Celica :: 92 GTS Vibrating At Idle - Engine / Transmission Mounts
Feb 21, 2013
I am working on a friend's '92 Celica GTS Manual trans, and the massive vibration at idle is telling me its time for engine/trans mounts.
After some searching online..I finally found a place that shows all of the mounts. HERE
In that diagram, which of the mounts/dampers should I replace, and which of them never wear and can be left alone? Or, should I go all out and replace all of the rubber?
I have heard of going with poly mounts, and filling the old mounts with polyurethane caulk from HD, and all of that jazz - I'm not really interested in that - I want to stay OEM here.
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I posted earlier about my car idling roughly, the dealership is now saying it may be my engine or transmission mounts. I have a 2002 Passat wagon with 41500 miles.
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The freeways and roads in general around where I live are garbage, rough with a lot of potholes.
Having issues with headliner or seat belt mounts on the B pillar vibrating? Or the passenger seat rattling?
Most of mine happens when I'm on the freeway in 6th gear around 65-70mph (where I usually sit) or when the RPMs are between 2700-3k
The headliner is particularly bad in various spots near the front sun visors.
The seat belt mounts vibrate at random times. I've tried clicking it into different positions to see if that work.
My passenger seat will rattle after going over bumps at low speed. If I stop the car and move the seat up or back one click it seems to go away, it's like it's being shaken loose.
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I have a 2002 Camry SE (V6) with approx. 180K miles. The Engine mounts were shot so I decided to change them. I am a reasonably qualified mechanic (FAA Aircraft Mechanic) and perform most my work on my cars so didn't think this would be a big deal.
My procedure was to jack up front & put frame on jack stands then removed both wheels. Then with hydraulic jack and blocks under oil pan I started by removing all or the three lower engine mount hold down nuts (3 on bottom, 1 on top of each. NOTE: I changed the dogbone first which took 5 minutes.
I then jacked up engine about two inches or so and pulled out each old mount, then lowered engine back down making sure everything lined up as best I could. Then finished by tightening all of the nuts. Done. ....or so I thought.
When I went to start, the engine cranked but with a an unusual vibration and generally rough idle, more noisey than usual. When I drive it shift fine and everything works, just unusual vibration and noisey inside car.
I also used my BOSCH code checker and got ZERO CODES.
What is even more unusual is the engine when you are outside the car listening sounds fine. Just sitting inside do I sense the unusual vibration and noisy idle.
I checked for loose vacuum hoses, anything obviously pulled loose, etc and found nothing.
Again the car started and idled fine before the engine mount change now starts kind of rough and is noisy [inside car] but quiet outside.
nothing really changed except the moving of the engine block up and down to get the old mounts out.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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130k miles, 4 cyl camry LE 2006, im very good about my oil changes
The car gets a good amount of vibration while it idles, you can sort of notice it with the dashboard vibrating, I've known it was happening but didn't seem terrible so I hadn't put much thought into it. It also goes away when i get moving, but will sometimes get worse again at stop lights.
Today I was jumping a friends car (2009 mercury mariner), having both hoods open at the same time made the amount my engine was vibrating pretty noticeable compared to hers. Totally different cars, i know, but still seemed like it was a bit much.
My question is what areas should i be looking into as the possible culprit? What could possibly cause an engine to have more vibration as it ages? Just to clarify, it doesn't seem super intense, like about to tear itself off the frame, but just enough so that you would notice it.
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I recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
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I upgraded from a 2009 ES 350 to my 2013 GS 350 recently. One huge difference I noticed is the sound of the car while in idle. My ES was so quiet that sometimes it was hard to tell if it was on or off when parked. My GS has an irritating vibration noise from the outside that is very noticeable when I'm parked. I can hear it when my windows are down and I'm sitting in the driver's seat. It's not loud, so to speak, just incredibly irritating to the point where the vibration hurts your ears. When I'm in my garage and the sound is a bit more isolated, it sounds the loudest from the driver-side mid-to-back section of the car. However, the car itself doesn't feel like it's vibrating.
I also noticed at times when I start my car, my engine gets loud and the RPM shoots up to a bit past 2 (while still idle), then quiets down and evens out. Is this normal for this gen GS? The only reason I ask is because neither of things happened on my ES, so either I'm not used to it, or something is wrong. Driving/ performance seems normal. I do understand this engine should be a bit noisier than my ES and I am enjoying the extra HP and AWD ... I have a full, unlimited mileage warranty so getting anything fixed won't be an issue. My main concern is wasting my time going all the way to the dealership and embarrassing myself if it's completely normal.
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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When I turn the A/C on in my 1994 celica gt 2.2 engine the idle drops and will die,
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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I recently bought a 92 Celica gt (5s-fe). The engine feels like its misfiring and wont idle on its own.
I've done all the normal maintenance to it and the spark plugs all show normal signs of wear. I haven't verified fuel and spark yet. Check out the video below. The piece of cardboard is to keep the throttle partially open. Also, the exhaust is broken off at the flex pipe so excuse the awesome sound ...
[URL] ....
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I am feeling more vibration at idle than I believe I've felt in the past. I can feel it in the seat more than I remember before. Granted, it's not like the car is shaking or anything, but I can feel it more than I think I should. Could this be the motor mounts?
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I had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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Alright so I got a 92 toyota Celica 2.2 5SFE recently and guy before did a head gasket.. well i started to work on the car. fix things here and there. well one issue I cam across was low compression.. 170 170 30 90.. so i was like ok the guy didnt do it right.. took it apart. found out valves were stuck open. So i ordered a remmaned cylinder head to put in and new head gasket set etc.. replaced all gaskets that came with it..
Also put in remanned fuel injectors due to one leaking so i just replaced em all. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, followed the oem manual word for word to install and remove and timing is right. But I got it all back together and ran great. until my tps went out(replacing that soon). Compression is now 180 across the board.
Now I got a knocking issue, Its quite apparent at idle/ low rpm.. solid sound, goes away at higher rpms, gets plenty of oil to cylinder head, started bout 150 miles after finishing. Im not sure where to start.
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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I have recently had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced.
Before the replacement, the car would shake quite noticeably when the engine was being started (maybe even shake 'violently'). I thought this was normal until I had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced. Now when I start the engine the SC430 doesn't shake at all. The difference is profound.
Just a head's up. I'm not sure what the implications are of running with bad motor mounts for a long time, but I decided to get it done because my car would shake when idle and at stop lights.
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