I have a 01 Honda Odyssey and I am getting no heat in the front of the van. In the back I can get heat just fine. Also the front blows on all setting, just cool air. I am wondering, what it might be and what I can check.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Odyssey that doesn't start sometimes - mostly when it's really cold but not exclusively. It doesn't seem to matter if the gas tank is full or empty. It turns over fine and will catch and the die multiple times. There is sometimes a large "clunk" while it is turning over and all the lights will go off and then it will start turning over again. It can take a minute to 15 minutes to start when it isn't starting but about half the time, it start right up. This is only in the morning, once it's going for the day, it works. 126,000 miles, timing belt changed a couple of years ago.
View 5 RepliesThe heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
View 5 RepliesOnce the car reaches about 80 miles per hour, a buzzing/humming noise is emitted from the front of the car. I can't tell whether it's from the dashboard area or the footwell area, but it sounds like it's coming from below. There seems to be an exact speed where the noise stops and ends. The car does not shake or vibrate when the noise occurs.
The noise has happened twice. Not coincidentally, those were the only two time the car has been above 75 or so miles per hour within the past few weeks. I have looked on some forums for similar happenings, and I found the answer could be bad wheel bearings.
Other problems with the car include a very-vibraty engine between 1000 & 1500 RPM, a gurgling noise at low speeds/idle, and harsh shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
I've posted a video on YouTube of the car making the noise. It's a little hard to hear the noise in the video: [URL] .....
Front Blower Motor does not work. 2005 Honda Odyssey, EX-L130,000 miles and I expect at least 170,000 miles more.
History – Over the past four years, the front blower motor has operated intermittently. I noticed that when the weather went through large changes (warm/humid to cold/dry or vice versa), the fbm would not run. The system behaved in the manner described by Honda owners in many of the forums online. After a period of time passed, the blower would function properly again until the next weather change.
About two months ago, the blower stopped working again and it has not returned to form since. The system again displays all the usual symptoms reported on-line. The rear blower works fine.
The controls on the dash seem to be fine (display changes appropriately as I select settings, vents open and close for heat or A/C or which vents I want open). Air flows through the vents selected when I am driving – I have a passive windshield defroster!
Here are the steps that I have taken during the past week:
1.Bought a new transistor/resistor module, OEM Honda Part #79330-SDG-W41 (I checked with a local dealer for the correct part number). I installed it but there is no change in the system.
2.I found information on-line to test the T/R. I checked the old one – Thermal Cut Out is intact and the resistance between posts 3 & 4 (lower pair when installed) is 1,500 ohms. I checked the new transistor and it read out the same.
3.Fuses, relays, power to the blower, blower, ground beyond the transistor are all fine.
4.I reconnected the T/R and fbm and let the fbm lay on the car floor. I started the car with the fan on. Each time I start the car (or turned the ignition ‘On’) the fbm tries to run, but stops in an instant.
The Rat is cornered – it's in the the T/R and the control signal from the control panel to the T/R corner. If I bypass these elements, the fbm goes on and off as I select the fan On/Off from the control panel.
2001 Honda Odyssey 200k miles
recent (1-month-old) changes: a-new alternator-new a/c generator
What is happening:1) starting the car all instrumental dash lights stayed on and only very slowly cleared. This happened all the time I started the car.2) All red lights (brake, battery, and all doors open) start turning on together quite often.3) And I see a dropping in 'power' voltage. Like my headlights are getting darker. The headlights are also buring out quite often,
I went toan AAA mechanic and they checked the car and found nothing. And he said he did nothing.Since then all instrument dash lights turn off at normal speed.But all the red lights still light regularly. But less than before.This (the red lights lighting) happens more often if A/C in on. Less if the only fan is on. And even less while driving - usually when slowing down.
I have a well-maintained 2001 Honda Odyssey EX with about 162k miles. It's had all of it's recommended maintenance at the recommended intervals. And until lately all of that maintenance was done at the dealership. Of note, the transmission was replaced by the dealer at around 100k miles. Other than fit-and-finish issues it runs great.
Over the past few months, I've had issues with it starting. The key will turn, everything "lights-up" as it should, I hear the engine crank normally, but it just won't start. I do this 2, 3, 4, 5 times over a few minutes and finally, it starts. When it does start it runs fine. Sometimes this happens several times in a single day. Sometimes it goes for 1-2 weeks without it happening at all. I've tried to make a note of when this occurs to see if there is a pattern. Unfortunately, I've not come across anything obvious. The engine can be cold or hot. Rainy weather, dry weather. (I opened the hood and sprayed it down with the hose, it started no problem at all.) I've paid attention for the "immobilizer" indicators and I don't see that either. No check engine light. No codes.
A friend suggested that when this occurs to sniff for uncombusted fuel in the exhaust -- I did not smell anything. I suppose this suggests that it's a fuel issue and not a spark issue. I've taken it to my trustworthy local mechanic, and they a) couldn't recreate the problem, and b) couldn't find anything wrong. For good measure, they removed and cleaned the throttle body, but that didn't work.
I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and no air blows out of the rear AC ceiling vents, however the AC does work and blows cold air out of the front dash vents. I set the control (in the front) to have AC in the rear, but no air in the back. I do hear a click when I move the front controls from low to medium to high (blue dots). What might be the issue?
View 6 RepliesThe coolant is leaking from the gasket that is on the front of the engine. My repair guy suggested that I also do the timing belt at the same time. Do I have any other options? The Honda has 217,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesFor over 3 years, my 2001 Honda Odyssey transmission has had a whine, gradually increasing in volume. The pitch increases with speed, not RPMs because it continues to increase pitch when it shifts and reduces RPMs. There are no performance issues, and there are no error codes when hooked to the computer. The transmission was put in at 93,000, 80,000 miles ago. Had fluid flushed and replaced with no effect.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
I have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
View 6 RepliesIts a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
View 4 RepliesWhen parked nose down in a steep (and narrow) driveway, was unable to get it into gear to back out. After many, many tries it finally got into gear and backed up. Seems to be working fine otherwise. Needless to say, no more parking in the driveway, What do you think it will take to repair this??
View 5 RepliesHave no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
View 10 RepliesFront wheel looks pushed back and not aligned correctly. I figured I hit a nasty pothole.
Mechanic #1 says the control arm needs to be replaced.
Mechanic #2 says the strut needs to be replaced. No comment on control arm.
Could it be both? Or neither?
I want to replace the auto trans coolant lines on my 2001 F150 4.2L. I discovered I can actually see the top coolant line flare nut from outside the right wheel well, with the wheel and wheel liner removed. The lower line is just a few inches below. See photo, it's a little off, so the line connector is not seen:
The heat shield is just a little bit in the way for my hands, I have to put one through the red circled area. A 1/2" hex head bolt holds the shield to the frame (circled in green). This was easy to remove from the wheel well. After that the heat shield could be moved slightly away from the points I need to access.
I would prefer to unfasten the shield & move it out of the way for my hands. I found another bolt holding the rear end of the shield down to the frame, wasn't able to remove this - the bolt fastens to a U-nut in the frame that broke off & has trapped the bolt. Are there any other bolts fastening the heat shield down?
I was able to remove the old flare nuts with a 5/8" flare nut wrench, but have not been able to start the new nuts into their fittings, just not quite enough visibility and access.
I have a 2001 Honda Civic, 4 door, 144K, original owner, 5 speed transmission with brand new tires and new brakes all around. Whenever going around a sharp curve, there is noise coming from the back, almost as if the tire is scraping the wheel well. The new tires are the same size as the OEM tires that came with the car brand new. My thought is perhaps work out shocks?
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