I have an intermittent knock under the hood, only when idling at a light etc. One mechanic replaced the AC compressor, expansion valve, etc - still a knock. They put in a second new compressor - still knocking. A second mechanic replaced the expansion valve - still knocking. Air conditioner has worked fine from the start.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Honda CRV with 200K miles has a repetitious knock only when idling with the AC on, apparently the compressor clutch engaging and disengaging. The AC is cooling OK. I've had the compressor, dryer, and expansion valve replaced - twice - and the same knock continues.
View 1 RepliesThe truck starts fine and when it was idling just started this loud machine gun sound for a few seconds, then stopped, and then happened again. I turned it off, and now...? May or may not be related but the battery was dead yesterday. We jumped it quickly and drove it to let it charge. Had the battery checked and it tested good. The battery is only about 6 months old but it's been pretty hot here in southern NM so figured that was probably the cause. There was no check engine light. I did a search here and spark plugs were mentioned for a Ford, but not sure if that holds true for the Honda.
Honda Ridgeline RTL 2006
Last week I got back from a two week trip and came to turn on my car (95k miles) and I quickly noted a flat. Put the car in park to check it, and all of the sudden the engine is revving--1500rpm up to about 3500rpm and back down, over and over again. Put on my spare and headed to the shop. The whole way there, about four miles or so one-way, the car could hit 40mph without me on the gas. I turned the car on/off about five times, still having the same issue. In total, I drove about 25 miles with this issue, then, all of the sudden it seemed to be solved.
My mechanic seemed troubled by it when he took a look. No one could diagnose the issue, just had the air leak that caused the flat on a Saturday afternoon fixed, but I haven't taken it back to them because the issue isn't happening anymore.
This comes on the heels of taking it in and having the fuel relay fixed because of the well-documented issue with this car stalling on start with warm temperatures. That fix was supposed to take care of things, but the issue still persisted following the fix.
2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe....
I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
The wife drove the Excursion (V10) to work today and it ran normal and didn't have any loud noises coming from under the hood. When she started the engine to return home it immediately started knocking. This is not a ping, but a knock. Not a loud heavy knock, but much louder than a ping. It has a fast frequency, seems too fast to be a rod knocking. The frequency is similar to a valve issue, but the knock seems to be too heavy for lifters. Oil looks good. Just changed out 2 weeks ago. Truck is driven everyday.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1964 Lincoln Continental convertible that has an intermittent engine knock on the drivers’ side; it isn’t there when the engine is cold and does it only sporadically when it’s hot. The car was not driven for many years; when I bought it in 2010 the plates on the car expired in February 1974.
I’ve tried high octane fuel, lead additives, and heavier motor oil; the problem is a little better, but it still happens. What the cause and the solution is?
I have a '99 Dodge Stratus V6 with 125,000 miles. When I turn on the car, I can hear a hum when idling. When I start driving, I cannot hear the hum anymore (but maybe it's drowned out by other noises the car makes, or just the engine). It gets higher pitched as it slows down to idle, and a bit lower pitched if I step on the gas lightly. It has been slowly getting louder over the last few months. What could this be due to?
View 4 RepliesToday I noticed this burning smell under my hood and a bit of a engine knock on idle... It doesn't knock all the time tho ??
View 7 RepliesI am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
View 5 RepliesMy late 99 has 161K, I am the 2nd owner and bought from the Original owner. It is stock with no tunes. Auto/4wd.
It has had an intermittent idle knock and recently has gotten much louder recently when used heavily with towing for summer camping in the 7K range up steep hills. The knocking goes away above 12-1500 rpm. There is no noise when the engine is cold. It seems heavily temp/load/heavy use dependent. If driven lightly, the knock is quieter but still present. The trans was recently rebuilt and new billet converter installed, made no difference so it's not that it would appear.
I rec'd blackstone last week and the results are excellent. Running the cyl contribution test while hot in drive at idle reveals cyl 8 is running 4.9 to 5.4 Perdels. #3 is 2.2 to 2.8. 1,6,7 are 0. 2 is .6 and 5 is .4.... I haven't checked bolt torque yet. My question: Is #8 "fixable" potentially with bolt torque? Is it considered too far gone and should just be replaced?
I have a 2004 Camry (2.4 Ltr engine) with 120k miles on it. 2 days ago a whistling/whining noise began after I had been running errands & restarted my car after being parked for about 20 minutes.
If my car has been sitting and the engine is cold (like when I get up in morning to go to work) the noise doesn't start until it gets to the 3rd line above the "C" on the temp gauge. It's a constant sound while idling or driving, except when I am accelerating. The noise seems to be originating from around the alternator, but hard to tell exactly. I have no Check Engine, battery or other indicator lights showing. Other than this mystery noise my car is running fine.
Strong Gas Odor from under the Hood. Mechanic found no leaks. Contacted Subaru only reply I got was "how many miles are on the Car" and take it to a Subaru Dealer. Odor is intermittently.
