Electrical-wiring - Mercury - Mountaineer :: Instrument Cluster Has Been Randomly Failing
Mar 30, 2011
The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 mins after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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In the past few days, I've noticed that when my headlights are on the white backlighting of the speedometer, tachometer, and other gauges in the instrument cluster fail to illuminate, however the red needles within each gauge do illuminate properly. Furthermore, the rheostat adjustment does successfully brighten and dim the red needles, but the faces of the gauges remain dark. I checked fuses 23 and 27 and both are fine.
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I have a failing 2003 Chevy Suburban instrument cluster and wonder if I can replace it myself. All I have to do is remove it and re-install it when they send it back. 4 bolts and one plug. No reprogramming. What could be easier? Is it really something I can/should do? -
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2005 Mercury Grand Marquis, 102K miles
I noticed the other day that the voltmeter on my instrument cluster was indicating a bit low from normal (dead center). Knowing better than to blindly trust a cluster gauge I checked voltages with a multimeter, and it read 13.3V at the battery, and 13.4V at the alternator. This was after a 35 mile drive home from work with the A/C running virtually the whole time. Later on that evening I ran an errand, and noticed that despite the car sitting for a couple hours, the voltmeter was in the same low-ish spot. Checked voltages again with the multimeter, and they had not changed either, still 13.3/13.4V.
This morning I drove to work, and saw that the gauge (and voltages) did NOT drop off. Meter was dead center like it should be, and testing showed 13.9V all around. Today I drove home and kept the A/C off, and once again everything stayed right where they started, 13.9V. As an experiment I then turned on the A/C once I got home and rechecked voltages: within seconds it was back down to 13.3V, and it did NOT recover back to 13.9V after shutting the A/C off. It looks like once the voltage drops, it stays there for a while regardless of A/C being on or not.
Seems to me like it's possibly a slightly weak alternator (I don't like that it never quite reaches 14V under any circumstances). Another thought I had was that perhaps the belt tensioner is weak, as I did notice that when the A/C compressor clutch is engaged, the tensioner wiggles back-and-forth a bit, then returns to steady and solid when the clutch disengages. I should also add that the battery voltage when off is always good, 12.5V to 12.7V.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with 150K+ miles on it. Lately the transmission seems "rough" as in it seems to 'thud' randomly when I step on the gas while cruising. I think it's trying to change gears, but I'm not sure. It runs okay, but I feel like I should start thinking about rebuilding the transmission. I have access to a full set of tools and mechanics on hand and about a weeks worth of time. Think I can do it?
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I have not been here in a while. Sold my IS250 and picked up a 2004 GX470 for the family. Installed a new double DIN head unit a few months ago and finally got around yesterday to installing the backup camera. Since I had the rear hatch open I decided to replace the rear hatch lock actuator motor as well. Hooked everything up and turned on prior to closing the interior panels and everything worked fine (reverse lights, locks, backup camera, started up fine). So I closed up all the panels and go to start the car and I get nothing but random flashing from the dash once I get ignition to ON. I also get a steady clicking from the fuse area.
Checked the fuses and I also tried to hookup to Techstream to see if any errors, but of course I get nothing (it can't connect to the vehicle). I disconnected the negative for 20 mins or so and tried starting again with the same outcome. So I disconnected the camera wires from the reverse light (thinking maybe the GND wire was shorting somewhere to chassis?) and disconnected the negative battery cable for a while and tried once again... same flashing instrument cluster lights and no luck . Gotta get the wifes vehicle back up and running.
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I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
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I pumped gas at the local Chevron after noticing I was running just below a quarter tank this morning and immediately after turning the truck back on the instrument panel was dead. All other electric components worked fine (windows, headlights, signals, radio, etc.) Yukon GMC 2003 110k miles...
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03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
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For about 3 months, my wife's 2003 explorer has had a bad door sensor (I'm guessing). The car claims a door is ajar and the alarm would go off randomly if it's locked. Yesterday the battery died because apparently the alarm had been going off for so long while she was at work. After having a stranger jump it, she has had major problems:
-She claimed the headlights didn't work in any setting except in the on position with high beams on, but now they seem to work.
-The instrument panel is totally out including all gauges and all lights
-the power windows don't work
-the radio won't turn on or show any display
-the interior lights won't turn on
All of the fuses are fine and my mechanic checked them as well. He did say that a few key fuses aren't getting any power to them on either side. But the battery is charging and drawing just fine. The car doesn't seem to have any other issues and all of the flashers work just fine.
What the problem could be? I have wondered if one of the relays is busted.
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m having a really difficult time with my '95 7.3. Basically, the PCM is randomly shifting the transmission out and back into 4th with the TC locked. When I say randomly, I mean very randomly: sometimes once in a 100 miles, other times chronically, with no relation to weather, temps, incline, driving conditions, etc.
According to FORScan (using a high quality ODBLink SX USB cable) some sensors are showing a 0.04V dither (this is with the engine off, van immobile): I've already replaced the PCM ($$$) to no avail.
I'm truly lost as to what to try next. I'm about ready to drive this thing into a canyon. FORScan screen shot showing 0.04V spikes
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Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
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Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
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My Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
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2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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