While I am driving every once in a while my car will vibrate while I have my foot on the gas pedal. I cam confused as to what this could be. We replaced the torque converter last year could it be this? Or could it be something simple like a coil or mount?
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Ford Freestar with 164k miles experiences a high pitched whistling noise coming from the front end after a few minutes of highway speed driving. It sounds like a tea kettle whistle. It starts out as a quick pulsed whistle then moves to a solid whistling noise. I've heard it driving straight and turning. The sound pulsates if I turn the steering wheel slightly to the left or right but seems to occur more when I turn right. The sound does not occur if van is not in motion and will stop just before car comes to rest at a stop. Three repair shops have looked at this and none of them can replicate the sound while van is on a lift but one shop did hear it during a test drive. All three shops have been unable to locate / diagnose this whistling noise. They all state brakes are in very good shape.
View 3 RepliesI have 05 ford freestar 3.9.... The air works perfect until you put on max, then just slows down and sort of drops in temp, on a hot day feels almost humid. What is going on here... One guy said change cabin air filter i did and no change.
View 6 RepliesSo this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
We have controlled beeping sound coming from behind the dash board that last about 2 seconds does it 5 times and then is silent for about 20 minutes and the starts again.
The only warning light on is the low tire pressure light but the tire pressures are all ok. How to fix the beeping sound and the tire pressure light.
Ford Freestar 2005 4.2l....
So, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
My wife has a 2004 Freestar and a few weeks ago it all of a sudden went to red on the temp gauge and there was some steam. So I checked the reservoir and it was too low on coolant. I added the coolant but it still had a tendency to run towards red but turning on the heater full blast made it go down drastically (below 50%). ALso, the heater was blowing cold air. So I changed the thermostat and watched it. It continued to inch up to 70%-80% and then finally drop back down to 40%.
I also had to start adding coolant every other day. I took it in and had a flush done. It eventually blew the reservoir cap off and all the coolant out while my wife was on the highway. I had it towed to a shop and the mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong with it except the cap. He did a pressure check with the old cap and it wouldn't hold. He replaced the cap and it held pressure. He assumed that was the problem. That was a week ago.
Today it ran up to 80%-90% and then all of a sudden it dropped down to 40%. When we got home I let it cool for 4 hours and then checked the level. It was at the bottom of the reservoir roughly 3-4 inches below the fill line. We don't see any signs of leaking on our driveway. What could the problem be? I checked the oil to see if it may have coolant in it but didn't see any sign.
My 2004 Ford Freestar SEL (the 4.2L version, 123,000 miles) is missing. The computer code is P0302 which, from what I can find, indicates a misfire in cylinder 2. I had this same code at 99,000 miles and ended up having the spark plugs and wires replaced around 100K miles. It was all running fine until about a month ago and started misfiring again, badly. I thought it was related to the rain but it is doing it all the time now. At times it gets so bad, I have no power and the computer disengages my A/C (bad at this time of the year). I tried a running a fuel system cleaner that specifically mentioned cleaning the injectors, hoping the problem was simply a clogged injector, to no avail (I know I probably wasted my $10 here). I have a couple of questions:
1. Am I doing damage to the engine or transmission by continuing to drive it? I really don't have a choice but need to know how urgent it is.
2. Does this thing have a traditional distributor cap & rotor or is there an electronic ignition module the plug wires connect to?
3. Where would I find the illusive distributor or ignition module, in theory?
4. Any other theories as to the cause of the misfire (cheapest first)?
I replaced the fuel pressure sensor in my freestar...I drove it around for a minute then noticed a strong smell of gas. I stopped and then put the old sensor back in and now it won't start.
View 6 Replies2006 Ford Freestar. While we were on the road the electrical system failed but the engine kept running. No radio, no lights, no a/c, no ABS, no nothing – but were able to keep on driving. When I tried to turn on the fan or the a/c, the car hesitated as though the power was being interrupted. After 10-15 minutes of driving, everything seemed to return to normal. It starts and seems to run normally now, but we are hesitant to take it out on the road. What might be going on?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Cavalier and have been realizing that the ride has been getting noisier, but when I make a left hand turn ( or even turn the wheel 5 degrees or so to the left) it is much quieter. It sounds like a low vibrating sound and seems to shake the whole front end of my chassis. I can feel the vibration through the gas pedal, and it continues even when in nuetral or without the gas depressed. It is worse between 40-65 mph. Loose parts, misalignment, motor mounts, bad belts? And what it might cost to have this fixed?
View 5 RepliesThe keyless entry for my Freestar has just started acting up out of the blue. It will occasionally work after repeated button pushing on the fob.
