so on the way home from the golf course, I caught a little bit of fluttering in 3rd and 4th gear pulls. Time to upgrade the dv I guess. I was under the impression that we wouldn't have to do this though.
View 8 RepliesNew to the board- sold my b6 passat for '12 GTI manual.
Its been a few years since i've owned a stick so I'm not sure if this noise is normal or just because the car as 100 miles on it OR just because I'm a freak when it comes to hearing every little noise.
But when i'm say in 5th or 6th gear on the highway and give it some gas I hears some noise like a fluttering vibration noise for a second or two and then it goes away? It sounds like its coming from right underneath me. Its not a huge deal but on my first brand new car, I'd rather just have someone tell me its normal or if it needs to be fixed or a bolt tightened or something.
What could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
View 4 RepliesMy Vibe (manual trans) started making a weird chattering/fluttering noise in 4th gear a couple of weeks ago, so I took it in (mileage around 160k). The noise was similar to the one it was making two years ago when the transmission tore itself to shreds and the shop did a full rebuild, so I was somewhat concerned about taking it in before I was stranded on the road somewhere. It took several days to find the problem, but apparently a balance shaft moved and chipped some teeth, and that somehow affected the trans in 3rd and 4th gears.
Now when they were explaining this I was trying to calm a screaming baby, so I wasn't really paying attention to the explanation, but I wanted to verify that this could happen and that I really do need yet another rebuild, this time with a new balance shaft. He's cutting me a break (this rebuild is significantly cheaper than the last one).
All this said, I really do trust my mechanic, but am really considering letting go of this curse of a car. I've now paid for it's value 1.5 times over the last two years. While the mechanic assures me this trans is bulletproof, two incidents in as many years makes me think otherwise. A quick google search doesn't allay my fears either...
I have a 2011 GTI, with an apr chip and apr intake stage 1. Car is brand new 4000 miles
When hitting boost in 3rd-6th gear i hear a fluttering sound between 3500rpm and 5000rpm after 5000rpm the sound either dissipates or is drowned out by the motor.
I've done a lot of research around this sound and i havent been able to find a certain answer, it could be compression surge (i wouldn't see why), a leaky DV ( also cant see why because the 2011 has the new revision D piston actuated DV), A fluttering wastegate.
Sage 1 apr chip and stage 1 apr intake...
Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
Just had a new set of tires and a front end alignment done on my 2008 Santa Fe with 86,000 miles. Now when it is shifting into 4th or 5th gear it feels like your hitting a patch of Ice. The Truck veers off to the right for a quick second. It just seems like you can feel it in the left wheel. Other than that the truck does not pull and drives straight.
View 5 Replies2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
View 7 RepliesMy subaru pulls very hard to the right, so hard that I can not go any faster than second gear (It feels to un-safe) I hear a like metal on metal kind of noise, almost like a ding or a bell sound. It wobbles very bad also. It feels like my tire is about to fall off! I tried to wiggle or move the tires to see if they would move and they did not (Advise from a mechanically inclined friend) I was driving on a muddy road when it happened, and I bottomed out at least once. When you look under the car you can see exposed metal, it is dirty under their obviously and the metal that we saw was not dirty so maybe something slipped out of place or fell off? The bar that connects to the wheel has a rubber protectant thing against it or covering it and that is where the exposed metal was.
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesAfter they flashed the TCM (vin 34000). Did not notice this before flash. Mild acceleration in a continuing curve to the right as the tranny shifts to 5th wheel pulls sharp to the right. Like a strong twitch. Also does it in left turn but not as strong. Didn't really bother me (driving wife nuts though, and its her car) in the dry, but Sat. nite on snow/ice scared bejaysus outa me. Felt like I was going to spin. If I lift before shift to 5th it doesn't happen. "Twitch" is about like you would to to miss something in the road. Maybe not that strong. Car thinks continuing radius curve is a decreasing radius turn. Not good. Haven't found the right road to try it under hard acceleration
As an aside, Contis worn out evenly at 10,000 miles. Granted, I did remove a few pieces from them this summer, but overall tread is gone.No binding feeling on dry pavement. It does "crab", or bind at slow speeds tight turns on snow/ice, but so does my Yukon XL in 4wd Auto mode.Have to visit dealer anyway. Service fault workshop light came on a few times. Restart and it went away. And dash wood cracked.
