I have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
View 1 RepliesMy 04 Dakota 4x4 makes a clunking noise when
1) in 4-wheel drive going forward while turning either direction (but not while going straight) and
2) in 4-wheel drive in reverse (straight or turning). It does not do it in 2-wheel drive under any circumstances.
I suspect the front drive shaft U-joints since it only happens in 4-wheel drive. Rear drive shaft U-joints or front CV joints would be a possibility but I would think they would cause a noise in both 2 and 4-wheel drive and in either direction equally.
This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
View 9 RepliesI have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
View 4 RepliesI have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
View 1 Replieswe had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Dodge Dakota does not shift properly sometimes going into second gear and it only happens in second gear. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift into third. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an off ramp. Truck will not shift properly when going up grade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts whether in cruise control or not in cruise control, going upgrade. Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no luck. Not once has the ENGINE LIGHT ever come on.
So a lot of the comments that were presented to me I have done. Here is a list:
Changed govner senors and solenoid. Did not work.
Checked for exhaust leaks and other leaks. No leaks.
Checked all vaccuums. No problems there.
Had engine checked and dyno tested. No problems there.
Had transmission rebuilt. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Had new transmission put in. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Also, sometimes when I put the truck in reverse, it seems to about to stall, but it doesn't. It also does it sometimes when I put the truck in drive it seems that it wants to stall.
I just recently learned that my truck has a Transmission computer module, Transfer case computer module and of course the main computer. Is there a way to test those modules out?
I noticed a humming like noise when my transmission is engaged. I looked under the truck and saw a wet spot on the transmission(leaking)It is a manual transmission 5 speed Dodge Dakota 2001.
View 2 RepliesWhen I start the truck in cold weather, the transmission doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear. Some time it take driving it a 1/8 of a mile before it shifts.
What is wrong / need replaced ? I was told to shift it thru all the gears before I move it to warm up the transmission fluid ? I'm thinking some sensor needs replace ???
When cold the trans works fine for about 15 mins, then its like you put it in nuetral. No forward no reverse. A friend suggested changing filter/fluids so I did. Worked great for about 4 hrs then same thing. Leave it sit for a few hours and it works good for about 15 mins then nothing. Should I try another filter or something else?
View 1 RepliesMy buddy has been telling me that his 2000 dodge Dakota v8 sport is burning 4 quarts of oil a day. Note that he only drives roughly 25 miles a day. The truck is claimed to have no oil leak whatsoever and this happens around 2500 miles after every oil change. I find it very hard to believe.
View 19 Replies2003 Explorer with a slipping transmission...codes are P0731, P0732, P0733... Just had a new solenoid pack installed last week when O/D light came on and truck was clunking into reverse. Now, after new pack was installed the forward gears are slipping all over the place!
View 5 RepliesI was driving out of a parking lot and as I accelerated onto the main road my vehicle stopped. I heard a grinding sound and could not go forward or reverse. While the car is in drive, park or reverse my car will roll any which way. It pushed it across the street. I tried to locate my tranny dipstick via visual inspection and manual. I could not find it. Could the stick have never been put back at some point in service and caused this issue. That seems unlikely but the thought occurred. Could it be the velocity joint? Whatever it is it certainly sounds like a transmission issue.
View 1 RepliesHere's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
2000 Dodge Dakota (144K miles)just performed tune up (spark plugs, oil change, pvc, air filter, battery). Before and After tune up I am experiencing stalling at light after going over multiple speed bumps.
View 4 RepliesCold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesThe transmission feels like it's "slipping" on our 2010 Journey. It doesn't seem to follow any particular driving situations, or conditions (like when it's cold or hot or up-hill or straight running); it just happens occasionally. Of course, we've barely busted the 100K mile warranty, so i figure it's time for something to break.
View 9 RepliesI am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.