My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
View 7 RepliesSo, I picked up my new car today, a 2012 obsidian ISF with 53,000. I'm driving it back from Texas to Georgia in the morning but after driving it for the first 100 miles I notice a pull to the left under hard acceleration and to the right when I let off. I've never driven an F before and I'm coming out of an IS350. I haven't had a chance to check tire pressures yet but I notice the right rear tire is a Dunlop and all other 3 are Bridgestones. Could this be the cause?
View 12 RepliesOn a recent snowy drive from Chicago back home to Detroit, our 2013 Dodge Journey (6 cylinder AWD) started to make a screeching sound. My husband said it sounded like a belt. The sound would come and go. Due to the snow we were not able to go much over 45mph on the hwy. About 30 min after hearing the noise the first time, the car all of a sudden lost almost all acceleration. Not great when you are in the middle lane in snowy weather. We were able to get to the shoulder. After letting the car idle for a short time (3-4 min) in park and stepping on the gas peddle while in park, we took off again.
As long as we kept our speed 45-55mph for a short time the car would started to drive normal for 45-60 min, until it would happen again. One time we did not let the car rest for the normal 3-4 min and we were back on the shoulder again within a few min. The only warning light that came on once and then went out was the "check AWD" we have only driven the car locally a couple of times since, I was planning to take it to the Dodge dealership later this week. I fear this is a problem that is hard to duplicate, however this also concerns me as I normally drive a lot for work and often have several kids in my car on weekends.
1992 Dodge Caravan 4cyl manual (last of the breed)Damn thing still runs, until yesterday.
Merging onto interstate, moderately hard acceleration. Sudden reduction in power, engine running rough, won't maintain 60mph in 5th, steering wheel shakes, engine bucks. Made it about 10 mi. Symptoms got worse, pulled off next exit and drove a bit looking for a mechanic.
Same symptoms, lower speed, lower gear. Had to nurse it up even mild hills in first. Got bad enough that I pulled into a gas station and got a tow home.
Check engine light is not on. No warning lights. Did not start to heat up until the very end.
Eats oil, but I just topped it up that morning. Also drinks coolant, also topped up.Oil is not overfull. Did not drive through water or rain.Timing belt was changed about 10,000 miles ago.
The question:If I haven't already destroyed the engine, is it likely that I will kill it if I drive it to the shop (a few miles)?Or should I have it towed there?(Or should I just have it junked.)
Context:I had a hard time warming up to this car when we bought it new. It was, of course, my wife's car until she got a new one and I inherited it. (Why does that always happen?) I've had it now for over half of my married life. It's six years younger than my younger daughter, sort of a neglected and abused third child. But it just won't die.
Driving to lunch today I pulled out on the highway and accelerated hard. The Sonata didnt want to shift higher than about 4th gear (auto trans w/ the "slap stick" that comes standard. I laid off the gas and the car seemed to be running fine at that point. 1/2 mile down the road the car just died. I pulled over the car restarted fine. At this point it didnt want to shift well and died a couple times. I stopped for lunch. Afterwards I took it easy, car acted fine. Outside of work I accelerated hard again and the same thing started again.
View 10 Replies11' Non-Turbo 2.4 with 145k Full Synthetic every 5k (Done me or provided to the quicky lube) Around 80K about 2 weeks after taking it in for an oil change my wife heard a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Pulled over and there wasn't a drop of oil on the stick. It started with about a qt every 1000 miles or so, now it's to the point that I have to put a qt in about every 3 days (1-200 miles)
We cannot see oil anywhere, last I checked the plugs had carbon build up but were not wet. (Recently) We also hear a ticking sound during hard acceleration and a good bit of black smoke coming from the exhaust.
We still owe 5k on it, it's our first new car and I'm terrified the thing is going to blow up before I pay it off. Tonight as I was about to get in the car with her I heard the clicking sound again but this time it was full (just added some yesterday). I have compression and leak down testers, know a little bit but I am nowhere near a "mechanic".
I'm getting a p0087 on a hard acceleration new low pressure pump new fuel filters run the pinpoint test in the pced is fine and passes the high pressure test with the ids? Not sure where to go from here?
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2011 F350 chassis cab with no bed installed. Have a few questions regarding the exhaust system. When I inspected and drove it noticed some black smoke when under hard acceleration, nothing major though. Other that that the truck drove great. Have not got the truck home yet, a friend is going to pick it up and deliver it in a few days. Based on the visible smoke I was suspicious of the exhaust system but I have no knowledge of what the system is suppose to look like. My experience with diesels and for that matter gas engines is mostly from the days of mechanical fuel injected diesels (70's era farm tractors mostly) and carberated gas engines.
