Ford - Taurus :: High Pitched Whirring Noise When Starting Cold
Apr 27, 2013
When starting in morning (even if weather is warm) or after car has sat for several hours, my 1999 Taurus makes a high-pitched whirring noise. Thought it was a loose fan belt, but mechanic said that was wrong. Have taken it to several mechanics and, of course, it doesn't make the noise after I've driven it there. Have to leave it overnight, which is HUGE problem as I don't live near public transportation. Noise occurs several times as I shift into DRIVE and then accelerate. After that, it disappears, then comes back again, if I leave it sit for several hours. One mechanical friend checked the tranny fluid and said it's fine. Also said it is probably not the tranny but didn't know what it could be. I took it to one of your recommended mechanics, but they couldn't find anything and said they didn't even hear the noise, although I did leave it overnight at their garage. (Won't go back there again.)
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High pitched whirring noise when the climate control fan (compressor?) is running at low speeds. It doesn't seem to matter if the air is on or not. I'd like to know what it cost to fix and if it is covered under most extended warranties.
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I have had my certified 2010 Prius II, not two because it is a 2010 and 2010 used uppercase roman numerals for model designation, with 82000 miles about 3 months and sometimes when I apply the brakes I hear a high pitched whirring noise. I think the closest thing to compare it to would be a skill saw but not that loud.
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In the last few days there has been an intermittent high pitched whirring noise coming from the rear undercarriage of my 2009 Elantra with automatic transmission, at least it seems where it is more pronounced on the outside of the vehicle. The pitch is unaffected by acceleration or climate control changes. It just comes and goes at random. The temperature here has dropped considerably in the last week or so and seems to have started since then.
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About a month ago, I purchased my 2013 Prius Four. I've put on about 2,500 miles so far and recently started noticing when I start the car up, it is giving off a high pitched squeaking noise. This happens both when the car is using the electric battery and when I can feel the gas engine kick in. After about a minute or two, the noise goes away and doesn't come back.
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It's been pretty cold here and haven't started my R in 2 days at the most. I turned it over this morning and got this high pitched noise, like maybe a belt slipping or a bad bearing? The CEL flashed a few times then went away.
I couldn't stick around to check codes or inspect the bay, but what it might be?
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t with unitronic stage 2 ECU and following mods:
ssqv BOV with recirc fitting (so acts like a DV)
3 inch open downpipe
Water/Meth injacetion (-35c washer fluid)
Short ram intake+heat sheild.
Spring loaded wastegate.
So for a while now I could hear a very quiet high pitched sound along with a whoosh sound from the intake at low rpm when the car is cold, after 5-10 minutes of driving the sound changes to where i just hear the wooosh from the intake, no high pitched.
I went out, let my car park for about an hour or 2 in 0c temp. went to drive it,everything is fine, the car just hit 90c. so i floored it, but traction control was on and i have winter tires, so it barley got to 4k rpm. CEL started flashing, no throttle control, really annoying high pitched sound from engine bay with lightest touch of throttle. the trubo was boosting to 22 psi and holding up to 16 PSI at redline before this happened.
The car would struggle to stay at idle, massive vibrations. but after reeving to 2k+ rpm no issue staying at that rpm, no blue/black smoke from exhaust. i scanned it and only got misfire codes and this strange code : "17925 - power supply relay for ecu (J271 or J363): electrical malfunction"
I had to clear the codes 3-4 times and restart the car 3 times for the power supply relay code to go away. but all the misfires, the high pitched sound stayed. it would misfire while driving, then stop, and then again.
I also logged with VCDS, and flooring it from 2k rpm to 2.6k rpm resulted in 0 extra boost over idle (idle boost was 980mbar).
Is my turbo blown 100% because of that sound, or could it be something else causing the "dentist drill" sound? And what about the power relay issue for ECU, could this cause any of the symptoms?
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My 337 didn't pass inspection (control arms, inner tie rod, no cat because the guy I bought it from sucked etc) but it sat for probably 3 weeks and I just sold my other car (I was planning on using that $2000 to get the 337 to pass inspection) but I just drove the VW down the street for the first time and it's making some scary sounds.
Basically when I give it throttle there's a high pitched whirring sound and something keeps rattling that sounds like its coming from the engine bay. I'm really freaked out, I'm leaving in two months because I'm transferring to a new college and I need this thing to run perfectly.
It's also shifting a little strangely and if you don't shift absolutely perfectly then it starts to rattle (not like you're about to stall but something completely different) I can't take it to a VW dealer or anything because I'm way over the 15 days past a failed inspection and I can't afford a tow.
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My Jeep makes a whistling noise in cool/cold weather (~60 degrees and below) that no mechanic has been able to diagnose let alone fix the problem. Here are the details...
-high pitched whistling (can be heard inside and outside the car - very loud) only when temps are about 60 degrees and below-after 5 minutes of the car running-only when RPMs are about 2.0 or below.
However, RPMs can be higher when it is colder out and it will still make the noise-as you push on the accelerator, the noise gradually decreases until RPMs are high enough to completely stop the noise.
When temps are around 50-60 degrees, sometimes the whistling will stop after the car has been at a complete stop for about 1-2 minutes-If you turn off the car and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then turn it back on, usually the whistling will be gone. It will need to sit in the off position for longer the colder the temps are. This problem has been ongoing for about 4 years.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S Got it brand new in november of 2009. Its been 5 years since I had it and never had this problem.
So this has been happening for a month now, and I can't figure out what it is? It only sounds at first startup of the day when the engine is cold and only sounds off for 1 second right when you start the car.
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When it is cold (below 30 degrees) and above about 30mph, there is a loud high pitched squeal (rather like the pitch of a squealing hearing aide)that seems to come form the front drivers side. The colder it is, the louder it is.
