It was a chilly morning for North Texas, in low 20's this morning. I started my truck in the driveway driveway, as I do any morning when it cold out, then retreated back the house to grab my coffee before hitting the road to work. This morning was different, the engine had stalled out but the battery still had the lights and radio on. Any thoughts on this aside from the usual guesses of cylinder, fuel pump and purge valve?
View 5 RepliesI have a 6 cylinder '99 Ford E150 and though it has plenty of oil, the oil pressure gauge drops and the idiot light comes on whenever it stops and comes to idle. Pressure seems fine when driving but dips at a stop lights etc..
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F-150 with a 5.4 liter engine. After it warms up past the operating temperature, it dies abruptly upon coming to a halt with no acceleration. The RPMs have to stay up to keep it running. No codes are registered.
View 17 RepliesBattery warning light came on a couple of times when driving to work in my 2000 F-150. I had thought that the instrument lights had looked dim for a couple of days. The warning light was only when the truck was idling and the warning went off as the truck was moving.
View 8 RepliesHaving problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
View 10 RepliesI have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesIve been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
View 8 Repliesdiagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
View 10 RepliesI got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
I have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
View 5 Replies1997 Ford Explorer 4.0L the engine just died while idling. The engine will not turn over at all. Battery and cables are good. Able to get engine to turn over with screw driver on starter relay but still won’t start. Checked spark when bypassing relay with screw driver and spark is Ok.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
View 2 Replies1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.
Noticed my beater Honda del Sol (177k miles) idling slowly the other day. Normal 45F day, light urban driving. Usually idle is ~800rpm (indicated), was dropping to 600rpm and even 500rpm. Holding her at 1000rpm then releasing the gas pedal yielded ~300rpm and it almost died, followed by ~500rpm. Ran fine at any other speed; it had no hesitation, no noises, and no warning lights.
So my GF said, "you're probably low on oil; my Cooper S did that once". Huh? Why would low oil, other than if it were so low that it starved the engine and caused friction, impact the idle? If anything, I'd think it would idle faster with less fluid to pump, and/or with hotter and hence thinner oil (assuming it'll run hotter if it has less oil, which it didn't appear to be).
Sure enough, I checked and it was about a quart low. I've never had a car that uses oil, plus my cars usually have oil pressure & oil level indicators (i.e. Porsche 944S2). So I've never run those lower than near the bottom of the "normal" range.
Searching "The Google" only provided unsatisfactory answers about metal-to-metal grinding and galling slowing down the engine, which is not what is happening here. There is still oil pressure, the oil light does not come on, and the engine sounds "normal". And adding oil immediately cured the slow idle.
95 GMC Sonoma SLS 2.2L 5 speed distributorless ignitionStart cold, engine purrs, runs for 20-25 min, idling in drive, then dies as if you shut it off. All fluid levels correct. Will not restart until cools off. Have replaced: coils and ignition module, fuel pump and sending unit, ignition cylinder and ignition switch, oil pressure switch. Engine light does not come on. (bulb is not burnt, comes on when starting). Have checked all grounds.
View 5 RepliesWhenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
View 1 RepliesSo today I ran into an issue with my idle, anytime I let the gas off the rpms come down but don't stop until the engine quits and the car dies. The battery warning light comes on until I restart the engine. Right before this started happening I was driving and all of a sudden the power cut out, puttered down to 11-1400 rpms and wouldn't respond to gas pedal, I shut the car off, restarted and it continued to cut power at 1400ish rpms. Let it sit for a few minutes, restarted and the car drove like normal.
A few miles down the road it started to die when no gas was applied. The car has a VF stage 2 SC with Um E85 tune. Seems to go in and out of dieing at idle, sometimes it will be fine and sometimes it'll die. I should also mention that I threw a coolant temp sensor code and haven't had a chance to replace it yet, but when I was troubleshooting the idle issue I cleared the stored codes and the coolant temp sensor code disappeared. At least I'm getting some good practice left foot braking for the time being.
Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
My Subaru Outback is dying on me when I come to a stop and has happened when just idling. I have been told it is the torque converter and replacement is 2 thousand.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1995 Nissan Maxima that dies after sitting and idling for around ten minutes. It also has been dying at stoplights, etc. It runs fine if I get the rpms above 1000. When it dies it restarts but often I have to push the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then it seems to catch and run as long at the rpms are up. I have taken it to a place and due to it's age they couldn't do a diagnostic check on it. I've had the exhaust system replaced (it needed it), the spark plugs replaced, the coolant temperature sensor replaced but still no luck.
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