My husband likes to shift into first gear as he's coming to a stop (either sign or light). I think you shouldn't put it in first until you're at a complete stop. He says he's not doing any harm as long as the clutch is engaged.
View 19 RepliesI found today that when I depress and release the brake while my car is in park, there is a clicking sound coming from the gear shift. It only occurs in park and other works fine. I have done some research and some say that it is the solenoid in the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock.
if this is the case? If it is, is this something that I should get fixed and could fix myself? I am fine with the clicking, I just don't want to not be able to shift the car into and out of park.
No problems and then at 82000 with no warning, the clutch froze and wouldn't go into gear. I coasted into the dealer and learned, after analysis, that one spring had broken. The clutch still had 40% on it, but one spring had snapped. I saw it. They replaced with a Honda Clutch disk with new pilot bushing, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, pressure plate, and manual transmission fluid. This description is taken from the invoice.
So, my question is, could my driving have caused this? A friend, the other day, said I am waiting too long to shift to 2nd and it could cause the problem, he thought. I usual shift around 3000, but now am shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15mph per manual. I thought the only problem with delaying shifting was poor gas mileage, as long as I didn't go into red, which I don't. I want to prolong the life of this new clutch and want to make sure I am treating it gently.
I got new brakes pu ton lats month (semi-metalic). Any way I was driving to work and it was raining , roads were wet and my car was shifting weird after coming to a complete stop. once i went it would shift into first gear hard. I took it to a mechanic but he couldn't find a problem.
Then it was fine, no problem but today it was raining an dmy car did the same thing. Anytime I went when a light turned green or his the gas after being at a stop sign. the car would stutter as it shifted into first gear. like it would go , then act like it was stuck and then shift
It has only happened twice and its both been raining. Also my tires are really really bad.
Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
I have a 2011 Sonata with 4,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed that when coming to a stop, I hear a light thump noise in the center console area near the gear shift lever. If I put my hand on the gear shifter, I can feel it move ever so slightly at the time of the noise. The noise is very repeatable. If I take my foot off the brake and start rolling and then I reapply the brake (either softly or hard) it will make the thump noise. It is not very loud and can be drowned out with loud music, but if listening to news, it is very noticeable and annoying in city traffic, where stops are very frequent. I put the car up on ramps and looked underneath and did not see anything noticeable. It will probably require the center console between the seats to be removed.
View 14 Replies2002 Honda CRV. Has 62,000 miles. When 1st started there is a noticeable hard shift from 1st to 2nd. If you drive a short distance, say 2 blocks and come to a stop and take off again it shifts smoothly, will shift fine the rest of the in town stop and go driving. ( Does not matter cold or warm ) If you shut off the vehicle for just 5 minutes. the same thing happens, a noticeable clunk shifting 1st to 2nd. Do notice that the rpms do go up past the normal shift rpm, so if you let up on the accelerator it will not clunk or hard shift. Trans oil has been changed, did not notice anything in the drain oil. Fluid was normal color.Does this transmission have a filter that should be changed? Did some on line looking and see some mention of a linear solenoid?
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
View 5 RepliesI have an old (mid-'90s) Honda Odyssey that has generally worked great. Yesterday, it struggled to get up an icy driveway (since it does not have four-wheel drive) and once at the top seemed to to disengage from fourth gear into neutral, though it was still in fourth. After turning off the car and restarting, it engaged fine.Today the same thing happened on a level, non-icy surface after a few minutes of driving at slow speed. Is it possible to avoid this problem by driving in a lower gear to begin with?Any repairs would likely cost more than the car is worth, but I want to keep driving it -- safely -- as long as possible.
View 16 Replies'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
The "D" on my 2004 Honda Element has been flashing lately. It has been happening occasionally for the past couple of days. Most of the time when I notice it, I stop, restart the car, and then it stops flashing. The flashing also continues even when it's in park or reverse. Most people on other forums say that it is a transmission issue so what specific transmission issue it is most likely.
View 7 RepliesI put my Honda Element in storage for 6 months while traveling. Upon my return I found the battery was dead (expected that) and have that fixed, But, the big problem is the engine light is on steadily, and the car hardly drives. It "pulses" , or wants to go, even with brake on. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights, as I am afraid it may take off. When idling, it pulses. I accelerated while in neutral and the highest i could get it to go was 5k, pulsing the entire time. Someone suggested I put a product into gas tank called Heat.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Element with 115,000 miles. The transmission is going. Is it worth it to put another transmission in it? How long does a rebuilt transmission last?
