I changed front rotors and bled brakes. They were hard for a few days and went soft. No leak in fluid (MC reservoir is still full). No leak in fluid near any wheel. Could I need to bench bleed the master cylinder?
View 12 RepliesMy 96 thunderbird had a rear caliper shot. I changed the caliper, the rotor, and the brake pads then bled all the brakes. The three I didn't touch bled perfectly when someone in the car pressed the brake, I let fluid flow, then tightened the nut. The wheel with all the new parts I get zero fluid out of. I removed the brake line completely and pumped the brakes and still no fluid. It has no pedal and three of the four brakes have been bled. My only guess is there is air in the line but why wouldn't any fluid come out if I continually pump the brake pedal with only that one line open?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
View 3 RepliesI just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
The pedal used to go right down to the floor and would barely stop the car from a crawl, in response I have bled the brake lines to all calipers, and checked the hydro booster fluid level, and with only slight improvement the pedal almost hits the floor.
I am thinking the brake master cylinder is shot. The pedal becomes solid after about 15 pumps when off, and holds pressure, when on it takes several pumps to build any sort of pressure and cannot be built up to the solid point, and looses pressure quickly when just holding the pedal down.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
I had to replace all brakes because the bleeders were rusted in, wouldn't come out. So I bled and re-bled, but the brake pedal is still squashy and goes down too far if I have to stop from any speed. I even used my vacuum pump for evacuating air conditioning systems, pulled quarts of fluid through all the brakes-definitely no 2004 vintage fluid in there any more! Yes, I made sure to never pull the master cylinder reservoir empty, which would let in air. I always start from right aft and end up at left front, in order of bleed first. No leaks, the fluid level is always where I left it on previous session. I must be missing something...How can there still be air?
View 14 RepliesI have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
I recently had my rotors replaced and when I left the garage I noticed I had to press the brake farther than normal. A few days later, I have to press the brake pedal almost all the way to the floor. My brakes sound like there is an air leak when I push the pedal. Sometimes it stutters at the top of the push.
First question is what could it be? The second question is, could this have been caused by the rotor replacement? Seems awfully coincidental.
Purchased new 2012 Ford F350 to haul slide in camper. When I step on the brakes they go 3/4 of the way down. If I pump again, they go 1/4 of the way down (normal). Brought this to Ford dealer, they test drove the vehicle and admitted I had a problem with the brakes. They told Ford and Ford faxed a letter stating they are aware of this issue and there is nothing they can do about it. Stated this is a "soft braking pedal problem" with some of the 2011 and 2012 Ford trucks.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Fusion (I4). Recently the brake pedal goes extremely soft after the anti-lock brake system engages. It can still brake, but I have to press the pedal almost to touching the floor. It will stay soft a while (at least 20 min, probably longer), but I found that if I pump them hard a few times (like while at a red light) it then returns to normal.
My mechanic can't figure out why it doesn't immediately return to normal after the ABS engages, and he's not sure what to replace to fix it. I don't have the cash right now to just go replacing lots of stuff, hoping it might work.
(He even mentioned the possibility of removing the ABS fuse to prevent the ABS from kicking in and triggering the problem. Though wouldn't that be a step backward, safety-wise? I always heard that ABS is much more effective than pumping brakes manually...)
What's causing this and how to fix it?
My son just bought a 97 F150 with the back brakes blocked off. The front brakes had about full pedal when the was on. We changed the front calipers and brake pads. Bled them came back with great brakes (with back brakes blocked).
Then we found out the back calipers was none so we bought all new parts for both back brakes, found some leaks in the rear lines fixed them. Now we bled the brakes with the motor off till no air came out. Solid pedal. Then turned on the motor and the pedal goes down 3/4 of the way now easy.
Stops on snow good no tire sliding. Turn off the motor has solid pedal again.
So the other day I had someone change lanes and slam on the binders right in front of me which caused me to slam on mine. Luckily no one got hit. Now my brakes feel different. Sometimes the pedal feels nice a firm other times it pushes in 2-3" before starting to brake. The fluid level has not changed in the resevoir and the hydroboost appears to be working fine. The power steering is still operating as before. I have checked the calipers and none are leaking.
My suspect is the master cylinder but was wondering if the symptoms are common with the master cylinder failing? I'm thinking internal o-ring has failed due to the near accident event. I'm going to do power steering flush just because I never have. Is there anything that would display these symptoms that I could check before buying the master cylinder?
So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 that developed an odd problem almost two years ago that no mechanic I've taken it to has been able to find and fix, and I and my more car-savvy friends haven't had any luck with either.
About maybe 50% of the time when I sharply turn left (only left, never right) the brake pedal goes "soft" and the vehicle's braking power drops dramatically (but not entirely). Because of the sharp angle required to make this happen, and the low speeds I have to be moving at to even handle that sharp of a turn with this vehicle, this has only ever happened when I pull into a parking spot, and the vehicle still manages to come to a complete stop safely before being in danger of hitting anything. It never ever happens at any other time, and brakes like a champ normally.
I've had numerous other issues with the brakes in this vehicle in the last two years, all of which I've fixed. This one eludes me and every mechanic I've taken it to, though. I've replaced both calipers, both rotors, the brake pads, bled all four brake lines, and had the ABS control unit and ABS motor replaced.
At the time the issue first appeared, I had two damaged calipers caused by shoddy brake pads disintegrating on me (almost new, barely worn, but covered in pockmarks, looked like a Michigan road) and clogging up the calipers. That caused the vehicle to lurch to a halt with screeching tires if I so much as barely tapped the brake pedal. Replacing the calipers and brake pads fixed that issue, but did not fix the soft pedal issue when turning left. I ended up with the same screeching sudden stop problem recently when the ABS module went bad, replacing it fixed that, the brake pads and calipers are still in good condition, and replacing the ABS did not fix the soft pedal issue.
Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
View 14 RepliesI replaced my MC, and still soft pedal, when I bench bleedI noticed that the screw in plugs to fit the tubes over it to bench bleed it, they both were loose and when I was bleeding it a lot air bubbles was goin thru the tubes, so I tighten the screws and belled it again this time I bleed it till no bubbles, installed the MC and we bleed the brakes, and still soft peddle, we are going o bleed again tomorrow. Were we supposed to bleed until the new fluid comes out? and if you can what is the best way to bleed the brakes?
View 6 RepliesI have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
View 2 RepliesGot Elantra GT 6 month ago. Good car, but it seems I have a very common problem of Elantras - lost of brakes. My car has TCS, but no ABS. It started 4 month ago. Car is fine for several weeks, but then within two days brake pedal getting from bad to worse. My mechanic already replaced master cylinder and right rear caliper. Did not work. Yesterday it was third time when I almost (very soft pedal) lost brakes. Today in Hyundai dealer service they bled the brakes and said "that they hope it will work". Their mechanic found air in both (left and right) rear brake lines. So, my question if I have a leak in, say, left line will it propagate to the right line? I am asking because I do not know the hydraulic schema of the brakes and want to collect as much info as possible.
View 17 RepliesWe were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
I have had everything related to the clutch changed, and I even had a dealership bleed the clutch line. The problem is the clutch pedal is soft and will sometimes work good and sometimes won't. If I prop the pedal to the floor for a few hours, it works fine for the day. what gives?
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