Honda - Accord :: 2003 - Rattle And Squeak / Rear Strut Failure
Dec 13, 2012
I have had the right rear strut replaced three times in the last year and a half. The second time I also bought a new set of tires. It drove much smoother after that, however, it still has the following problem. When I'm driving on even a slightly bumpy street, it sounds like the right side of the backseat is loose. It rattles and squeaks. I've had the backseat removed each time I've replaced the strut and nothing is wrong there. Recently, I had some body damage repaired to the rear bumper and told the guy about this problem. He took out the backseat and found that with it removed and while being driven, it still made the same squeaky, rattly, loose sound and that the strut is still leaking. I have been avoiding bumpy roads and speed bumps.
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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I have developed a rattle in the right rear which appears to be coming from the rear strut. It is more pronounced at lower speeds, especially over potholes, and disappears completely at highway speed.
I'm thinking it may be a loose strut nut or housing assembly and want to inspect the strut. Is there a simple way to remove the back seat to allow access to the rear struts? 2007 ES350 ....
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The engine bolt in my 2004 Honda Accord broke off (while driving). The dealer repaired the car at the time because it was under warranty. I think this is an unusual event but wonder if my mechanic could have caused.
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The serpentine belt starting squeaking on cold and damp mornings about 18 months ago at about 60K. I replaced it with a Dayco belt, and the noise went away for about 6 months. When the weather turned cold last winter, the noise came back. So I changed the tensioner with both idler pulleys right about when the weather warmed up, and it was fine all summer. Now that it has gotten cold again, the squeak is back yet again and as before it goes away when the car warms up. I know it is the serpentine belt because when I spray it with water the noise immediately stops. I checked all the pulleys with the belt off and when I spin them I hear no noise. Is there something else it could be?
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The other day in our 2001 Honda Accord sedan, 4cyl, 140k miles, we were driving and the wheel became, how do you say, less attached to the car than it used to be? The wheel and the car had a nasty break-up and we were caught right in the middle of it. (see pictures) We were driving down a straight road, going straight, and boom, the wheel fell off and the car landed on one of the suspension bits . We were doing 30 and did fine. But we had literally just exited the freeway, where we were doing 70, a minute or two before this happened. Further, there was no noise, no vibration before this happened. The car was acting quite normally.
We had it fixed at a Honda dealership. We were on the road and it set us back $1070 and a full day. But there you are. So the problem is fixed, and I asked the dealership people to please inspect the other ball joints.
But...now I'm paranoid every time I drive the car. And I want to check them for myself. I read about the jack the car up and try and shake the tire trick. Is that foolproof? Is there more I can do to make certain that all the remaining bits that are supposed to be holding the wheel on are not, in fact, about to break?
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I have a 2010 CRV with approximately 10k miles. This is my wife's car primarily.
Recently I have started to hear a sound from the rear right of the vehicle. Its a 'thud' each time teh vehicle passes over a pothole. I'm guessing it has something to do with the strut/strut mount.
I bought the car new last year so its under the 3yr/36kmile warranty. Is thsi covered under the warrantly?
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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I have a Honda Accord 2004 Hybrid with 85,000 miles on it. My IMA and check engine light went on less than 2 months ago, and the dealer replaced the starter battery and it was "fixed". Less than 2 months later the same thing happened and the dealer claims that the hybrid battery is failing, need to replace it, and they can't do this anyhow because the part is backordered "indefinitely". Honda extended the hybrid battery to 80,000 miles but you are over the limit. So here's my question:
1. Can the car be driven without the hybrid battery, just using gas engine, without risk of getting stuck somewhere?
2. Is there any other remedy that would be less costly?
3. Was this a known problem that I should have been warned about when I bought the car.
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I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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Due to a failed rear differential pump motor (I believe that is the proper name) my car has been driving approx 6,000 miles stuck in 4WD. Long story how that was discovered, but that was verified by the Honda dealers repair shop. My feeling is that may have caused major issues that will creep up down the road. Short term my gas mileage suffered, and likely the tires are not wearing properly.
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My upper strut mounts have been failing after a year (about 12,000 miles, typical highway and local street driving, no off-road!). This seems to have started when I replaced shocks with Bilstein slightly stiffer variety. I also put a stabilizer bar on it at that time. Do you think the shocks are the fault? What else might I look for?
