Gmc - Canyon :: Shuddering While Stopped Or Idling
Mar 27, 2012
I have a 2005 GMC Canyon pickup with ~43,000 miles. This January 2012 it started shuddering while stopped or idling, shaking down from approximately 900RPMs to 5-600RPMs. It felt like it would shut down, but then jumped back up to normal. I had the fuel system cleaned out, which included a chemical clean of the throttle body. It ran fine for a few weeks but then came back with a vengeance, now also shuddering while accelerating on the freeway. After the check engine light came on (and then went off), I brought it to the dealership and they told me it was definitely something internal to the engine but couldn't tell me what.
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A few weeks ago on a short drive, my car (2000 Toyota Corolla) started shuddering/pulsating when I was stopped at a red light (and it kept doing that intermittently as I drove the few blocks home.) Next time I tried to start it, it turned over but then died. Towed it to the mechanic, he said it was a dead ignition coil, he replaced the coil and it was able to start again.
Less than a week (and not much driving - 50 miles tops) later, on the highway, it starts shuddering again, feels way underpowered, and the check engine flashes. It's pretty scary. I pull over and have it towed to the mechanic. (It still starts up but doesn't feel safe to drive, plus the check engine light is flashing.) First he says one of the fuel injectors needs to be replaced, then he says that on further testing it was actually another dead ignition coil. He replaces the ignition coil (he didn't end up replacing the fuel injector) and I pick up the car.
It's fine on the drive home (which is about 3 city miles, no highway driving) and on another neighborhood errand, and the check engine light isn't on, but now it's sort of shuddering again. I don't want to keep driving it and/or try it on the highway to wait for it to get worse.
I guess I'll take it in again tomorrow, but does this seem odd at all? I know some people replace all 4 ignition coils at once pre-emptively, but it would seem strange for 3 to fail within ~150 miles (assuming this is yet another ignition coil.) What else might be going on? I had the spark plugs changed last year so those should be fine. The car has pretty low miles on it (about 100k) for the age.
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2010 Nissan rogue (42,500 miles) When the a/c is on and I'm stopped in traffic, with my foot on the brake the car shudders. There are times I feel like it will stall. I've had it to the dealer several times and they've told me the compressor puts a lot of strain on the engine. I have been in many other vehicles small and large and do not notice this.
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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I have a 2006 GMC Canyon i5 4x4 with 86000 mi. The problem started about 3 years after purchase. I would try to start the truck the starter engages but doesn't start, let off the key and the security light on the dash starts flashing. The manual instructs you to leave the key in the run position for ten minutes turn to off and retry to start. This usually works, on a couple occasions, I've had to do this twice. I've had the vehicle to the dealership with no results, it doesn't leave a code on the computer and hasn't happened while they had it. They tell me everything checks out fine but the problem still persists. I hate having a vehicle I can't depend on.
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2004 Canyon, rear brakes squeal and grab, and occasionally stick. I know its the semi-metallic rear shoes, is there a cure for this condition?
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I'm wondering if top tier gasoline is better for our car's. I had a 2002 Camry that stopped idling up with the A/C turned on. I was told that the only way to fix was to replace the throttle body after it was sprayed with some kind of cleaner. No adjustments as the idle is set by the car's computer. Don't want to go through that again.
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My Dad has a 1992 Toyota Pick-up with a 22RE engine it is a 2 wheel drive automatic. The truck stopped running while idling, he did code tests on it and they came up clear. He can get it to run on propane but not on gas. He did change all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plug wires.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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I have a 99 pontiac grand am that sometimes won't start and lately it is cutting out when I am stopped and idling at stop lights/signs. And today it just died when I was driving, it started right back up, then died again about three times, then it seemed to be fine, I drove it for about 2 miles and it just died and won't restart. We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition switch, fuel relay fuse twice, air filter, and some sort of module.
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The Accent is a 2004 and it belonged to my parents. It is a 5 speed manual trans. and has about 100K. It runs fine except when stopped and idling it stalls. It starts right up again, but stalls every time it idles. My dad said it was something inexpensive to fix, however he could not remember what the part was.
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Weird problem on my Passat today. First the engine light came on...followed by rough idling. It smooths out when moving, but rough again when stopped. Noticed that turning ON the AC makes it a little smoother...but when you turn off the AC, resumes the rough idle.
Already made an appt with the dealer tomorrow...but wanted to see if this problem is familiar to other owners. Either way, I will update once the dealer finishes diagnosing the problem.
The car has been perfect up to 30k miles...now 2 problems in the last month.
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I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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Ok, I own a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GLI that I bought from my neighbor about 4 months ago, and recently, it started having problems. It's idling very high, around 1,500-2,000 rpms, it's leaking coolant, not from the bottom of the reservoir but from the top, and it's slightly overheating. Oh yeah, the speedometer stopped working. I've recently taken it to the shop twice, the first time to get the reservoir replaced, and the second time to get radiator replaced.
I have had problems with it stalling in the middle of the highway during traffic because it over heated. I commute daily to and from college and I want to make this car last as long as possible as I do not have the means to buy a new car. I have noticed that there seems to be a build up of air in the reservoir. I witnessed it leak, and there was a hissing sound coming from it. Also with the speedometer, the light doesnt turn on for it and that there is a clicking noise coming from it. Any tips?
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Going up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
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My 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
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Wednesday Morning in Northern MN was a cold one (-27) and I needed to snow blow. Got in the Buick started it and immediately turned to back it up 10 feet for the snow blowing. When I turned the wheel it was real stiff and it let out an loud groan. 2 hours later, I warmed it up and started down the road.. groaned at every turn and was kind of shuddering at the turns.
Went to Kmart and got some steering fluid, topped it off...drove great afterwards but noticed foam when I filled it. took a whole bottle..... I betcha it was supposed to be synthetic, because the next morn it shuddered when I backed it out then the power steering growled and stopped.. No power steering now. Question, if it had synthetic in it and I topped it off with non-synthetic, what do I do now?
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Whenever I am on wet pavement, and even on a slight incline, my Honda Element shudders a bit before grabbing the pavement. I have the original tires that came with the - used - car, which I bought three years ago. It's not a big problem, but is a slight irritant. Is it a problem with the tires or something more serious?
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My Subaru was violently shuddering. I think the cold weather has made it worse. It seems to just be when I accelerate. I'm not sure if it's the CV joints or the rack and pinion.
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My 2010 Prius has starting to shudder and vibrate a bit on occasion when starting to accelerate as in stop and go traffic. It seems to happen mainly when the electric charge is low and the engine is on charging the battery and then I start to accelerate at the same time. It goes away once the speed in over 10mph. It happens occasionally, not every time. Never used to do this. Car has about 160k miles. Could it be a problem with the transmission device?
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