Dodge - Ram1500 :: Truck Idles But Remains In Gear
Mar 10, 2012
I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.2L V8 (and 46RH AT), with 147,000 miles. Here's what I've been noticing over the past few months: when the engine is up to full operating temperature, and the truck is in gear but idling, the oil pressure (according to the oil pressure gauge) gets very low, and in fact, the needle often "bottoms out", going to a reading of "0", and the "dummy light" comes on. When this happens, there's no change whatsoever in how the engine is running; it runs perfectly fine (which is why I haven't bothered to fix it). Also, as soon as the engine is given a little throttle, the pressure reading goes back up and behaves normally under driving conditions (unless at idle). As mentioned, this only happens when the engine is completely warmed up.
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I check the oil regularly, and it is always within the acceptable range.
My 2000 dodge ram 1500 Laramie Won't start, Here's what happened. The truck started just fine the day before, No problem. But when i went to start it today it continuously cranked and when releasing the key It shook as if it tried to start and started to smoke a bit from the engine. I popped the hood and looked around, Seeing smoke coming from the engine, there was also smoke Inside the air cleaner box. What this could be, And how to fix it? This is a big problem as I'm moving in two days!!
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My Ram truck has started randomly dis-engaging from gear while driving. I've never noticed it when the trans. is cold. It doesn't slip; when it works its fine. When it drops out of gear, its instant and acts like its in neutral. It will re-engage, after a number of seconds goes by and I feather the throttle a bit. It started when I was at highway speed, but now will do it in about any gear. Is this a common problem, and could it be electrical? I've replaced the filter, checked the fluid (looks fine), and pulled a cooler line and it has plenty of pressure. The truck also has an enormous trans. cooler added to it, and it has 155,000 miles. 1996 Ram 1500 4x4, 360 auto transmission...
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I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
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Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
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Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram p/u 4x4 1500 Sport model truck. Last winter I noticed it would come out of 4wd into 2wd while driving. I kept having to put it back into gear, but it would continue to slip out. Then later, when it sat still I tried the other 4x4 gears and it wouldn't move at all into low 4. So I took my foot and shoved it forward and it finally moved into low 4. What is going on with this? It was working just fine and suddenly it started doing this. I have low mileage and the truck looks like new; only 47k miles. Shouldn't be acting up on this low a mileage.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The starter does not crank at all. I put the key in and turn it and nothing, just a click. I have replaced the starter/solenoid with a new one and I have charged the battery and it is good (battery is only 8 months old). It still does not crank, nothing.
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I've got a 99 dodge ram 1500 sport, with nearly 250k miles logged, and it refused to start up this morning.
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It ran fine this past friday, aside from a horrible squealing noise it made. It has power, its getting fuel, and it coughs and sputters like it wants to start, but it refuses. How do I get this thing to come back to life?
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 V6 that has been squeaking for a long time now, slowly getting louder and more obnoxious. The belt and belt tensioner were bad so I replaced them, but the squeak was still there. Then I replaced the tensioner pulley, followed by the alternator, but it still squeaks. If the belt is removed and the engine run, there is no squeak. Its very hard to localize where it is coming from - as best I could tell it was coming from the tensioner or the alternator (they are next to each other), but with both of them replaced and nothing else nearby I am at a loss. Looking through some other discussion boards seems like another common problem is the fan clutch. Mine actually went bad 4-5 years ago so I replaced it back then, but this squeak is different than what it was doing back then, so I'm hesitant to replace that again.
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I have a new battery in my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500. The battery becomes dead if the car sits for 2-3 days.The engine easily starts when the battery is jumped. The charge remains for 2-3 days, but then depletes, andthe battery must be jumped again. How do I diagnose what circuit is depleting the battery?
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I have a 2005 Dodge ram 1500 Hemi that has had starting issues for over a year. After sitting for over 30 minutes, it will crank like it is flooded. If I lightly put pressure on the accelerator, it fires right up. It happens with regular or mid grade gas....but seems to happen more when at 1/4 tank or less. It starts normal first thing in the morning or after several hours of sitting. Now along with this, when I turn the key in the ignition, there will be a dead pause, then start cranking. Fuel pump and ignition switch?
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I have a 1994 dodge ram reg cab short bed 2 wheel dr with a 5.2. When i first start the truck in the morning or after it has set for 5 or 6 hours it spits sputters and pops and backfires tries to die and is undrivable for about 15 mins. then its like you flip a switch and it just smooths out and runs great you can cut it off for 2 or 3 hours and it still starts and runs fine! Then the real funny part is after it smoothes out it runs great until i turn left it dies i can turn right and it's fine going around a sharp curve or if i turn hard into a parking place it will just die! i have replaced the pickup coil, dis cap, rotor button, wires and wrought them the specified way, plugs gaped at .035, not platinum, coolant temp sensor, and throttle positon sensor! there is no check engine light on the stored codes are 12 and 37. i am at a loss. This truck has no OBD so i cant see what is happing when it's acting up! i hope this is enough info.