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So I bought and installed this.. [URL] ..... Everything seemed to go just fine, but now when I turn the wheel I get a rubber on metal type squeak out of both fronts, the right worse than the left. Is there a secret trick I didn't know about? Did I do something wrong?
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So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
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My 2008 Santa Fe (3.3 2WD) produces a knocking sound from the front every time I go on a bump while the wheel is turned. I can pretty much reproduce it at will. Occasionally, I hear the same sort knock from the rear as well, but I cannot confirm that it is consistent.
I do suspect that something is wrong with the struts. The only issue is that the car has 67k KM (41k miles), and to me, that seems a little early for that sort of thing to happen. My driving is pretty standard on standard roads, although winters up here tend to produce potholes that I sometimes cannot avoid.
I've had my struts fail on my last car (2000 Mazda Protege), but that was 9+ years old and with almost 3 times as much mileage on it.
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water leaks in under the rear seat when driving in the rain ,no rust spots but allso noticed thair is no mud flaps or any water gards around rear tires?
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Left rear window goes down normally but struggles to go up without support. Don't detect any binding and it is going straight. Would it likely be the motor or regulator.
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I've had a wet passenger side rear floor in my Accord for the past year now when I run the A/C. Two mechanics including a Honda dealership have told me the A/C drain is not plugged. One of them ran compressed air through the drain and it seemed to be better for about a week and then started again. How to investigate the matter further. The floor does not smell like coolant. It just feels like and smells like water.
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I got a call from the wife at work telling me the vehicle was making a loud noise when being driven. I told her it was a bit hard for me to diagnose since I was at work and to leave it parked till I got home. She really had to go out so she decided to drive it a short distance and come home.
I got home and discovered the drivers side spring was sitting on top of the inside of the front tire. The spring had done a superb machining job of the tire tread to the point I was amazed that the tire still held air. Anyway long story short the beast is in the shop having both front springs and struts,tires etc. being replaced. The spring actually broke.
I just bring this to the group as I did a search on google and this is not an uncommon, occurrence on these santys. We /she are just lucky this happened at a low rate of speed,as a highway speed incident like this would not have been pretty.
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We have a '99 Honda Accord EX. When it rains hard, water collects in the rear right taillight. We also have an electrical short somewhere - occasionally the lights on the heater/AC controls don't work, and the heat or AC will be stuck on the last setting we used until the lights come back on again. I finally put the two together the other day, after I realized that we don't get the short when it has not been raining.
I have three questions -
(1) In order to fix the water in the taillight problem, does that require replacing the entire housing unit, or is there a cheaper fix?
(2) If the housing does need to be replaced, is this something I could do without screwing it up? I used to do my own maintenance, but that was over 20 years ago, and I haven't even done my own oil changes since then.
(3) Is it possible that the water problem is what is causing the short in the electrical system?
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My wife was driving our 2003 Honda Civic hybrid (125,000 miles) and the electronic power steering went out. She managed to get it parked, called me, and when I arrived everything seemed to work fine. (She said the yellow EPS light came on, but she didn't know what that meant.) I drove it for a while and had no problems. A few days later my daughter was driving and the entire car shut down. I jump started it and everything worked OK, but I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis. They could find nothing wrong (no codes). However, the next day the car once again would not start I replaced the 'starter' battery (the lithium-ion man battery pack had actually been replaced at around 79,000 miles--right before the expiration of the warranty!).
Now it seems fine, but my wife and daughter refuse to drive it, and I'm not sure if the problem is fixed. Here are my questions:1. Since this is a hybrid, once the car is running a failure of the 'starter' batter should have no effect on the EPS, or anything else, right? It all runs off the main lithium-ion battery pack. However, replacing the 'starter' battery seems to have solved the problem--or at least a dead 'starter' batter is temporally (if not causally?) connected with the other failures. This might be just a coincidence, since seems odd to have the 'starter' battery part of the larger electrical set-up. The dealership had no clue and I can't figure it out.2.
The first time just the EPS went out, but the second time the entire car shut down. This doesn't make much sense--especially since the dealer couldn't pull any codes. The car's auto-stop shuts the engine off all the time at speeds below 10 mph (this is a semi-hybrid), so why the total shut down?3. Why didn't the dealership tell me the 'starter' battery needed replacement? I've checked my records, and it seems to be the one that came with the car in 2003 (actually fall 2002). Should I give up?
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