Gmc - Sierra1500 :: 1989 V8 Will Not Start / Fuel Injectors Don't Spray Fuel Into Combustion Chambers
Oct 1, 2012
I have a 1989 GMC suburban V8 350 5.7l that will not start. I have replace the following fuel pump and sending unit, fuel pump relay, ECM computer brand new, new fuel filter. When I go to start it the fuel injectors dont spray fuel into the combustion chambers verified fuel injectors still work by bypassing them and they spray fuel. Fuse's are not blown. I have been told the oil pressure switch might be bad but I'm at my end of sanity on this.
Additional Details : Tried spraying fuel into the throttle body and still no fire, ignition module and ignition coil where replaced 15,000miles ago.
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I've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
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I took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
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for the past week we have been trying to figure out what is wrong with our truck. We recently bought it and it ran fine. Then got in a minor accident just a fender bender and it started acting up so I got towed to garage. First it would run when cold, but when hot fuel pressure would drop to 28 psi.
So I put new fuel pump, it started but still did the same thing hot 28 psi fuel pressure shuts off. So I put regulator on it, then had 0 fuel pressure won't even start. So got a another regulator thinking I got a bad one, still 0. Checked relay, there fine. I'm gonna check lines and see where fuel stops at but everything is new on it.
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After driving my truck for a few hours a day it doesn't want to start it cranks ok but it just wont start it feels like no fuel is getting to the injectors. I let it cool down around 30 min then it just starts this happens to me twice a week approx. i replaced the fuel crank sensor. but to no avail.
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
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I just wanted to make sure. I'm using starter fluid which I heard causes a bigger explosion and can damage piston rings and whatnot so I figured can I just spray some gasoline into the air intake?
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I had my r on dyno today to see same numbers, but injectors or cutting off at 15psi.. and runs lean at high rpms. I think 550cc injectors go up to 18psi??
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My 1986 Ranger 2.9 starts only when I spray starter fluid into the air intake. It does stay running and it drives fine. The engine will not fire up unless I do this process. I have cleaned out the fuel rail, fuel injectors, purchased new fuel filter, and tested fuel pressure (which is good).
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My 2010 Acadia with ~53K miles had a fuel injector go bad. $1,200+ repair bill. I was told by the dealer service agent that when an injector goes bad it usually means it had an open circuit, and that is what happened to mine. Is there a known problem with the injectors? I have 5 more that could potentially fail and I am trying to determine the likelyhood this might happen again.
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92 GMC C1500 V6
No fuel to injectors, I have replaced pump, strainer and filters. Changed the filter first and ran fine with a few misses (likely no fuel?) then just got the new pump and strainer on today. Again drove fine with a few misses. Got down to the river to fish and went to leave and once again no fuel to injectors, sniffed the vacuum hose and it had no gas smell.
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I have honda civic 2005 with 170,000 miles on. My car has been little shaky with cold start in the morning and Engine light finally on. I was told that I need new fuel injectors from local mechanics. I'm a poor student so I decided to fix it myself. I was able to reach down to fuel rail and It was very challenging to take the rail & injectors out. After I finally pop them out with long driver/hammer, It is even harder to put new ones inside, all the way in. I tried put some oil at the end but still did not completely go in. Is there any special tool I need to use to put them in? I tried oils...ect.
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After changing a head gasket, I went to fire up and noticed three injectors are leaking where they meet the fuel rail. They weren't leaking before tearing everything apart and nothing was done to the rail other than moving it. From what I've searched, it sounds like O-rings. 2002 2.0 Jetta.
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A little background, daughter came home one day with a blown plenum gasket. Car sat untouched for a number of months before I got around to replacing the gasket. After the fix I have a no start condition.
I have been able to chase the problem to no signal to the fuel injectors. I had a momentary (1-2 secs) good noid light once but no light now. Good pump, filter, pressure at the rail, crank sensor, CMP, gas etc. I have also tried a new ECM but to no avail.
Codes I was able to pull were 111, 114, 116 and 327. All pretty much reflect things outside of the main problem such as low coolant temp and the like.
I think it is a ground in the injectors circuit but not sure. Also, how to proceed about checking the ground in the injectors circuit?
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I was curious as to how ambitious a project this would be and if special tools are needed.
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I just was given this truck the fuel pump was wired directly to the battery I ran new wire to a new relay to fuel pump using a toggle switch to turn the pump on. Now I'm getting no power to the fuel injectors does the pump relay also send power to the injectors.
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I have a f53 motorhome and 4 out of the 8 injectors pulse. The front 2 and the back 2 don't pulse. The middle 2 on both sides work perfect. Why would they not pulse and only give out positive on the two wires to the injector on the one that don't work. The ones that work they pulse.
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I recently bought a 94 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L. This is a Mazda engine built for Ford. There was a slight ticking noise from the engine. Two months later it has became worse and louder. I bought a mechanic stethoscope and found the noise was coming from two or more of the fuel injectors. New plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter was done when I bought it. Cleaner has been added to the gas a few times now. I am about to replace the belts and hoses, Bosch platinum plugs and fuel injector O-Rings. I just don't know if it will be enough.
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When the car is cold & first started, the high pitch noise by the fuel injectors is the loudest. When it warms up the noise is reduced quit a bit.
I thought maybe the fuel injector O-rings are bad, but the car idles and runs fine ( no error codes). Maybe the intake manifold gasket, but the car idles and runs fine. It is a weird noise.
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2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
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