I drove my car through a puddle, and right after that, my check engine light came on and it hesitates to accelerate. What could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesSo i drove my car through a huge puddle and it stalled out on me! i pushed the car out to higher ground and let it sit. i started the car and it sounded horrible. checked the oil and no water is present on the dip stick. checked the coils and they are also dry. I deceided to check the spark plugs and once again dry. i took out the ecu to get it checked and once again they said it was dry.
I put it to the computer and I get random misfiring on cylinder 2 and 3. At time it fluctuates to 2 and 4.. I am at a stand still, what can this possibly be? White smoke does come out from exhaust but stops after a couple of mins. no smell to the smoke whatsoever so am guessing its just water stuck in the tailpipe.
The air filter was soaked and there was a lil water in the air intake i dried the filter and removed any moisture from the intake and still misfiring...
BTW its an 2007 ES350 ultra luxury edition
I drive a manual 2001 vr6 jetta. I drove through a huge puddle on accident. It was still pouring and I couldn't see it, plus I've never seen this section of road flood before. Anyway my car is lowered and I have a CAI. I sucked up water, hydrolocked the car and it bogged down and died.
The next day I got it towed home, took out the plugs and did an oil change(water came out for about 5 seconds followed by the oil) and got a new air filter. I then cranked the engine blowing most of the water out of my cylinders then sprayed starter fluid in the cylinders let it sit for about an hour and cranked again. Put it all back together started it up and it sounded fine. I just let it idle until it got to running temp then shut it off. Came out the next morning started it up let it idle to running temp again shut it off then went to pull the drain plug to see if I could get anymore water out and all I saw was cappuccino colored oil. So I did another oil change and so far it has stayed a nice golden amber color.
Everything seems to be fine other than my EPC light is on. My ASR light is on too right from startup and pushing the button does nothing. I also have a CEL for emissions workshop(before this instance) but that's just an O2 sensor. And lastly it's been hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.
I don't have any problems with acceleration or surging idle or bogging down. The only things I actually notice are the trans issue and not being able to turn on and off my ASR.
Could I have water in the trans? What can I do to fix this? I was planning on doing a fluid change. I'm completely lost with the ASR problem. Everything I've read so far I don't fit in the norm of problems. EPC? No symptoms at all just a light.
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.
View 3 RepliesIn the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
View 16 RepliesI have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
Engine light is on, Auto Zone has given me a code of P1491 it mentioned open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, failed EGR valve. There are times when I push on the gas or brake the car hesitates and gives a little jerk.
View 4 RepliesHonda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
My 2007, Honda Accord, 6-speed manual, 6 cylinder EX Coupe vibrates when I accelerate between the speeds of approx. 50-65 mph and then smooths out above that speed. Slightly higher when going uphill.
It only happens when accelerating and not if I'm just cruising without applying the power. My wheels and tires have been checked for balance and are in good shape. No bent rims, tires are in balance.
Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
I have a 2004 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles and automatic transmission. When I accelerate and the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th at slow speeds the car vibrates a little and it seems like the transmission slips. When I accelerate quickly, it seems like its okay and when i have it in D3 it is okay also no matter whether i accelerate fast or slowly.
View 2 Replies[URL] ....
2004 Honda Accord LX
Engine: 2.4 L
119,400-ish miles
See above video link.
I've been having this odd sound occur while I accelerate - sort of like a grinding sound (about 7 seconds into the video). It might be a bit difficult to hear over the other sound coming from my car... It occurs a lot more frequently when it's cold, when I'm accelerating, and when I am turning while I accelerate.
Also, the more obvious noise that occurs throughout the entirety of the video just began today. It does not occur while I'm stopped and it began when I stepped on the brake a little harder than usual...
I have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?
I bought a new Honda Accord v6. I drove it off the lot with 40 miles on it. The acceleration was fine when I bought it.
It now has over 500 miles on it, and the acceleration is terrible. When I'm at a stop light and the light turns green, it takes forever to get to 40mph unless I floor it. Honda Civics pass me at every light.
What could be the problem? I'm very concerned.
I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with 156k miles.
A couple days ago, the CEL came on. It drove fine, but if I accelerated it wouldn't shift smoothly. It felt like it was hitting the rev limiter.
I took it to get scanned, but the reader didn't work. On my way to another shop, the light went off.
Today, the light came back on with the same symptoms. No shops were open, so I disconnected the battery hoping to reset things, and it worked! No other issues on the way to work. Smooth shifts, smooth idle, simply normal.
Obviously there's an issue. Getting it scanned is a pain; AutoZone and the like cant scan in CA any more. What is the culprit? I'm guessing O2 sensor.
I have a 2005 Honda Accord 4 Dr. When I accelerate starting at 60 mph to about 70 mph, it seems as though my tire is vibrating yet after 70 mph everything seems to be ok. I feel like it's coming from the back, but can't really tell. I've replaced my tires, balanced them, rotated them, balanced them again, even had my front axle replaced because the mechanic thought the axle was the problem. Yet my issue still persists.
View 13 RepliesAll regular maint has been completed timely on my 2007 Honda Accord; however, I hear a honking noise (sounds like a goose) when I accelerate sometimes. I've taken the car in but there are no codes that come up and they don't know what's wrong with it. I thought it was traction system.
View 1 RepliesI'm driving a 97 Accord SE and it's suffering from a few issues that have me worried to say the least. For one, when I filled the radiator with water I noticed that it was cloudy/oily. Something was definitely in there with the water.
Two, I foolishly drove it thinking it would be fine. After 50 feet or so however problems started happening. I couldn't accelerate past 20mph. If I tried by putting my foot down on the gas nothing would happen but the RPMs going up. Each time I started the car I could go a little ways before pushing on the gas did nothing. Then I would have to restart the car in order to get anywhere with it.
Some background, I got my oil changed today after going about 1000 miles over when it should have been changed. Also, when it was scanned in the past the error code 0420 showed up. That has something to do with either the catalytic converter running rich or the O2 sensors above and below it might be broken.
I just had my 2003 Honda Accord Ex in the shop. I was without my car for a week. I broke down on the highway and had to have it towed, not once but twice. I took it to a reputable Honda/Acura repair shop. It turns out the ECU was corroded and the A/C drain was plugged up. I was not aware of the design of the Honda in this area, however, with the A/C unit being above the ECU in makes it easy to destroy the ECU if there is any problem with the A/C. Seems to me that Honda might have wanted to recall this to put plastic between the 2 to prevent the corrosion of the ECU or something, however, no such luck. The mechanic pointed out that the carpet on the passenger side was damp and to check it. Who would a thunk?
I got the car back yesterday. After running the diagnostic equipment they had to replace the ECU and ignition responders, put plastic between it and the A/C unit, replace the spark plugs (apparently the wrong ones were installed), and #4 coil, have the keys reprogrammed, replace the A/C filter and clean the A/C drain. Now here is the rub..I got it back and drove down the block. There was a high pitched whine or whistle sound that occurred when I accelerated. And the same sound when I took my foot off the petal as it was slowing down.
I immediately drove back to the shop and the mechanic and I took a drive. He had heard it also before I got it back. He mentioned it might be the transmission and that if it needs replacing. The car has 170,000 miles on it and it the past 2 months I have had new tires. He suggested I drive it over the long weekend (Labor Day) then make an appt to bring it in next week to have the transmission checked. So here is my concern, if it is the transmission will I do more damage by driving it? Will it get worse quickly and break down thereby leaving me stranded again? What is the best thing to do?
An independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).