he would not be able to get the car to go over 20-35 mph and it would screech kind of. he said it sounded like the car was going to blow up or something. so now we have no vehicle and no clue what is wrong, we are just hoping we don't have to replace the transmission because that is super costly!
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We purchased a used 2010 Journey in May. In early June, we found that when running errands in the heat, at about the third errand the car won't start. It will kind of chug chug, turns over, but doesn't catch. We took it in once and they rewired the starter. (someone had wired with with a piece of extension cord?). Then, a couple weeks later took it in for a new starter. Still does it. BUT, I think I figured out that when you wiggle the gear shift (Automatic) while in Park, it will start. It may take a few times, but it started for me twice this way.
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The transmission feels like it's "slipping" on our 2010 Journey. It doesn't seem to follow any particular driving situations, or conditions (like when it's cold or hot or up-hill or straight running); it just happens occasionally. Of course, we've barely busted the 100K mile warranty, so i figure it's time for something to break.
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When the transmission in my 2009 Dodge Journey suffered a heart attack two days ago, the Dodge mechanic told me there was WATER in the AWD unit! I was rendered speechless - I have never driven it in water. I bought it used a year ago. Carfax was clean. He says the car wouldn't have lasted that long with water in the AWD unit. Does this make any sense at all?
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I have a 2010 Dodge Journey which my husband and I purchased a year ago used. Over the course of the year we have been dealing with brake problems. No less than a week after we purchased it, we had it at the dealer for pulsation from the brakes and they turned the front rotors. Still didn't resolve the problem completely and was back again and they turned the rear rotors . 4 months later we're back with the pulsation and I had my front rotors turned again. Wasn't quite happy with that as I still felt the pulsation just not as bad. We decided to just let them be and wait.
Well the pulsation got worse over time and a month ago went to Pep Boys and they replaced my Front pads and rotors, they inspected all four prior to that and told me they all looked fine. But I insisted that the pulsation was pretty bad that even felt it on the steering wheel. They replaced the front ones. Next day I was back because the pulsation was still there, and they machined the rotors incase they were already defective. So long story short what else can be causing this. My tie rod ends do not look to be severely worn to possibly cause this. Getting really tired of this car and all its little quirks and problems honestly.
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I have a 2009 dodge journey. Besides the brakes it has been a great car. A few months ago my car started dinging. The notification chime (the noise it makes when say your gas light goes on) doesn't stop. It "dings" about every 5 seconds. There is no consistency on when it starts. No constant. The only constant about this problem is, it stops when the wheels stop moving. Not step on the brake or gas, the car has to be at a complete stop.
It starts immediately when the car starts to roll. It will do it every time I drive for weeks, then for no reason will stop and not do it for a month. I am afraid to take my car on long trips for the fear of it starting to "ding". I have tried and tried to get it diagnosed but no one can fix it or even find a reason it would be doing it. There is no notification light so they don't know where to start. How to cut the wire that is hooked up to this chime ...
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My 2009 Dodge Journey is great for the first 2,500 miles after each oil change, then the oil just seems to vanish. The dealership has been tracking this for a couple of cycles... the oil level is fine when they check it every 500 miles, but somewhere between 2,500 and 3,000 miles about 2 quarts disappear. No apparent leaks or puddles.
So... now the Dodge dealer is saying they want to tear down the motor to "find out what's wrong," but they can't even tell me what they're looking for. What they should be looking for?Also, they are not fessing-up if they have seen the same problem in other vehicles, but it's hard to imagine they randomly got permission to do this.
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2010 Dodge Journey SXT AWD.
I was rear-ended this evening, and I'm leaving for a road trip at 6AM Friday. The damage seems minor, but my right tailpipe (this car has two) is now pressed against the bumper and I feel a vibration when driving. It's not bad at 65MPH, but at low speeds it feels like there's a mild puttering. Is this something I need to repair immediately (will call my dealership in the morning either way) or can I ignore it until Monday when I'm home?
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On a recent snowy drive from Chicago back home to Detroit, our 2013 Dodge Journey (6 cylinder AWD) started to make a screeching sound. My husband said it sounded like a belt. The sound would come and go. Due to the snow we were not able to go much over 45mph on the hwy. About 30 min after hearing the noise the first time, the car all of a sudden lost almost all acceleration. Not great when you are in the middle lane in snowy weather. We were able to get to the shoulder. After letting the car idle for a short time (3-4 min) in park and stepping on the gas peddle while in park, we took off again.
