Engines - Gasoline - Lights - Nissan - Sentra - Sensors :: CEL Code - Lean Air / Fuel Ratio Mixture
Apr 1, 2011
After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I got an 04 Nissan Sentra and I got a (P1273 Nissan - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 1) code that popped up on it. Looking to see what the probable cause for this code to pop up? Is this a rare code that popped up on this car? There's no noticeable symptoms going on with the car.
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I have had 06 passat with a 2.0 turbo. It been a great car. check engine light has come on with a few codes.
P0171 lean air fuel mixture. P2015, p2008, p0507, p2015, p2008.
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97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
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When I fill my gas tank (in other words, until the pump clicks off on its own) the dashboard gas tank gauge is at only at about 3/4 full. Itdoesn't seem to be the type of needle that shleps its way up after a few minutes. So I continue filling on my own until I have as close to a full tank as I can get without any overspill. What's up with that?
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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I got a CEL on my 96 4L EXT,130,000 mi. The guy that read it said it was lean mixture on bank 1. He also said a good start would be to pull the MAF and clean it and pull the EGR and clean and check it. I did that. While I was at it, I pulled the spark plugs, the IAC solenoid, purge solenoid. Going to also change the plug wires. Changed the O2 sensors 200 miles back.
I can't remember the code number. The items i have pulled and looked at seem to look OK. No plugging, if i connect a 12v source to the solenoids they react, if i pull vacuum on the EGR , the valve seat opens and closes. (Doesn't seal tight, but I wouldn't expect it to)
Question -----I pulled the DPF module mounted above but connected just below the EGR inlet pipe. How does this thing work? Is there a way to determine if it is faulty or not? It has two hoses in and a 3 prong connector on it.
FWIW---The best way I found to get the plug wires off was to push/pry "backwards" from the base of the boot, rather than pull for days until it comes off! Still a beast but a little faster I found.
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It keeps reading the code P0303 "cylinder 3 misfire". All coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs have been replaced. The exhuast smells normal. The oil is the correct color(maple syrup color, NOT milky). It's not blowing through coolant. Compression test came back normal. It's not the cat converter because the exhaust doesn't smell like rotten eggs. The car is sometimes hard to start. it hesitates/stumbles and shakes really bad. It feels like its not getting enough power.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE (Automatic) it just started to run rough and has been drinking gas at an alarming rate. Almost 1/2 tank in about 60 miles. The car doesn't seem to be running slow or smelling of gas. I was told it was fuel injection issues and have added some cleaner but I am shocked with how bad it go so quickly. I had two motor mounts replaced in the car recently (the front one a day before this started). Would they have knocked something out of wack?
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I got a 2004 Nissan Sentra and a p0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor) popped up on it after the car stalled out sitting in a parked position for 2 mins. The car also stalled out again 20 mins later while I was driving. When the car stalled out in park I had to wait 3 mins because it was just cranking over, when it stalled while driving it started 30 secs later with 1st turn of the key. This car has been having start up issues after the car been driven and sat for 40 mins but when the key is cycled 3 times it starts up fine. I also was going to eventually make a post of this, the car been making clicking or rattling noise at times, off and on mainly when the car been warmed up and at idle more noticeably heard , hear the noise better from inside the car, forgot what side of the engine where the noise is coming from. Also I did a search in the past about recalls on this car and there was a recall on the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR on the 2.5L engines, the car I have is a 1.8L. Stated on this link 3rd one down. [URL] ... . Does it sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to get replaced?
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The turn signals and hazard lights on my nissan sentra are working some times and all of a sudden they stop working. The problem is occuring almost every day. What could be the problem?.
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We have a 2013 Nissan Sentra that has been having some issues with the gas gauge not working but normally if we shut the car off and turn it back on it resets. Recently though we had a flat tire on the passenger front side. My husband took the car with a spare tire to a local tire shop and had them replace the flat. Directly following the change of the tire the odometer and speedometer stopped working completely, though the tachometer is fine. Also, the tire inflation, traction control, abs brake & engine warning lights are all on now.
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I recently had my "Service Engine Light" come on, Sunday to be exact. I went through my normal procedure of checking the fuel cap and drove several times to no avail. So today I ran by Autozone where I got the P0302 code. Now I realize I could go in for a tune up, but I'm a college student and just spent all my money on books so I'm looking for some DIY solutions before I lay down any large amounts of money. Where to start. As for a bit more background, I filled my car up with gas on Friday, the light came on Sunday and the car will shake on initial idle of the car.
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I have a 1983 Nissan Sentra with a Hitachi carburetor. The fuel in the float bowl seems to drain completely after sitting for 48 hrs. Is this normal? If not, what is the solution to preventing this fuel loss?
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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tonight at 1am: I put the key in and turn the ignition, no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights, no nothing. headlights don't turn on at allearlier in the afternoon - didn't check headlights, but no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights. Sliding 1 key into the ignition gave me a somewhat steady buzzing sound from the car, the kind you get to indicate something electrical is happening (I guess that's what it's for.
I wish I were mechanically inclined.) Sliding the other key into the ignition gave me a much more sporadic buzzing sound. Like metal wasn't making contact, when it should. A few hours previous in the morning - car wasn't starting as described above. Someone pushes the car back from the front so we can make way for another car, to come in and give me a jump. I put the car in neutral, and notice that the dashboard lights and buzzer is on, so on a hunch, I try to start the car in neutral and it starts right up. I drive it to the home driveway, no problem.
2 days ago, I bought the car. A 97 nissan sentra. What it could be? Again, never a clicking sound when starting the car to indicate dead battery. I'm familiar with that.
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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Mazda RX8. Because of the love of his car, he doesn't like to turn off the engine for short stops. That means if we go to a fast food place for takeout, he'll leave the car running while we order and wait for the food to be prepared. To my horror, I realized that he also left the car running while filling up his gas tank - while I was still in the car! I didn't want to ruffle feathers on the first date, so I thought I would ask here first: is it really "that dangerous" to fill up while the car is running? And if so, how can I bring it up without hurting his ego and diminishing my chances of another date?
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I own a 2003 Hummer H2 with a 6.0 liter vortec engine with only 62,000 miles. At 50 to 55 mph 1500 to 2000 rpm the engine surges 300 to 400rpm with foot steady on the throttle. There is no engine light on and I,ve checked for codes with a code reader from the auto parts store. No error codes. I've cleaned the mass flow air sensor and throttle body with no change. My next thought was to replace the throttle actuator control sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. I do enjoy working on my own vehicles so have been reluctant to take it into the shop.
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I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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1988 F250 351 5.8
I've worked for months on this truck and I now have it in the shop. The truck shows a 41 code and has a lean miss at idle that get worse during acceleration and cruise. The injectors were refurbished 6 months ago and the ECM was replaced 3 months ago. All sensors are new and within specs. Fuel pressure is good and there are no vacuum leaks.
The mechanic has verified that the condition is not electrical related. The O2 sensor will react if carb cleaner is sprayed into the throttle but other wise shows constantly lean. He's now checking all pins at the computer for any off condition. He is suspicious of the refurbished injectors. I'm wondering if the computer somehow went out again. Which way to go or what/how next to test?
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