Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Pulls Very Hard In 1st But Feels Sluggish In Second Gear
Apr 13, 2015
What could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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Scanned my APR chipped 2001 1.8T for a CEL and found the following codes.
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-00 - -
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch: Driver Side (E150)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
I don't the think last two codes are related. I did a thorough search on Vortex and there doesn't seem to be any posts on this combo of codes, the first 3 that is. There are a few posts about the N249 and Fuel trim codes which may seem to be relate to vac leaks around the N249.
In terms of symptoms, I haven't noticed anything new. The car does seem sluggish on first and second and gear but it's been like that for months if not a year but no codes. I've had rough cold starts which has also been around for a very long time and I attributed this to the secondary air pump since the dealer found nothing wrong. The only real problem I've had for about a year is the car seems to have a global power loss at times where the entire cluster would start blink and beeping, usually after I use the power windows when the lights are on. All interior and exterior lights would also dim when this happens. Sometimes, the entire car would even shut off when I'm stopped. I've taken it to the dealer multiple times and no one has been able to figure it out. They think it's a look wire somewhere. Anyways, it comes and goes.
I do have an APR chip and it's been in for probably 8 years. So, basically no new symptoms really and all the codes are new. I've erased them and rescanned after driving and they all came back.
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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My subaru pulls very hard to the right, so hard that I can not go any faster than second gear (It feels to un-safe) I hear a like metal on metal kind of noise, almost like a ding or a bell sound. It wobbles very bad also. It feels like my tire is about to fall off! I tried to wiggle or move the tires to see if they would move and they did not (Advise from a mechanically inclined friend) I was driving on a muddy road when it happened, and I bottomed out at least once. When you look under the car you can see exposed metal, it is dirty under their obviously and the metal that we saw was not dirty so maybe something slipped out of place or fell off? The bar that connects to the wheel has a rubber protectant thing against it or covering it and that is where the exposed metal was.
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When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
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I have 2002 1.8t jetta 5spd with 200k KM, last winter it was difficult getting into gear when it was cold. the fluid has never been changed, so that might be the issue.
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Drove my 02 VW golf GL to the airport, it sat there for 4 days, drove it back home. Next day I noticed that my 1st gear and reverse are very hard to get into. So I kept messing around with it and noticed that if I tried to put it slowly into first gear that there was no way in hell it would go, it felt like the gear was closed.
But if I put it into second gear and push it from second gear into first gear it goes back into first gear about 70% of the time. And it will also go into first gear if I push my stick down as if I'm attempting to go into reverse, and slowly move it into 1st gear.
The reverse is also very hard to get into it feels just like the 1st gear does when you try to do it slowly, it's like it's closed off/blocked. Latest work that was done to the car, replaced the clutch about 4-5 months ago.
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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Car in question is my 2003 Jetta 1.8t with the 09A 5 Speed Automatic. For the past 2 or 3 months these have been the symptoms: 1st to 2nd gear, very hard shift depending on RPM's (Higher the RPM's the harder the shift) 2nd to 3rd gear, not really hard but it kinda 'flares' the gearbut still shifts. All other gears are fine, although if you accelerate hard out of 4th it will have a little bit of a hard shift. I'm thinking either solenoids, or the speed sensor?
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01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
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so on the way home from the golf course, I caught a little bit of fluttering in 3rd and 4th gear pulls. Time to upgrade the dv I guess. I was under the impression that we wouldn't have to do this though.
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Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
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2000 jetta vr6 145k.
So when I bought this car it was not driving and hasn't been driving for a year or so, needed time chains and the whole 9 yards. Did that, everything is up and running as well as new brakes all around, snow tires until I can afford some all season.
While driving, only in gear, the car pulls to the left. Even with a touch of the gas pedal it's pulling left. As soon as I let off its going right. If I coast in neutral it holds straight like an arrow. I have replaced the bushings for the dogbone and trans mount with polyurethane thinking with the high mileage it would be the culprit. The control arm bushings seem to be ok, neither side has any play, no wheel bearing play, no tie rod play....so I'm stumped.
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When you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
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i have a 2014 Santa Fe 2.0t awd. When I first bought it it was getting 320-340 miles a tank after having it for 6 months now we are down to 250-260. The engine feels sluggish, however no codes, no change in driving habits.
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weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
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I have a 03 golf 2.0 with 82k on it. I am having a really weird issue with car pulling left under load and then going back to the right when letting off the gas. It's more noticeable at higher speeds....over 40mph or so. I did a quick check under the car at ball joints, cv joints and can't really see anything that would make this issue. Would a trans mount or motor mount cause this? Is there something I am missing?
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I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
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Having clutch issues? I have just put 10k miles on my JSW and the clutch feels like it slipping in 1st gear when heavier load(uphill ETC) is present its even worse. We have never drove it hard pretty much cream puff.
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