It does this for both fobs
It does this for all buttons on the fobs
I have tried changing the fob batteries
The door buttons inside the car work just fine
What can cause intermittent functionality of the keyless entry system? Is there a box under the dash I can unplug/replug or a fuse I can change?
About a year and half ago I purchased a 2003 Honda Element and while it's a good car it has one noticeable issue. Whenever I'm driving between 50-70 mph there is a very noticeable vibrating sound throughout the car. More specifically the sound and vibrating seems to come from the the front and rear wheels. Also when I go over bumps or potholes there are prominent clunks up front as well. Would this have to do with my tire rods, CV boots or even struts?
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 05 Honda Civic with 105,00 miles on it is making a vibrating noise that sounds like going over a washboard. It seems to come from the right front of the car and only happens between 35 and 45 mph. We have been to 2 different repairs shops and replaced the bearings, struts, shocks, axles brakes, tires and engine mounts.. I' spent $ on this car and still haven't fixed the problem. My wife is starting to look at new cars ....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Honda Accord 4 Dr. When I accelerate starting at 60 mph to about 70 mph, it seems as though my tire is vibrating yet after 70 mph everything seems to be ok. I feel like it's coming from the back, but can't really tell. I've replaced my tires, balanced them, rotated them, balanced them again, even had my front axle replaced because the mechanic thought the axle was the problem. Yet my issue still persists.
View 13 RepliesI had a minor problem today with my prius, as while driving in LA rain, my Engine check light came up and engine started vibrating. It is okay when a motor is driving the car, but as soon as engine kicks in i feel vibrations and Engine Check light starts blinking. Rest of the electronics and battery charges normally.
I had to drive in the rain today for about 50 miles... Also, I found similar thread but no answer.....take a look with following subject thread. (I cant post direct link.... "Vibration and check engine on my 2008"..
Was lucky enough to pick up an 08 with only 26k miles 3 weeks ago from Virginia. I've gone through and swapped LEDs for all of the interior LEDs. Last night I finally had the time and I put VLED flank bulbs in the puddle lights under the mirrors. Today when driving I noticed the mirrors are vibrating significantly, so much that I have to readjust them back into position.
I don't see where I could have broken anything to cause this. I know there's some adhesive on the back of the mirror and wondering if I should go ahead and replace this? Or did I just not fit the glass back in 100%?
I have owned this car for about 6 months now and cannot get to the bottom of this sound/action. I have taken it to multiple shops, including the dealer where I bought it from, a Honda dealership, and two other shops (Firestone Complete Auto Care, and a local shop which is goodyear backed.) Here is the deal:
When I accelerate past 50 mph and up to 75 miles per hour, and also when I cruise at any speed between those numbers, my car has a very distinct vibration in both the seat and steering wheel. It also has a sound that matches the intensity and magnitude of the vibration itself. The sound and vibration intensifies and decreases with changes in speed, the sound changes pitch when turning the wheel from one side to another, and the vibration gets worse as I drive up or down hills. This sound also gets louder if I apply the brakes suddenly, but also decreases with the speed of the car.
Things I have had checked:
Ball bearingsRims (One rim was actually bent (steel rims), and now is replaced.)Alignment (This was actually done at least 4 times since I've had the vehicle)Replaced tires (to rule out tire noise, and also the tires were going bad from what I believe is this problem)
I have had this car test driven to try to get opinions and either the shop denies that they hear anything, or say they do not know what the sound could be. It sounds like it is coming from the front right. I have been told by the dealership from where this car came that the sound is "road noise" and should be ignored. I disagree, because if it is "road noise" then it should go away when driving on different surfaces. When I have had my alignment checked, Firestone found that my camber on my front right and left rear were off to the right, but were still within specifications. They also said there was nothing they could do, and suggested if I wanted it fixed, I should take it to a body shop.
Included are a scan of the alignment results from Firestone, and a sound clip of the sound that is captured on my phone. Also, the sound can be heard throughout the recording, but is especially clear at around the 42 second mark.
I've been back from a year overseas for a little over a month and have been driving my 2 door R daily since coming back. All of a sudden today, the passenger side window started vibrating like crazy under normal driving. It is very loud and noticeable, but goes away once I crack the window. If I roll it up and crack the driver's side, I get the "helicopter vibration noise" some have noticed when the sunroof is open (I don't have a sunroof, but have noticed this on all my other VWs).
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
View 3 RepliesWhen the defrost button is on, my Vibe makes a continuous vibrating noise that stops if you hold your hand on the button constantly while driving. The defrost has to be constantly on as even in good weather, the windows fog up. The dealer wants upwards of $700 to get into the dash and explore. I'd settle for just getting rid of that noise.
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