View 5 Replies2003 2.4 base Santa Fe with 167k miles. It's having an intermittent stumble while idling and at take off once the engine is hot. I have replaced the plugs, coil pack, IAC, intake and cleaned MAF as well as replaced the PCV valve. Also checked and no vacuum hoses are misplaced or missing.
After some reading it appears it may be the EGR? I ordered it to replace just because I'm running out of things to try to replace without going to a shop.
Our 2003 Honda Pilot with 130K miles recently developed a front end Knock/rattle, which is sustained at about 70 miles per hour. Dealer "couldn't hear the noise". Tried new tires per dealer suggestion- fail! Recently we towed our 2100 lb pop up with it, and it was MUCH louder, and of course sustained at lower speed. Should we even be towing a pop up with a vehicle that has this many miles on it?
View 2 RepliesI have a '03 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport thing with the 2.5L boxer engine, standard, with 160,000 miles.There is an intermittent starting and idling failure that i thought started because of the colder weather rolling in(25 at night 35 during the day). When I turned the ignition to start it, there was a huff, it sounded like it would start, but it would simply shut down after about one second. If I depressed the throttle it would run at 1.5k rpm but only with my foot on the pedal. If i took it off it would die. Here's where it gets odd. The other night I had been getting rid of some rust on the undercarriage and so i kept the car indoors overnight. In the morning it started fine, and ran fine for an hour. I parked it and went to run an errand. 20 minutes later when i got back into my car to start it, still warm, it was 49 degrees outside, i started it and it went dead again. The same happened two days later after I had driven it out of the garage, I drove it for about 20 minutes, got out for less than five minutes, and when i got back in, it did the same thing twice. My uncle says it could be a hose leak.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT. A few days ago, my battery went dead when parked and listening to the radio. The terminals looked corroded but we jumped it and it was fine. Monday, my friend removed the connections and cleaned the terminals. The next day, I noticed that upon starting it, there was a noticeable rattle coming from the rear area of the car. Once I hit the gas, it's fine, and after a 50 min interstate drive it seemed fine. However, leaving work today it happened again-- a rattling when stopped at red lights or stop signs. Once I hit the gas it goes away, but starts on again as I slow to a crawl. Is the battery issue a red herring? What could be the cause of this?
View 15 RepliesMy 2013 Accord V6 EX-L with 5,000 miles emits a strange sound, under certain circumstances. The sound is hard to describe but reminds me of the old days when your engine would "ping" or "knock" if you used gas with too little octane. Of course, the current Accord only requires regular gas. At any rate when cruising between about 45 and 60 MPH, if you push on the accelerator (not enough to cause a downshift) and especially if on a small incline, you hear a very distinct knocking or rattling sound. Over the past 6 months, the sound seems to become more frequent and noticeable.
I have been to the dealer and the service manager drove the car and agrees he hears the sound. But after consulting with Honda engineering they concluded it is "characteristic" of this engine. They say it emanates from the "paddles" (??) within the automatic transmission vibrating or rattling. After being told that, I drove 2 other 2013 V6 Accords on their lot, and they both made the same sound. My question is, do any other owners notice this? I find it very distracting and also disappointing after paying so much for a new vehicle only to own something that strikes me as deficient.
How can Honda produce and distribute a vehicle with this annoying and obtrusive characteristic? It is hard to believe they did not catch this and fix it during product development. I even drove a 2014 V6 Accord last week and could just make out the beginnings of this same sound, so apparently it was not engineered out for 2014. This makes me lose confidence in long term ownership of the vehicle as well as fearful of potential future transmission problems.
My cousin has a 2011 honda civic ex A/T and when he lets off the gas his transmission makes a quick knock noise. It's not too loud but it's very noticeable. Shifts fine and everything. Also it sounds like he is forcing his transmission from park to reverse. We hear a lot of noises not so much grinding noises but a lot of movement I guess you could say. But it engages quick. Is this normal or should we take it in? I have had multiple people tell me it's all normal. But it doesn't sound normal to me.
View 4 RepliesMy car developed an "intermittent" accelerator whistling noise coming thru one of the speakers (I think). The harder you accelerate - the louder the whistle. When idling, it sounds like an open air whirring noise. Of course every time I bring it to the shop - it stops and when I hear it it's never convenient to get to the shop!
View 4 RepliesI have an '08 Ranger, automatic. For the last several months, the truck has been making an intermittent high-pitched squeal/whine, but only after it has been warmed up (10--15 minutes driving) and only while it is idling. As soon as I'm driving, the whine stops; whine will occur both in drive (but stopped) and in park. The whine will not happen every day I drove, nor will it happen at every stop. When it does squeal, the squeal will fade in and out in volume.
An interesting kicker I've found recently: it seems to be dependent on electrical draw. For example, if I'm sitting idle with the lights on, and the truck is squealing, and then I turn the lights off, it suddenly squeals less. Still squeals, but less than with the lights on.
I have had mechanics check all the usual suspects, belts, etc, but have not found anything amiss. Nor can I actually get the squeal to occur when I visit the mechanics.