When parked nose down in a steep (and narrow) driveway, was unable to get it into gear to back out. After many, many tries it finally got into gear and backed up. Seems to be working fine otherwise. Needless to say, no more parking in the driveway, What do you think it will take to repair this??
View 5 RepliesI own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 01 Honda Odyssey and I am getting no heat in the front of the van. In the back I can get heat just fine. Also the front blows on all setting, just cool air. I am wondering, what it might be and what I can check.
View 2 RepliesI checked the owners manual and didn't see anything. I've noticed that when I stop on a hill and let off the brakes the car doesn't roll back. Its holding the brakes for me on an incline, I am assuming its normal, but kinda surprised I didn,t see anything in the owners manual or on the window sticker about it
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Civic, 4 door, 144K, original owner, 5 speed transmission with brand new tires and new brakes all around. Whenever going around a sharp curve, there is noise coming from the back, almost as if the tire is scraping the wheel well. The new tires are the same size as the OEM tires that came with the car brand new. My thought is perhaps work out shocks?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Camry and I noticed that when I am on a slight upward hill, my Camry will slowly roll back if I don't have my brake pedal applied. Does this happen to you and is it normal? This is my first new car and my old car which was a 94 lincoln never did this even on very steep hills.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1998 Range Rover. I had 22's put on it for 1 week until I was able to buy regular tires for it. While I had the 22's on I went down a hill going 45 mph, the car began to shake back and forth severely, I thought the tire was about to fall off. Ever since then it squeals when I accelerate, and clicks when I turn left and right. I've had the belts looked at. I have no clue.
View 9 RepliesIs it normal for the GX 470 to roll backward on a slight hill when in drive and foot off the brake?
View 3 RepliesOn a steep hill, mine rolls back when the transmission is in high range, but it does not roll back when it's in low. On a mild incline, mine does not roll back when the transmission is in high.
VIN: '04 43xxx; latest tranny flash ("520" was the number, I think).
Was driving the other day and it just died and wouldn't start back up. It has fire and is getting gas. It's a 4.0 Sohc...
View 3 RepliesThe other day my transmission was driving fine, until I stopped to let someone out. When I tried to throw it back into gear, it wouldn't engage at all, just had a slight grind almost like the sound of a chain coming off a bike (so I pushed back in the clutch and parked it). I haven't been having any issues with it nor have I been driving it hard.
View 2 RepliesDriving yesterday, (slowly down bumpy gravel road). My 2005 Prius locked up, the red BRAKE and the yellow (ABS) indicator lights came on. The car wouldn't go forward or back. I tried setting the emergency brake then releasing it - nothing. Still couldn't go forward or backward. I shut it off, turned it back on, nothing, tried setting the emergency brake then releasing it - I finally was able to drive, but the indicator lights were still on and when I tried to brake, there was nothing, nothing, nothing, then BAM the brakes grabbed and locked up. (This happened several times in a few blocks as I was cautiously trying to test the car out.)
I parked got out my owners manual which said "STOP, contact Toyota Dealer" so I had my car towed (first time ever for her to be towed) to my mechanic (he's out hunting, so someone else at the shop looked at it.)
The shop called and said it was showing a code of 1247 and said that it was a "malfunction of the brake pedal". They said they cleared the code and the lights went out. Their mechanic is going to take it for a test drive trying several 'braking scenarios'. (they better not wreck my car).
*1996 Honda accord LX. 255, 498 miles.
Well, a couple months ago I think I overdid it on the seafoam spray in my PCV valve. It was kind of hell to start, I put some starter fluid in there and it finally cranked right over. I thought that was the end of it, but now I'm thinking it was a coincidence.
Today I went to start my car and it wouldn't rev up to about 200 max out and then drop. If I stopped cranking it with the key, it would die. Well I put starter fluid in the car and it still wouldn't go! I had to crank it for about 12 seconds to get it to turn over, normally when the engine catches(My foots full on the throttle when it won't start) it soars to 2.5k RPMs pretty quick. I started it later at school and it acted like it wanted to give me trouble, but a second past and it turned over and started running. I pull into the driveway today and I see my oil light flickering a little bit. First time I've ever seen it, a little worried! I turn the back on, starts up right away, to see if the oil light comes back on and nothing. But still worried.
I also got a coolant leak somewhere that I haven't been to diligent about finding. I don't see coolant anywhere on the driveway, my cars drinking coolant and I don't know where it's going. I checked it the other day and the reservoir tank was bone dry and so was the top of the radiator. I just added some UV dye to see where it's going, UV flashlight is on the way.
Stereo cut off, battery light came on, windshield wipers got week, car shut off and wouldn't turn back on. Jumped and immediately died, found blown etcs fuse, replace got vehicle home. The next day the stereo turned off again so I went to get new fuses and the car turned off again. Fuse wasn't blown, had battery and alternated checked and they've been tested as being fine. Ran diagnosis and got 2 codes related to pcv valve and throttle body which I'm assuming came from going into limp mode once I got 2 blocks from my house.
View 4 RepliesSo over the past few months, my passenger side seat has been giving me some issues. When I pull the latch up to get into the back, sometimes the seat wouldn't click back into place when pushing it back down, it would just 'bounce'. After playing with the lever, up +down, eventually it would lock back in place. Yesterday however, I could not get it to lock in place, it just keep popping back up.
The seat also no longer folds forward, it is stuck in the _l position..
I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
Just yesterday I was driving my 2012 Cvic down a hill and the battery and oil light came on. Not but 5 seconds later as I came to the bottom of the hill my brakes went out (the car didn't cut off) so I pulled up the parking brake and cut the car off.
I started to call for roadside assistance but before I did I thought to try to start her up again and boom! Everything works fine! What could have caused this?? Computer system in the car? Brake fluid? Also just two weeks earlier I had full minor service on her. Tire rotation, oil/filter change, brake fluid added etc.
I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
Just recently i have noticed my truck acting up. the other day at about 10 to 20 mph i made a 90 degree turn and noticed my steering wheel wouldn't return but i had to bring it back. than this morning the same thing happened. I made a 90 degree left hand turn and it happened again. the truck wanted to keep going left but i kept turning right. it almost feels like my power steering pump is going out. The pump was changed about 4 years 90k miles ago. I'm curious to see what others have to say. What could it be????
View 14 RepliesI have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
View 11 RepliesOk truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
View 8 Replies