Volvo :: 1989 740 Turbo Wagon Won't Start - No Noise From Fuel Pump
Mar 17, 2011
I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
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I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.
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OK, so I have a friend with a '89 Volvo 240 which has trouble starting. He usually can get it started by cranking and pumping the gas pedal furiously. This usually gets the car started quickly, although today it barely sputters (seems to want to start after lots of manic foot pumping, but ultimately fails).
I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.
Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.
Another problem he reports is that after driving a long distance (more than a few blocks) the starter won't run unless the engine sits for at least 30 minutes.
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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I'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo wagon. I just started having issues with the brakes lights and taillights not working. I have checked all the fuses visually and also did a continuity test on each one found all the fuses were good. I have replaced the all the relays, I have replaced the large red relay ( bulb failure relay ) and even did a continuity check on the bulb failure relay pins that are specifically for the rear brake light, everything checked out fine. I hesitate to change the brake light switch because the third brake light is working fine. I have considered replacing the headlight switch due to the taillights won't come on when the lights switch is on. My headlights do work though. There is no light on the dash indicating a bulb is out now since I replaced the third brake light bulb.
1994 Volvo 940 wagon
Non turbo
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My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
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My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Camry station wagon. I was driving it tonight on a slow neighborhood street and it just died. When I tried to start it back up, it won't start. I have power, all lights and things at full strength. When trying to start it it makes a high-pitched whirring screeching sound. I don't know where the starter is located, but the sound seems to be coming from around the spark plugs or behind/under them.
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1989 2.8L FI Celebrity Wagon. Normally runs fine (for 190K miles) but occasionally won't start. Turns over fine but make no attempt to start - like no fuel or spark. I'm guessing an electrical problem as it will start instantly and just fine a day or two later. Where to start looking for the problem?
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I have a 2000 V70/XC volvo with 95K miles. I began hearing a strange hollow noise, like a whistle blowing. I took it to the dealership where I bought the car and they said it was the fuel pump. I asked them if it was bad and needed to be replaced and the said they weren't sure about having it replaced right away. They said sometimes it will make that noise and the fuel pump could last for months and sometimes for years. They even suggested to just drive it until it fails then replace it. some say it could never go out. But it bothers me because it is the car that my wife drives daily taking kids around and running errands and so forth. I am always worried that she could get stuck somewhere anytime. So I am not sure what to do.
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Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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I have a 1997 Volvo 960 station wagon. It has been sitting in the driveway for 5 months. I went to drive it and it wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran but wouldn't hold a charge. The battery was about 7 years old so we went and bought a new battery. We took the old battery out and replaced it and now it does nothing. It won't start and there is no sign of power to the car at all.
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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I have a 1989 GMC suburban V8 350 5.7l that will not start. I have replace the following fuel pump and sending unit, fuel pump relay, ECM computer brand new, new fuel filter. When I go to start it the fuel injectors dont spray fuel into the combustion chambers verified fuel injectors still work by bypassing them and they spray fuel. Fuse's are not blown. I have been told the oil pressure switch might be bad but I'm at my end of sanity on this.
Additional Details : Tried spraying fuel into the throttle body and still no fire, ignition module and ignition coil where replaced 15,000miles ago.
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