Dodge - Dakota :: 1988 - Stumbles At WOT / Truck Only Idles
Jun 3, 2011
I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
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Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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I have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
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we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.2L V8 (and 46RH AT), with 147,000 miles. Here's what I've been noticing over the past few months: when the engine is up to full operating temperature, and the truck is in gear but idling, the oil pressure (according to the oil pressure gauge) gets very low, and in fact, the needle often "bottoms out", going to a reading of "0", and the "dummy light" comes on. When this happens, there's no change whatsoever in how the engine is running; it runs perfectly fine (which is why I haven't bothered to fix it). Also, as soon as the engine is given a little throttle, the pressure reading goes back up and behaves normally under driving conditions (unless at idle). As mentioned, this only happens when the engine is completely warmed up.
I check the oil regularly, and it is always within the acceptable range.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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1989 Chevy Corsica has lower than spec fuel pressure, but exhibits no problems under heavy acceleration at highway speeds (passing), so I'm not sure it's a problem (yet). When cold, seems fine. As warms up, starts to surge somewhat when driving around 30MPH and idles rough and stumbles when starting from a dead stop. No blink codes (except code 12) and no check engine light. I suspect a sensor, but which one(s)? Low fuel pressure or bad sensor?
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This is a carburetor model of the 1988 Honda accord I fixed the vacuum leak, and it is not gummed up from ethenal I still have Idle issue where the car wants to die unless I keep it revved up and when up put it in drive it wants to stall out but i can keep it going by letting of the gas and them giving it more gas. Does the carbonated model have the Idle air control valve and a fast idle valve or is that just on the fuel injection engines. Because every one on line claims this is the areas to look at but I can not find them on my 88 Honda where they explain to find these valves.
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1990 chevy silverado 4x4... My truck stumbles when you start it and within 5 seconds or so clears up and runs smooth.. I changed the fuel filter , still the same result.
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97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
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My dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
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So, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
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1999 Dodge Dakota
3.6 liter w/air conditioning
I'm pretty sure I made a mess of things. My Serpentine belt was all cracked and making noises while idling and driving. It was time to replace it. It's a long story, but my auto mechanic told me to drive my truck for a week and then give him a call. Well.... I didn't do that. My battery went dead and I charged it up and it lasted a month. Yesterday, it wouldn't start so I bought a Serpentine belt and installed it. As far as I know, I didn't damage anything while I was working on it.
The battery was still dead and I charged it, however, the key was turned on while I was charging it. I don't know how I did that, but I did.
The problem I'm having is that the engine is now idling at 2000 RPM. I scanned it and there are no codes or pending codes.
Today, I went out and drew a diagram of how the belt is routed and it's the same as the diagram under the hood. I had a friend take a look at it and he agrees that I put it on correctly.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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Have a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
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I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota. A couple of years ago I was driving along and the radio just cut out, with no problems prior. I didn't go over train tracks or anything that would jar it, etc. It continued to not work for the next 6-8 months or so, but would occasionally cut in and out. After a period of time the radio suddenly began working again. The radio continued to work for a year or more. A month ago, I'm driving down the road and it again, cuts out. But now I can somewhat hear the radio amid the static. The best way to describe it is what happens to the reception when traveling under high voltage wires. Antenna is secure.
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I have a 2002 Dakota 5.9l r/t. Always started and ran fine. It sat most of the winter approx 2 months. Now will not start but cranks/turns. Has new battery, newer full tune up and tried starting fluid.
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