2000 jetta vr6 145k.
So when I bought this car it was not driving and hasn't been driving for a year or so, needed time chains and the whole 9 yards. Did that, everything is up and running as well as new brakes all around, snow tires until I can afford some all season.
While driving, only in gear, the car pulls to the left. Even with a touch of the gas pedal it's pulling left. As soon as I let off its going right. If I coast in neutral it holds straight like an arrow. I have replaced the bushings for the dogbone and trans mount with polyurethane thinking with the high mileage it would be the culprit. The control arm bushings seem to be ok, neither side has any play, no wheel bearing play, no tie rod play....so I'm stumped.
I just got my Golf 7 (1.4 TSI 122PS 7Speed Dry DSG). I love the car but I have an issue making my driving a lot more stressful in tight traffic and parking. I just wanted to ask if this is an issue specific to my car or something happens to all Golfs.
When trying to take off with a very little throttle pressure, car starts to pull away very slowly at the beginning and then it jumps forward in a much higher speed even though I do not increase the throttle pressure. It even happens if I lift my foot from the throttle before jump happens. Because of this I cannot make very slow maneuvers because I cannot simply go very slowly and consistently. I am a complete rookie when it comes to cars but it feels like turbo coming into play after a certain engine rpm causing this. For the record this happens both in D or R.
I know I can creep using the brake but I heard that is very bad for dsg so I am trying not to do that. Also I cannot do that while Auto hold is on and I don't want to turn it off since it is a very handy feature in stop & go traffic which is usual in where I live. Also my steering wheel does not center itself automatically so I am doing it manually.
I have a 03 golf 2.0 with 82k on it. I am having a really weird issue with car pulling left under load and then going back to the right when letting off the gas. It's more noticeable at higher speeds....over 40mph or so. I did a quick check under the car at ball joints, cv joints and can't really see anything that would make this issue. Would a trans mount or motor mount cause this? Is there something I am missing?
View 2 Replies99 volkswagen passat 1.8T ... The turbo have like a fluttering noise when i let off, I just installed a APR chip. Is it a dieverter valve or something.
View 2 RepliesI noticed that driving my LS last weekend that the right headlight was fluttering going down the road. It did not go off but it looked like a loose connection. When I arrived at the golf course, someone told me that he noticed that the right headlight was out. Now I got home and I have checked the headlight and nothing seams to be a problem. Both low beam and high beams go off and on with no problem. My question is : is the headlight bulb going out or do I have a connection problem? I hate to take off the tire and inner wheel cover to change the bulb unless I need to. Second question: If I have to change the bulb what is the best brand to use?
View 14 RepliesI just bought a forge 007 and an apr chip. When i installed the DV i ran it in reverse and am getting a fluttering noise.... i'm running the yellow spring which should be right for a chipped car.
View 6 RepliesWhenever I have my fan on speed 1 or 2, it makes this fluttering noise that comes from the passenger floor cabinet. I stuck my head under there while it was on and was able to confirm that it's coming from the fan that's located under the glove box.
I'm thinking about taking the fan out to dissemble it and try to figure out what's making the noise. It almost sounds like there's a leaf or something stuck inside rubbing against the fan.
I've got a 99 1.8t, and every once in awhile when the turbo starts spooling I hear a fluttering, not sure how to describe it. sort of like when your valves run low on oil and you can hear em tick? Like something is fluttering in the turbo when its spooling, instead of just a steady sucking of air.
View 2 Replies1999 ford f150 makes a fluttering spun when I accelerate.
View 2 Replies