Dodge - Ram3500 :: 2003 - Truck Hiccups When Starting From A Full Stop
Mar 6, 2012
When starting from a full stop our truck intermittently will act like there are air bubbles in the fuel line or something and will nearly stall out several times before it gets going. We don't have a problem while driving. The "hiccups" eventually got better after we began buying a different kind of fuel, but there is still a problem. We have had the truck looked at several times but no one can find anything wrong with it because the truck seems to always be on its best behavior when we take it somewhere. Except for this, the Dodge has been a great truck and pulled our 32' "house" all over the USA and Canada since we bought it brand new in 2003. We are very good about doing all the regular maintenance so the obvious answers can probably be ruled out. It has a Cummins diesel engine and we regularly add an additive to the fuel.
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I own a 2007 Dodge Ram Pickup (3500). One day it started by itself while parked outside in the driveway. It drove into one of my other pickups and pushed it into my side by side. It finally pushed both aside and was headed toward the house but was stopped by a tree. I heard a loud crashing noise so I looked out the window and saw what was happening. I jumped into the pickup to try and turn it off but the key wasn't turned on. I put the clutch in and took it out of gear but it just reved up more. The horn was blaring and smoke boiling out. I turned it off by opening up the hood and unhooking the battery cable.
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I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
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i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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Grinding feeling, and noise from rear of 02 explorer xlt. only noticed when starting out from a full stop and turning. It feels like something is grabbing like the rear brakes. I purchased this suv of a local dealer lot, because it was so clean and on a short test run seamed fine.
The day after I picked it up I took it for a shakedown cruise to see if I noticed any problems. After going up a few forward grades I noticed a disturbing rattling noise coming from mid under carriage, and got very worried. I immediately took it to a local well revered mechanic. They eventually had it for 4 days in order to diagnose it. After the dealer had done the inspection on the car and passed it, that all rotors and pads needed to be replaced, left front wheel was locked up, inspection sticker month was never punched, both front tires were bad and either the flex plate or tork converter or both needed to be replaced. I took it back to the dealer with the report and he agreed to fix it with me paying for parts. He did and the rattle was gone !
Yet now I have noticed the problem mentioned at the beginning of this piece, plus the rear wiper does not work. I think I got taken for a ride, which may become a longer ride than I thought. All I want is a reliable car. what could that rear noise be ???
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After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
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Just last night I noticed that when I was at a stop light my RPM would go high then low and when driving it felt like when she was changing gears alil rough (if that makes sense). This morning she started up just fine but as soon as I put into drive it stalled. Turned her off and started right up and then in drive stalled again....did this three times and I gave up. Last night when I was at a stop light I thought TPS because when I first bought her I had to change it, so it felt alil familiar, but back then (5 yrs ago) she never stalled.
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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Started up my truck today, accel pedal didn't want to move, after giving it some more force it eventually became "unstuck". Now, the real issue I'm having is from a dead stop, in 1st gear, as I'm letting out the clutch the truck boggs down as if I'm not trying to accelerate. I'm giving it as much as I normally would as I'm letting out the clutch but the motor will either die or take a couple seconds before it starts to go. Once I'm moving I don't notice any problems clutching through gears. The check engine light IS on now, however I don't have any diagnostic gear or really any tools for that matter. 1998 2.4L 5-speed...
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I've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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I removed the cluster in my friends 2003 Suburban last week to send it in for repairs as the gear selector and backlights as they were not working. I used this company several times before and they do excellent work. When the cluster arrived back a few days later I installed it and the truck would not start. I made sure the battery wasn't ran down and that everything was connected and still nothing. I called the GM dealer and the service tech told me that the truck should run without the cluster plugged in. Tried it and still no luck.
I proceeded to do the passkey security relearn procedure even though the security light was not lit and nothing. I got on here yesterday and read a post of about possibly a bad connection in the steering column so I lifted the column up and down several times while trying to start the truck and got nothing. All of the lights come on and I hear the fuel pump prime but it does not attempt to start. I drove the truck in the garage the day I removed the cluster and it ran great.
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1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
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The particulars are 2003 Camry, 4 cyl, manual trans. When it gets to be 90 degrees or hotter outside, the car hiccups when accelerating through 2800 rpm. That is the most common scenario. Pretty much any gear and the problem gets worse the hotter to outside air. It never throws a code or check engine light. It doesn't stall although it feels like an instantaneous loss of ignition. I can set the cruise control and it will periodically happen when driving through the desert. It repeats as often as it wants to....no overall pattern, uphill or flat, no difference. Dealer says nothing is wrong since it won't throw a code. No issue in the winter, only hot summer driving.
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I drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
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2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
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I have a 2002 F150. I have an intermittent issue with truck not starting. It turns over fine but will not start. Also, when having this issue, there is also no activity with the cluster when turning the key on (other than lights lighting up); the gauges will not move as they would normally when turning key on. I have checked every fuse inside / out. I have checked the fusible link at the battery as well as any other connections I could locate around the solenoid as well as disconnecting the ECM / computer and re-plugging it back up. Typically, after letting the truck sit for a day or so, it will start back up until next time.
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Have a 7.3 powerstroke won't start.. I have went through tons of parts check everything I can think of. I have put icp, our, fuel pump, fuel pump, injector, glow plugs and relay, fuel and air filter. new starter, new valve cover harness. HPOP is good and compression is good?
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I have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
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I had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
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