Dodge - Dakota :: 1996 - Truck Will Backfire And Then Shut Off
Feb 2, 2013
so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
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Trying to figure out what the heck is going on with my 1996 Dodge Ram Van B2500. I purchased it a year ago, and for the past several months, its been acting up. Starts right up first start of the day. As day goes on, has difficulty starting, and stalls intermittently, also loses power with the gas pedal at higher speeds. It surges and big big backfires come out of the tail pipe.
This has gotten worse and worse, particularly the past 3 days. New computer put in it a few months ago, new battery, alternator, ignition coil, plugs, wires & distributor cap, oil filter, radiator and yesterday put in a new air filter, replaced both oxygen sensors AND the idle air control...alas, the same problems exist. Check engine light came on, but off today. Its so intermittent, and rarely GEN light would come on for a minute. Van would go for a couple weeks with no problems, but now its gotten real BAD! Fingers crossed I can make it to the auto parts store!
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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So my 96 Dodge Dakota's instrument lights went out a couple days ago, I thought it was just a fuse, so naturally I check all the fuses. Come to find out they're all fine, I replaced a few to see if maybe it was just an old fuse. Still nothing. Then last night I noticed that the instrument lights came on between off and on for the lights. So I assume its a wiring problem. Then as I drove down the road I hit a bump and all the lights went off then kicked back on. Needless to say I can't drive around with lights that won't stay on. Where should I check for the cause of this problem?
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We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
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My '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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So I own a 96 Dodge Dakota and its had a few problems since I first bought it, but its all fixed except for one really puzzling problem. My head light will flash on and off while on low beams after about 30 minutes (if on high beams its almost instantaneous). It all started out with my dash lights going out then the head lights would go out when driving. I checked the switch and plug, both were fried, so easy enough fix. That fixed the dash lights, but the head lights still go out. I replaced the bulbs and yet the problem still exists. I then took it to O'Reilleys and the put a volt meter to my negative battery post and to and auxiliary wire just 6 inches from the post. When the lights were on they produced around 46 ohms of resistance and when they shut off they produced 26 ohms. Which isnt good, so I replaced the negative battery cable to try and fix the problem. This still did not solve it. The only other suggestion I have been given is to replace the high/low beam switch on the steering whee. Could that solve the problem?
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
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Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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I have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
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we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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1996 1500 4.3 19k - After a 3 or 4 block drive I shut truck off for 1/2 hour or so. Went to start and got this no start situation acting like it was either flooded or vapor lock. New battery, new alternator...did act like a flat spot in starter a couple of tries but otherwise normal starter action.
I let it sit for about another fifteen minutes...tried and it started right up? I have been told this is a problem with the distributor cap & rotor going bad and is a common problem. Is this correct? If so, how is this corrected. Does the whole distributor have to be replaced? Rebuilt? Does just the distributor cap and rotor need replaced?
Batt and Alt less than three months old.
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I have a '96 Dodge Ram 1500. The only way I can describe the problem is when I go around 75, it feels like it loses power for a split second, then recovers. It will do this repeatedly, until I slow down a bit, then it won't do it at all. But once I speed up it will do it again. My first thought was the distributor/cap.
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I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
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I have a 1994 dodge ram reg cab short bed 2 wheel dr with a 5.2. When i first start the truck in the morning or after it has set for 5 or 6 hours it spits sputters and pops and backfires tries to die and is undrivable for about 15 mins. then its like you flip a switch and it just smooths out and runs great you can cut it off for 2 or 3 hours and it still starts and runs fine! Then the real funny part is after it smoothes out it runs great until i turn left it dies i can turn right and it's fine going around a sharp curve or if i turn hard into a parking place it will just die! i have replaced the pickup coil, dis cap, rotor button, wires and wrought them the specified way, plugs gaped at .035, not platinum, coolant temp sensor, and throttle positon sensor! there is no check engine light on the stored codes are 12 and 37. i am at a loss. This truck has no OBD so i cant see what is happing when it's acting up! i hope this is enough info.
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2001 gmc 2500hd 8.1l.... Check engine light is on. Code reads CAM Sensor, however I changed out the sensor myself and it still wont go away. My truck wont start on the first two-three times and it will back fire occasionally. What to do next?
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