I posted earlier about my car idling roughly, the dealership is now saying it may be my engine or transmission mounts. I have a 2002 Passat wagon with 41500 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 86k miles. Sometimes, like once every 2-3 days, when I start the car, nothing appears in the box that says "P, R, N, D". The transmission also acts very strange. I often don't notice the blank box when I start the car, but immediately notice it when I put it in reverse or drive. There is an awful "clunk" from the transmission, and the car drives like I'm driving it through 6 inches of mud. I stop, put it in park, restart the car, the problem is gone.
The dealer said if it is a problem with the shift lever, that is not covered under the drivetrain warranty. I really don't have the money for the dealer to do expensive diagnostics/repair.
I just bought my first Prius, a used 2009. So far I like it very much. I just have one concern: The engine seems to run roughly, especially when it's idling and when it goes up to about 45mph. I'm not sure if this is normal for a hybrid and I'm just not used to it or if it indicates a problem. The problem persists even after it's warmed up.
View 17 RepliesI am working on a friend's '92 Celica GTS Manual trans, and the massive vibration at idle is telling me its time for engine/trans mounts.
After some searching online..I finally found a place that shows all of the mounts. HERE
In that diagram, which of the mounts/dampers should I replace, and which of them never wear and can be left alone? Or, should I go all out and replace all of the rubber?
I have heard of going with poly mounts, and filling the old mounts with polyurethane caulk from HD, and all of that jazz - I'm not really interested in that - I want to stay OEM here.
I have a 08 2.0T sedan with 97K that I have been chasing a "shuttering" feeling in the front end when I go over harsh bumps like railroad tracks and frost heaves that we get on roads here in NE.
At this point the front suspension has had a lot of improvements done and problem still exits.
Front suspension work over last 6 months:
- New LCA Bushings (solid rubber style rear and Whiteline front)
- Koni FSD Shocks
- VW DG Sport Springs
- 034 Density upper strut mounts
- Meyle HD Sway Bar Link
- ECS Sub Frame Bolt Kit
After all this there is actually an increase in this shuttering feeling most likely due to a firmer suspension now with new springs.
The car drive fantastic, the feeling that there is something loose up front and the shuttering feeling when hitting harsh bumps is diving me crazy.
In addition, I drove a local VwVortexer's 06 Passat that is riding low on coilovers and it did not have this same shuttering from the front so pretty sure what is going on in my car is not normal.
Completely went through front suspension last night and tripled checked that everything is tight and secure!
Also, have upgraded sub frame bolts with ECS kit and checked all the bolts to make sure they are tight and all is good.
Since after all this work and substantial $$$ investment the problem is still there, should I be looking at motor mounts ?
The engine/tranny is no where near secure sitting in the existing mounts, have noticed two things that have been this way for quite awhile.
If parking brake is not on when tightening or breaking loose lug nuts car has a lot of rock back and forth and you can see engine moving a lot if hood open.
Last night I put a large screw driver between right side mount where piece from engine goes into frame mount and I can move engine side to side with minimal effort about 1 1/2" or more.
One more thing, when coming to a slow stop at the last downshift just before you stop I get a light clunk from left side somewhere and if you slow down from 50 mph or so to 25 to 30 mph and then put gas back on you get a left side clunk too but not always. Does it sound like bad mounts?
I noticed my 3.6L 4Motion is making a hard thump/ticking sound when the car accelerates from stop, and also on turns. I'm going to schedule service for the car next week and I wanted to get a little educated insight. This is strange because I just had two of my cats replaced last week.
View 4 RepliesI recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Prius with 196k on it. Over the past 3 months, I have had the P0505 CEL come on about 3 times. After looking over everything and not noticing it running differently, I have cleared the code and kept going. The CEL stays off for a 3-4 weeks, then comes back on.
Yesterday, the light came on and was accompanied by a rougher idle. I checked the code and the only one shown is P0505 reads as Idle Air Control System. I removed the airbox and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray and cleaned the throttle body valve with throttle body cleaner spray. They were both dirty, but didn't seem too bad.
I recently pulled the head gaskets on my '98 RAM 1500's 360 Magnum and after two weeks of waiting on the machine shop I've put everything back in and to torque specs. After a battle with the starter ending in pulling all the shims I painstakingly marked I got it to fire up. But, it is now idling roughly. I burped the coolant system, checked the oil level and removed some as it was slightly overfilled.
I also had an exhaust leak so I checked torque specs on the exhaust manifold. All of this worked marginally but when I felt comfortable moving the vehicle I found that in gear with the throttle open it would sputter, idling it moves along just fine. The engine is pulling air weakly through the filter and I noticed it is blowing a little white smoke when given gas. My OBD2 reader doesn't pull up any codes, I'm at my wits end.
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 RepliesI came out to my car to go to work and it sounds like a Mack truck idling roughly. I'm trying to get a hold of my mechanic to confirm the problem before calling the police and AAA and my insurance. He hasn't called back, so I'm dead in the water sitting in my car.
View 19 RepliesI have 2006 Subaru Forester that is idling roughly. 90k – oil change every 3k miles. Per diagnostic codes I learned that the 2nd cylinder was misfiring. I replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires, and an airflow sensor. Yet, my car still idles rough. The check engine light is solid and the cruise control is flashing. The idling problem only happens when stopped… after I get high rpms there is no shaking. I had someone disconnect the battery and reset the computer and the lights stayed off for about a week and idling was fine. Week later – the problem returned. I think this an electrical problem, but not sure if mechanical.
View 19 RepliesWe have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 RepliesIn the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
View 1 RepliesSo ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
View 3 RepliesI cannot locate a picture of where the manual 4wd shifter mounts up to the transmission.
I am finishing up 4wd'ing my F550, but am not exactly sure how the shifter bolts up. Can someone take their boot and bezel off and take a couple photos of how the shifter mounts to the 5R100W by any chanc?
Well, i have almost had it with this car. When the car is idling in park... ti sounds like the transmission is chattering,... then, once i put it in gear it gets louder. like a medium fast "clinking" noise. ALSO, when rolling at a slow speed and i barely hit the gas the transmission (or maybe engine) makes a zipping chattery noise.
View 2 Replies2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
View 4 RepliesI had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
View 2 RepliesJust noticed the other day the Passat was idling significantly rougher than usual, most of the time it's smooth as butter but not so much lately. It's not rough like a bad misfire, just not very smooth anymore. This could be indicative of the dreaded oil-pump bolt failure rearing it's ugly head (finally)?
View 1 Replies