As long as we kept our speed 45-55mph for a short time the car would started to drive normal for 45-60 min, until it would happen again. One time we did not let the car rest for the normal 3-4 min and we were back on the shoulder again within a few min. The only warning light that came on once and then went out was the "check AWD" we have only driven the car locally a couple of times since, I was planning to take it to the Dodge dealership later this week. I fear this is a problem that is hard to duplicate, however this also concerns me as I normally drive a lot for work and often have several kids in my car on weekends.
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My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8cyl., auto transmission with about 211K miles on it.For several months now the car has problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. It goes from first to second without trouble, but to get to third I have to over-rev the engine and then let off the gas and then give it a small bit of extra juice for it to catch the third gear. In the past it seemed to happen only AFTER the engine got hot. Interestingly for the last couple of months it shifted just fine, maybe because it's very cold outside.
Today, the transmission gave me a ton of problems and I was afraid it would give up on me before getting home. It just wouldn't shift into 3rd gear at all. I limped the last 5 miles home in 2nd gear. Checked fluid and that was fine. I added a 1/2 quart. After a few hours I drove the car for short distances at various speeds to force the transmission to shift. At first it seemed to be OK again, but as soon as the engine got hot I ran into the same problem again.
I last changed the fluid 3K miles ago, but before that I drove it for 120K miles without a change. What to look for now or is this a job for a specialist? A neighbor of mine suggested to pour a cup of acetone down the transmission and this would "clean up" and cut through the gum and varnish. I am not so sure this is a good idea, but wonder what it could do to seals and other rubber-type things inside the transmission.
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My 2003 Dodge Dakota does not shift properly sometimes going into second gear and it only happens in second gear. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift into third. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an off ramp. Truck will not shift properly when going up grade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts whether in cruise control or not in cruise control, going upgrade. Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no luck. Not once has the ENGINE LIGHT ever come on.
So a lot of the comments that were presented to me I have done. Here is a list:
Changed govner senors and solenoid. Did not work.
Checked for exhaust leaks and other leaks. No leaks.
Checked all vaccuums. No problems there.
Had engine checked and dyno tested. No problems there.
Had transmission rebuilt. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Had new transmission put in. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Also, sometimes when I put the truck in reverse, it seems to about to stall, but it doesn't. It also does it sometimes when I put the truck in drive it seems that it wants to stall.
I just recently learned that my truck has a Transmission computer module, Transfer case computer module and of course the main computer. Is there a way to test those modules out?
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When I start the truck in cold weather, the transmission doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear. Some time it take driving it a 1/8 of a mile before it shifts.
What is wrong / need replaced ? I was told to shift it thru all the gears before I move it to warm up the transmission fluid ? I'm thinking some sensor needs replace ???
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I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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It happened about 6 months ago, when I was getting ready to leave work then all of a sudden, the R wouldn't start. Flipped the key on and off in the ignition a few time and it started. had a weird idle, bouncing all around at about 1000rpm. Driving it home, the car wouldn't hold an idle and i had to play with gas the whole way home. Once home i could not get her to start again. Checked for spark, had spark but change all 6 plugs and coils anyways cause the service was due.
I scanned the car with a scanner just to check the codes and all i got was a pending crankshaft sensor code. Replaced the sensor cause it wasn't too expensive and i didn't want it to be an issue. I have also notice at the time that the fuel pump wouldn't initially prime when opening the driver door. Got a new job, and didn't have the time to mess with the R, but now I am trying to get her running again.
With the fuel pump not priming I immediately went to think of fuel, and replaced the fuel pump relay with a brand new dealer one. I haven't retested for air/fuel/spark since I just started to re-work on it. But last time I did have spark as when I sprayed some starter fluid, she chugged a little. Also now, when i disconnect and reconnect the battery i hear the initial prime, but when the key is turned to the on position, I don't notice a secondary charge.
I checked the fuel line before the rail and there is some type of pressure(I don't have the tool to check precise pressure). I also scan the car now with just a code reader and I come up with nothing current or pending. I am in the process of trying to borrow a vagcom to read further into the car.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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I have a 2005 Exploer Sport Trac with 236K on it
recently changed all plugs & wires as well as the coil pack to stop a sputter in the motor. it worked. now, very periodically and only for a split second i will loose all rpm and then back up again to normal. I was told that the computer may be going but i've plugged it in and it wont turn on a reader. other than that one hickup she runs like a dream now.
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