My friend stopped by a local Ford dealer and crawled around under a new 2015 Chassis cab to look and compare to this 2011. It appears that the SCR and DPF are not installed on this truck. Where they would normally be is a section of pipe with a section about 2 feet long that is 6 or 8 inches in diameter. Looking at some threads on this site I'm guessing this is a muffler that has been added since the truck is not loud. There is no DEF tank and all the wiring for sensors that would be attached to the exhaust system appear to be tied off to the frame and not connected to anything. The dealer didn't know the history beyond he purchased it on an auto auction and he installed a new rear end in it. Car Fax shows nothing of concern.
My question is should I now be concerned since have determined much of the exhaust system has been removed? I've read some threads and it appears that the only way this can be done and have the engine run well without any codes etc is if the removal is done with some sort of tune. Is there any way to determine who has done the tune? Will it be an issue when take to a Ford dealer for service?
I know if wanted to put the system back to stock would be large dollars, as long as the system runs well and is reliable I will be happy. The anticipated use of the truck will be to pull gooseneck trailer and will probably not see more than 1000 miles a year towing and 5 to 10k total in a year. I drive with a very light foot seldom ever pressing any vehicle to its limits. If still have the truck in 10 years when retire or at least cut back on my work then it may see more miles.
I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger that pulls hard to the right. It has always pulled to the right a little, but recently it has been worse. About a year and a half ago I replaced all four shocks, the two front tires, and had all four wheels aligned, but this did not stop the slight pull to the right. I get it back from the mechanic yesterday, and he tells me that there is a little bit of wire showing on the inside or the front drivers side tire.Is there some kind of joint or something in the steering that may be worn out that needs to be replaced? If so, how much does something like this cost to replace?I've been slowly replacing everything on my truck that needs to be replaced as I get the money, but it seems that lately it's just got way more expensive. I know that it's not a cheap fix for something like this, but I just wish it wouldn't happen all at once
View 2 RepliesHad mechanic check suspension components, alignment is fine, nothing looks damage or needs to be replaced. Tires are 35 inch and practically brand-new...
View 3 RepliesOK so when I'm driving on freeways or highways and I have to break hard for some reason my steering wheel always pulls in some direction I don't want it to go. forcing me to hold it straight I've lived with this problem for a while but I'm doing 500 miles trips this weekend in the car and am concerned about if I had to brake at higher speeds etc., what might cause my steering wheel to pull left and right... 2003 nissan maxima ...
View 7 RepliesI just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
View 7 RepliesMy subaru pulls very hard to the right, so hard that I can not go any faster than second gear (It feels to un-safe) I hear a like metal on metal kind of noise, almost like a ding or a bell sound. It wobbles very bad also. It feels like my tire is about to fall off! I tried to wiggle or move the tires to see if they would move and they did not (Advise from a mechanically inclined friend) I was driving on a muddy road when it happened, and I bottomed out at least once. When you look under the car you can see exposed metal, it is dirty under their obviously and the metal that we saw was not dirty so maybe something slipped out of place or fell off? The bar that connects to the wheel has a rubber protectant thing against it or covering it and that is where the exposed metal was.
View 2 RepliesWhat could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
View 4 RepliesIf I am going over 40 mph and I have to brake hard my truck pulls really hard to the right. I mean so hard it will take me off the road. My truck is a 2004 f250 with 147,000 miles.
In the last six months I have replaced both hubs, rotors and brakes. I really drive like an old man so I don't know how long I have had this issue. Just someone pulled in front of me on the freeway and I had to brake hard and I found this out.
I have checked both front capilers and brake lines and those are fine. I have brand new tires on it. I really have no clue what is going on. I have pulled the brakes off three times and checked everything out and it looks good. If slowly push the brakes everything is great, it is only when I have to really slam on them.
So my 01 has been parked in the garage for about 2 months. Normally on battery tender but it accidentally got unplugged and I didn't realize til yesterday when I went to start it. So I got the battery charged up and put air in my rear drivers tire since every time it sits it goes flat. Well I did all this I so I could take it to get tires today.
Driving to work and its shaking pretty bad at highway speed. Don't recall it doing this yesterday. Never really did this before either. The truck also pulls hard to the right. Its done this for a while so I'm not sure if it's just the tires or needs alignment or something else. Or all of the above.
I'm mainly concerned with why it was shaking. The front tires don't look low however I will check the pressure on my lunch hour today.
My passenger rear door handle opens at almost end of the pull if that makes sense. This is different than the others. Is there a way to adjust it?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesI've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?