View 4 RepliesThree times this winter my car failed to start on cold mornings after sitting in the garage all night. When I return later, it starts perfectly. I have all the interior light turned off. Even though my battery and alternator checked out OK, I went ahead and replaced the battery. The connectors were cleaned and scuffed up for better connection. I had my brake pads replaced last week and once again they said the electrical system and battery were good. This is such a mystery as it only fails to start 1 out of 100 times.
View 1 RepliesWhenever I am on wet pavement, and even on a slight incline, my Honda Element shudders a bit before grabbing the pavement. I have the original tires that came with the - used - car, which I bought three years ago. It's not a big problem, but is a slight irritant. Is it a problem with the tires or something more serious?
View 9 RepliesMy 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased a 2012 Golf Sportline 2.5 auto. I also currently own a 2006 Jetta and 2008 Rabbit both 2.5 automatics. Both older cars run and drive great with this engine and tranny combination for me. However with the 2012 I really notice a throttle delay when accelerating from a stop and a very early shift into 6th gear when in the gear selector is in drive mode causing engine lugging. Shifts into 6'th at 60 kph doing 1100 RPM.
This I find is very annoying compared to my other two VW's which have better throttle response and shift a little later into 6'th allowing the engine to turn at 1400 RPM allowing for better acceleration without having to kick it down a gear.
I have taken it back to the dealer hoping for a ECM flash update but nothing is available from VW and my vehicle ECM has all other current settings and updates. I ve looked into aftermarket solutions such as the Sprint Booster which allows for a more responsive pedal but based on my other VW's my 2012 should not preform like this.
I have a 2002 Accent 1.6 with 187000 km on it. I started noticing over the last month that when I shift into second gear the car seems to stop powering the wheels temporarily. Once the RPM's pick up (around 2200) the problem goes away. This seems to only happen when I originally shift into second and the RPM's are lower. If I accelerate slowly then the lag usually won't happen, but if I push down more on the gas then you can really notice the lag.
The spark plugs only have 15000 km on them, air filter is new, just replaced the fuel filter, oil was just changed (synthetic) as well as the filter, and I just recently cleaned out the throttle body. I have also seemed to notice a loss of overall power since at highway speeds since this problem started. The engine doesn't lag when I'm in 4th or 5th gear on the highway, but it seems to have less power when I'm accelerating on the highway.
Honda Element 2003 187K miles ... The problem started awhile ago when I went out of town for 4 days and came back and the care would not start. It has been getting worse now to the point that it is less than a day and I have trouble starting it up. I will have to jump the battery to get the car going. The Honda service center has checked the battery and alternator several times and they are good. I keep thinking it is an electric problem but i can turn everything off and it still happens.I really can not afford a car note and I have kept up with all my on schedule maintenance for the car. I have had to redo the motor mounts before, brakes, and fuel gauge switch in the last year. The dealer is suggesting to replace the alternator anyway but why if their test says it is ok. The battery has been replace in 2010 also.
View 3 RepliesMy 2008, standard transmission, Honda Element just turned over 100,000 miles recently. Over a year ago the engine started making a "hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr" noise and shaking the whole car while I'm sitting at a light or stop sign without touching the gas pedal. If I turn the air on it will stop, but starts up again if I turn the air back off. It doesn't do it all the time, and of course didn't do it when I took it to a mechanic to have it checked out in June. They hooked it up to check for engine codes, and got nothing, so they weren't really sure what to fix since they couldn't make the engine do what I was describing. They did bring a whining noise the engine is making to my attention, and suggested replacing the alternator and 2 associated belts in the engine. While they were in there fixing things, they noticed the lubrication looked contaminated - like water had somehow gotten inside - but couldn't say how.
Unfortunately, my car is pretty much right where it was before visiting the mechanic - only now I notice the constant whining that gets louder when I press the gas pedal, as well as the occasional shaking and "hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr." People who ride with me notice the whining too, and whenever the engine starts shaking they think I should have it looked at. to which I reply, "yes, I have. fat lot of good it did me."
Cylinder 2 Change plugs, change injector, change Cat and Change OX senor, check compression 165 psi Still can't get this misfire engine light problem to go a way.
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