When I am able to take it in it is too warm to hear it. What might be causing the noise and will they be able to figure it out if it isn't making the sound?
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Need to determine the cause of a strange high-pitched squealing noise coming from the engine compartment of my 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5l automatic. The squeal happens only when the temperature is cold (below 32 degrees) AND I hit a bump. It happens more often the colder it is outside. The noise is definitely coming from the front of the car and seems like the passenger side but I can't be sure. It happens with the blower fan/AC both on and off so I don't think it is caused by that. It happens when the car is cold or driven for a while and warmed up.
It occurs at both high & low speeds. I checked all my fluids under the hood and everything is filled as it should be. There are no lights (check engine or ABS) on. Recommend any troubleshooting that I can try? I have not taken it to a mechanic yet as they might have a hard time reproducing the noise since it has to be below freezing and hit a decent bump. I attach a video that I took while driving last week on a 16 degree day and heard the squeal when I hit a bump. I had been driving for about 30 min when it occurred. I have more videos of the noise if needed.
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Have a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
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So my girlfriends Toyota RAV4 (2005) is making a medium pitched whirring noise from the passenger side of the engine compartment. (Same area where the serpentine belt and the alternator and all those goods are located.) The battery warning light is on, solid. I have not had a chance to take my DMM and check voltage but I suspect this is going to be a bad alternator since it is a noise consistent with the RPM of the vehicle and visual inspection of the belt is that it is still in one piece, not frayed, flexible, etc. I didn't rev the engine because I didn't want to freak her (the gf) out. My plan is to test voltage before she does anything rash like take it to the dealership which she is already planning on doing but the noise concerns me since noises tend to come from things that move which is probably an indication of some sort of mechanical failure and that tends to cost money. Luckily it's her car.
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About 2 months ago, I noticed a high pitched whine on my 2005 Subaru Outback. It honestly sounds like a siren and is very noticeable. It occurs more often when the car is cold (1st thing in the morning) and around 20 mph. It sounds like it is coming from the rear of my car. It occurs whether or not I am pressing on the gas pedal. Once I get above about 30-40 mph, I don't notice it anymore (don't know if this is because other engine noises are drowning it out or what). It does not change or get worse when I turn. It seems to subside once my car is warm. Other people have heard it and some describe it like an airplane taking off.
I took it to the Subaru dealership and they said it was my alternator. Lo and behold a few hundred dollars later, it was still making the noise. A few days later, my CAM sensor went bad and I was back in the shop. Of course, I tried to get my car to make the noise for the mechanic, but it wouldn't cooperate. They didn't see anything wrong, but it is still making the noise. I have taken it to the dealership and they couldn't get it to make the noise. My rear wheel bearings were going bad and so I replaced those - under warranty, but it still makes the noise. I keep up with all my oil changes, services, etc. I just had the fluids checked and the power steering fluid is normal. The power steering pump has also been checked and it is normal. What this might be?
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I posted a related video in the fuel pump thread here where the high whine noise is apparent several seconds after a cold start. Now from inside the cabin, looking at the revs, the "sewing-machine-like" whine disappears above 1200 rpm.
High-pitch noise below 1200 rpm - YouTube
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My 1999 Honda Accord is making a whirring noise sometimes. It happens occasionally, now more frequently than last month. It sometimes happens when I start the engine, but am still in Park. Mostly it happens when I'm actually driving. both slowly on back roads and fast on the highway. What would cause this?
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There a couple of things wrong with this particular vehicle. first, that battery will not hold its charge; it also has a high pitched noise when started and only when accelerating. Where to start?
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This evening, my F150 with 2,600 miles developed a high pitched squeal, much like you might experience on an older vehicle with failing front brakes. Yes, that same squeal/grind the brakes make...metal on metal. It came in instantly while at highway speeds. It was VERY loud. The pitch didn't really change with speed...it was pretty consistant going slow or fast. There was no vibration, chatter or growl as I would expect with a failing bearing.
It was definately in the driveline/brakes. I was 10 miles away from a friends house, so I turned around and took it back to his place. Shortly after turning around, it quieted, only sounding when I would turn ( like a wheel bearing would when being side loaded ). I looked at the brake disks, thinking something was grinding on one of them. The outsides of the disks looked fine. Due to the shields on the inside, I couldn't see.
Later in the evening, I had to drive it back home, about 50 miles. Again, it was quiet unless turning fairly hard. By the time I got home, the squeal had turned into an intermitant growl/thump, as if a warped rotor was banging on the caliper. The noise was 1 to 1 with the rotation of the driveline. But still no vibration. Brakes work perfectly and the noise doesn't change with brake use. Backing up and turning hard results in a variety of sounds, including squeaks.
The hubs and CV joints felt cool. The brake disks were not hot as if they were dragging.
It is 4x4 / 3.7l
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So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
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I think my setup may be unique in that I have an XM commander, and Christian at Enfig made a special cable so that I have power connectors to the CD changer and my XM commander unit. Christian did a great job with this.
My dilemma is that there is a high pitched noise coming through the XM when the engine is running. It is not loud, and is not as audible at lower volume, but with my hearing problems, it is louder to me than to others.
The noise is not there when the car is not started. I guess there is no filter running the power to the changer (I am guessing), and now my XM commander box. I would not even know what to do regarding a filter or where it should go. The CD still plays clear with no noise. I have not connected an IPOD yet to the X3, but since the power to the CD and the XM commander is coming from the car battery, I figured that was the culprit.
Also, if I did not need the additional audio inputs, the XM roady I had in my center console via FM transmitter had more volume and more bass than my XM commander via X3. The XM roady did not sound good at all via the X3, and the XM commander was clearly better via X3 interface.
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