Dodge - Ram :: 1998 - Idling Roughly / Exhaust Leak
Aug 6, 2014
I recently pulled the head gaskets on my '98 RAM 1500's 360 Magnum and after two weeks of waiting on the machine shop I've put everything back in and to torque specs. After a battle with the starter ending in pulling all the shims I painstakingly marked I got it to fire up. But, it is now idling roughly. I burped the coolant system, checked the oil level and removed some as it was slightly overfilled.
I also had an exhaust leak so I checked torque specs on the exhaust manifold. All of this worked marginally but when I felt comfortable moving the vehicle I found that in gear with the throttle open it would sputter, idling it moves along just fine. The engine is pulling air weakly through the filter and I noticed it is blowing a little white smoke when given gas. My OBD2 reader doesn't pull up any codes, I'm at my wits end.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
Started smelling exhaust in the cab while idling, and at startup. After further investigating found out the EGR inlet tube is leaking at the flex joint. So my question is , is there anything that will jump at me while I'm doing this tube replacement.
View 3 Replies
1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
View 8 Replies
Two related problems:
1) Our 2008 dodge grand caravan's recycled cabin air/exterior air flipper is broken. You know, makes the clicking clunking sound until it gives up?
2) Unfortunately this has made the exhaust smell that much worse.
Usually when you drive above 35mph you don't catch engine fumes, but when its anything less you fear you're poisoning your family into early cancer. Obviously we have a leak in the HVAC system somewhere and anytime we take it somewhere for service on something else they just shrug their shoulders.
How to locate the leak so I can keep the engine compartment out of our a/c?
View 1 Replies
Ok where to start. I have a 98 ford explorer with a 4.0l OHV engine close to 280,000km. There is a leak coming from somewhere around the oil filter but there seems to be oil coming from more then one spot. Second issue is when a idle the voltage seems to die a bit until I hit the gas and it returns to normal but this issue seems intermediate at times. And I have just replaced the oil filter for the second time no second gasket.
Also I am having a tranny shift flare problem from second to third and when it is under alot of pressure in the bush going up hills it just kicks out of gear and roles back. And another issue is seems like maybe my power steering pump may be bad when I am idiling it seems to pulsate and when I change the position of the steering wheel the pulasting will go away or not be as bad.
View 14 Replies
It's been a long time since I have posted here mainly because my truck was wearing a bow tie for awhile. But my wife was nice enough to tell me the Bow Tie wearing truck was making a funny noise on New Years Day (seems a small drum corps took up residence in the oil pan). So anyhow now I am back in a real truck . My new to me 1998 F150 5.4 Liter ran fine until yesterday. It started idling rough and almost stalling at red lights. about halfway home the CEL light came on and is throwing a P0171 code.
So far I have checked for vacuum leaks including all the elbows on the PCV system' tried the spray test with a can of flammable break fluid and a can of starting fluid (man I love the smell of that stuff) could not find a leak. Cleaned the MAF sensor and the K&N air filter (not a fan of these) IAC seems to be working. Only thing I know that is leaking for sure is the driver side exhaust after the cat. But that is the wrong bank if I am correct on which bank is which.
So why only one bank running lean and why does it act like it is only firing on 4 cylinders?
View 14 Replies
I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
View 1 Replies
I just bought my first Prius, a used 2009. So far I like it very much. I just have one concern: The engine seems to run roughly, especially when it's idling and when it goes up to about 45mph. I'm not sure if this is normal for a hybrid and I'm just not used to it or if it indicates a problem. The problem persists even after it's warmed up.
View 17 Replies
I posted earlier about my car idling roughly, the dealership is now saying it may be my engine or transmission mounts. I have a 2002 Passat wagon with 41500 miles.
View 2 Replies
I recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2004 Prius with 196k on it. Over the past 3 months, I have had the P0505 CEL come on about 3 times. After looking over everything and not noticing it running differently, I have cleared the code and kept going. The CEL stays off for a 3-4 weeks, then comes back on.
Yesterday, the light came on and was accompanied by a rougher idle. I checked the code and the only one shown is P0505 reads as Idle Air Control System. I removed the airbox and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray and cleaned the throttle body valve with throttle body cleaner spray. They were both dirty, but didn't seem too bad.
View 3 Replies
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 Replies
I came out to my car to go to work and it sounds like a Mack truck idling roughly. I'm trying to get a hold of my mechanic to confirm the problem before calling the police and AAA and my insurance. He hasn't called back, so I'm dead in the water sitting in my car.
View 19 Replies
I have 2006 Subaru Forester that is idling roughly. 90k – oil change every 3k miles. Per diagnostic codes I learned that the 2nd cylinder was misfiring. I replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires, and an airflow sensor. Yet, my car still idles rough. The check engine light is solid and the cruise control is flashing. The idling problem only happens when stopped… after I get high rpms there is no shaking. I had someone disconnect the battery and reset the computer and the lights stayed off for about a week and idling was fine. Week later – the problem returned. I think this an electrical problem, but not sure if mechanical.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 86k miles. Sometimes, like once every 2-3 days, when I start the car, nothing appears in the box that says "P, R, N, D". The transmission also acts very strange. I often don't notice the blank box when I start the car, but immediately notice it when I put it in reverse or drive. There is an awful "clunk" from the transmission, and the car drives like I'm driving it through 6 inches of mud. I stop, put it in park, restart the car, the problem is gone.
The dealer said if it is a problem with the shift lever, that is not covered under the drivetrain warranty. I really don't have the money for the dealer to do expensive diagnostics/repair.
View 5 Replies
We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 Replies
In the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
View 3 Replies
I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
View 7 Replies
I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
View 2 Replies
I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
View 3 Replies
