Honda - Accord :: How Does Resonators Work
May 10, 2014
My exhaust decided to break off at the back of the resonator. The flex pipe has to be welded back on and I also have a 1x 2 hole on the exhaust pipe before the resonator, so I figured I'd just buy a replacement exhaust & resonator and be done with it. Well problem is the stock resonator is 18'' long and the one on the new part is only 8''. I'm certainly no expert on exhaust or acoustics, but won't the different size resonator make the car louder?
Questions: Will a different size resonator make my exhaust louder? How exactly does a resonator work?
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My '91 Accord is going strong -- bought it new in '91. A few years ago I removed the AC compressor after it failed and did not want to incur the cost to replace it. As a result the defroster does not work optimally. How to improve the defrosting without being able to run the AC?
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I have an 03 accord EX. The right turn signal doesnt work at all. I have changed the bulbs and the fuse. The left signal works just fine, while the right doesn't work front or back and the indicator light on the dash doesnt come on or click. Same happens when I put on the hazards. Its like there is no power at all to that side...
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I own a 1994 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Suddenly the Dashboard controls stopped working, and the shift lever wont shift out of Park unless I manually force it to shift by inserting key in to the slot beside the shift lever. I suspect it has something to do with the brake fuse. Where the break fuse is located.
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'92 Honda Accord
My car was getting 28/29 mpg when the water pump went. Afterward the work was done the mileage dropped to ~21 mpg. Going back to the place that did the work is not an option. A few months after the work I decided to do a tuneup to fix the mileage. A guy from the parts store came out to show me how to deal with the spark plugs and told me I needed a new valve cover gasket. When I went back to the place that did the work, they agreed I needed a new gasket and would do it for the full price. They also agreed that they had just replaced it when they did the original work. Even I know gaskets don't fail that quickly. So they did a foul job originally. What could they have done to kill the mileage?
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I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
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Finally got around to take a video. This is a muffler delete with stock resonators. I had the shop cut right where the axel back bolts up to the midpipe thus ridding of the factory crushed pipe.
RCF with muffler delete and stock resonators - YouTube....
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Last night I went to turn the fan on for the A/C and noticed the fan doesn't work. Figured it was a fuse possibly as it gave no indication of failure, it was just dead. I don't see a fuse for the blower (if it's there let me know where). I found a couple of threads showing how to do the diagnostics from the radio/control dash.. When I do that the "88" flashes 30+ times not giving any indication of a problem with the AC system.
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Honda Accord Special Edition - 72,000 mi.,4 cyl. auto - When I turn the control knob on to use fan or is it called the blower for A/C or heater nothing comes on. When I turn the control knob on with the cold motor not running and A/C button engaged (green light on) I hear the two fans under the hood come on for about 10 seconds and then shut off. Not sure if that is normal or it indicates something. I checked some of the fuses under the hood and under the dash. Could not find any that were bad.
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
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Most of the time my speedometer isn't working. my cruise control works the same way. i've read that it could be the cruise control module or the variable speed relay.
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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I am a happy owner of a 98 Honda Accord Lx (4 cylinder). This car and I have been through a lot. A few weeks ago I went into the dealership because the check engine light came on. They said I had no oil in the car, did an oil change, and sent me on my way. The following week I broke down after coolant came pouring from my car.
A different dealership said that there was an oil leak that compromised the hose carrying the antifreeze, which caused it to break, and as a result the thermometer broke. My first question... do I confront the first dealership that swore they checked & inspected everything to figure out why my oil was so low? Now, the question of MOST IMPORTANCE... The second mechanic that worked on it told me that the transmission was going. It was brought to my attention about 9 months ago that there may be a small leak in the transmission. Well, it still ran fine. Occasionally it wouldn't have the smoothest shift, but was nothing big.
Well, the same week the second mechanic mentioned this, and my need to start looking for a new car, the transmission is a complete mess! It jerks and won't shift as quickly, and I can't think of how to describe it easily, but when it jerks it does it multiple times.
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We have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2L We have been trying to get it to pass emissions since October. So far we have replace the gas cap, replaced the O2 sensor and replaced the EGR valve. Here are the readings 25/25 test 50/15 testHC ppm 17 29CO% .07 .20NO ppm 1162 1230 after replacing the O2 sensor but before the EGR the 25/25 side passed reading 1005CO+CO2 % 15 15
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I have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
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I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
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99 Accord, 160,000, automatic, 4cyl vtec, properly maintained.
Recently the CEL came on following an episode of the engine running poorly. It painted EGR code P0401 which is being dealt with, and, P1739: "third clutch pressure switch circuit fault." I investigated briefly in my Haynes and found that P1739 is one of the codes that will not trip the CEL.
I have not had any major issues with this transaxle. The fluid is at its proper level, Honda Z1 brand, and in good shape. I have it changed every 20,000 miles. Sometimes if I am driving along in 2nd gear, right around the upper speed limit before it would shift to third (20-25 mph), the car will jerk just a little but it is driveable. Could this be related?
Should I let this slide until something happens or should I get the to a transmission tech? What would you do? Could the thing go into limp mode one day without warning?
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My 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
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