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I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L truck. Originally, there was a squealing sound (which has now turned into chirping) coming from the engine, so I replaced the serpentine belt. That didn't do it. So upon research online, I preceded to check all the pulley wheels for wobble, grinding sounds. The only thing I found of concern was the a/c compressor pulley. It was making a slight grinding sound, so I thought maybe I'll buy a shorter serpentine to bypass the a/c altogether. That didn't fix it.
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The chirping only happens when I put the truck in drive or reverse, and increases when I accelerate. Sometimes as I'm driving it'll stop momentarily until I either take my foot off the gas or accelerate even more. I've checked everything I could inside the engine compartment, without taking anything apart. I've had my wife put the truck in gear so that I can try to locate the sound, but I've had no luck. I don't want to take the truck in, until I can identify the problem, and maybe even fix it myself.
When my truck is cold, I have to turn the key two or three times to get it to start. By that I mean I turn the key, turn it all the way off, and turn it again until the engine starts. The first two times, it doesn't crank or make any noise at all, but the radio and dashboard lights come on. I got the truck in May and it hasn't done this all summer.Also, if it idles at a red light when it is cold, it will stop running and I have the same problem as above when I try to re-start it.There is also a smell of burning rubber in the cab once it has warmed up.
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I have a 1988 Dodge pickup 1500 with a 5,9 gas engine. It used to pop right over all the time. Now, in the morning, I have to crank it forever until it starts, and if it sits for 1 hour or more, same thing (have to crank for a long time). It is my understanding there is a valve called a one day valve that holds pressure on the gas line. Is it possible this valve is not working properly? And if so, do I have to replace fuel pump to fix problem? once started it starts up with no problem until it sits for hour or more then hard to start.
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Truck is a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. When I press down on the gas pedal and accelerate, an audible squeaking noise is made in the rear of the truck. It sounds like it is coming from somewhere near the rear axle or wheels. The sound is a high pitched metallic squeak, as if metal parts are rubbing against each other. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating. While accelerating, if i momentarily take my foot off the gas pedal, the noise stops. Also, once a constant steady speed has been reached the noise stops. Also, the truck makes the same noise when accelerating in reverse.
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I have a 1994 Dodge RAM 1500, v8, 5.2 liter truck. A few months ago, I noticed that when it's at normal temperature, it would not crank unless I floored the accelerator. Once it cranked, it was hard to keep it idling at a constant RPM. I have to rev it up a lot to finally get it to idle by itself or to put it in Drive to move. Once it's moving, everything seems pretty good. If I stop and change gears (Park, for example), it will stall. I have also noticed this happening if I'm in Park, then turn on the air conditioning putting a load on the engine, it will stall.
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When the engine is cold (sitting for several hours), it cranks fine and runs fine.
I have replaced the idle air control (IAC) valve, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the Crank sensor between the motor and the transmission (what a pain to replace), the O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter, and the computer (with a used one from a salvage yard. And, I had a mechanic check out the distributor cap and it's internals and do whatever he did.
I did read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor may be an issue?
I own a 2004 Dodge Ram automatic transmission with tow package. I use the truck fro getting around and moving light loads from here to there, nothing heavy. About two months ago I started to notice a whining sound coming from the rear. I did not pay too much attention to it at first, but it has gotten louder lately. It is most prevalent at speeds above 35 mph. I have tires that are 1 year old and the transmission is two years old. Mechanics have told me the truck is fine but I am concerned! Should I seek a second opinion or am I just being an overprotective of my truck...
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Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
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OK, this happened again. Driving along, try to change from drive to sport, gear lever button (silver on side of gear lever) remains in the depressed position. Can't get our of Drive or Neutral. If you switch the car off it will never start again!! I call McDonald Automotive in Denver and then drive all the way from Breckenridge with the car stuck in Drive making sure I would never get into a position where I would have to reverse. Also the key is locked into the ignition. McDonald has a loaner waiting for me. However, this seems like it could potentially be a dangerous flaw in the gear lever mechanism. It is very unnerving, almost like you cannot stop the car under certain circumstances (even though you can put your brakes on and stop and you can put it in Neutral, but you cannot switch the car off).
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My 99 V6 with Tip just started to malfunction this past weekend. By malfunction, I mean when I shift over into Tip mode, the display remains on automatic and even shifting up and down will not change the tranny gear.
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I was driving with the cruise on and shifted into Tip mode to slow down for a toll booth ( slow to 25 and not stop all the way). When I got through the booth, I hit resume on the cruise forgetting I had shifted into tip and the car revved back up to 65 mph in 3rd gear for about 5 seconds ( I had the stereo cranking and couldn't hear the engine)before I realized what I had done.
I tried to upshift in Tip but it wouldn't let me so I had to go back to full auto setting where it works fine.
Is it possible to burn out a fuse or circuit of some kind by doing a dipshizit maneuver like that? The car runs great otherwise and still is getting low to mid 20's mpg in spite of the ethanol crap.
BTW, just had the computer reflashed last week after putting a new battery in because the Throttle Body was not working properly.