When I had my oil changed, I was told that a "Main Bolt" needed to be replaced because it was starting to leak oil. He said that there was a sealant of some type on it that was wearing away and that even though I see no evidence of an oil leak, I would soon. He said that one of the axles would have to be removed to replace it.
View 10 RepliesI noticed oil on my garage floor from my 2002 Honda Accord V6 and thought the dealer hadn't tightened the oil pan bolt. The dealer charged me to diagnose that the dripping oil came from a main bearing cap side bolt. It seems the bolt threads, aren't sealed at the factory and to fix the problem the dealer will remove the bolt, clean it, then apply Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket to the threads and washer contact area. I have to leave the car for 24 hrs for the sealer to dry before staring the engine. Bolt to be removed, cleaned, sealed and replaced. Is this a recall item?
View 12 RepliesThe coolant is leaking from the gasket that is on the front of the engine. My repair guy suggested that I also do the timing belt at the same time. Do I have any other options? The Honda has 217,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesMid- july I had the compressor rebuilt when the A/C suddenly started blowing warm air one week prior to a 1200 mile road trip.
Two weeks later the car wouldn't start. The battery (still under warranty) checked out as "good" was charged up and started the car fine. It needed an oil change before we headed home and the lube shop said that the coolant was low. I mentioned that I thought this was strange since I just had the compressor fixed and the guy and the quick lube just shrugged and I paid to top off the coolant. The next morning we set out towards home- 1200 more miles.
About 100 miles into the trip I noticed the A/C didn't seem to be blowing very cold. It was cool. Not cold. It was better after we stopped the car for lunch and that lasted for about 5 miles. When we stopped, our car was leaking copious amounts of fluids from both the engine and the passenger rear side of the car. By about 300 miles into the trip, the rear AC wasn't blowing at all. By 500 miles in NOTHING WAS BLOWING. Still leaking tons of fluids. Seemingly water.
We drove through the night with complaints of heat from the kids. Parked the car in the driveway. I moved the car into the garage... and I turned on the A/c to see if it was now working. The engine started to scream and smoke was rising from the hood. This didn't stop when I turned off the A/C.
The next morning, the battery was dead again. I had it towed to our mechanic. Other than the battery he could find nothing wrong. No noises. no smoke. A/C blowing AND it's blowing cold. Possible leak from the compressor (which I told him was under warranty from the guys who put it in and asked him not to touch it). They charged the battery.
I drove it to the A/C guys (A/C is blowing fine). They admit the A/C isn't as cool as one might hope. They drive it. Seems fine. Possible Coolant leak, but it's raining and they can't find the leak. They keep the car overnight. The Battery is dead the next morning. They replace the battery with a loaner. I'm desperate for my car. I pick it up and agree to bring it back in a few days to have them check the coolant levels and the battery.
NOW... Car starts, but it seems sluggish. The car revs like a formula 1 race car from 1st gear through 4th (maybe). The A/C is blowing cold (What the?? Blowing and cold?). Still leaking a lot of fluids (condensation?). Why? AND the check engine light has never gone on. What is wrong with my car???
I wanted to bring attention to an oil leak I discovered today. It appears to be from the rear main seal. My Passat is a 2015 1.8Tsi with the 09G auto. You can see the leak with the belly pan on. From the front of the car, looking through the vent for the transmission pan look at the lowest point on the bellhousing there is a small machined flat area. Pictured is that area (with the pan off). There is also oil on the back side of the bellhousing on one of the main bolts between the block and trans. The three rear bolts on the pan need to come off to see that one. I would recommend looking at this area on your Passat. Currently my Passat has 3,490 miles on. It's not a terrible leak, but it is worse than what should be present on a modern, new vehicle.
View 16 RepliesAre there any additives that really work on oil leaks. I think i have a rear main leak. I havent even crawled under there but seen oil on the pavement...
4.0 Jeep Wrangler160,000 Auto
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
View 6 RepliesMy girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
View 7 RepliesI just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
View 4 Replies2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
A warning came on the display with the words "PS Main" and a picture of a battery. I took it to a dealer and he gave me the bad news: I allegedly need a new hybrid (main) battery. The diagnostic code was P3009--I didn't know about sub-codes, so I didn't ask if there were any. P3009 means that there is an electrical leak from the main battery.
View 9 Replies2014 RX 350 - 8700 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak
Very disappointed that my new RX with only 8700 miles and has never even had an oil change now has a rear main seal leak. The dealership says that the gasket was defective and that there is no other visible damage. The dealership has filed a case with Lexus corporate.
Granted that it will soon be fixed at no cost to me, it's still very disappointing that a brand I hold so high for quality has let me down in such a big way.
Brief back story, a year ago my timing belt went and had to replace the cylinder head and all associated parts. No problems since then, until now. Recently the check engine has come on, and got the code for an exhaust leak. Can't remember the exact code number, but the leak wasn't causing a lean condition or causing the engine to act weird so I left it until I had to time to find the leak. On the way home today I noticed an exhaust leak that got increasingly worse to the point where at a stop light I'd go to accelerate and it would pull away very sluggishly. Got home, opened the hood and tracked down the exhaust leak to somewhere around the manifold/downpipe/turbo area. I took off my cover and noticed what could be a bolt missing, and upon further inspection a bolt that may be coming loose.
Here's what I'm referring to:
- Missing bolt?
- Loose bolt missing bolt?
- Loose bolt?
2014 RX 350 - 10,300 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak #2
Brought car into the dealership to repair my rear main for a second time. Looks like every 5,000 miles the leak shows up.
The dealership has repaired the rear main seal a second time, and guess what?
Two days later at the dealership the car started leaking oil again.
So now it's been identified that the entire short block needs to be replaced. Should take another week to repair.
This has been the worst experience I've ever had with a new car. Now I have a relatively new car (10,300 miles) that has had 2 rear main seals repaired, a short block replaced, replaced front parking sensors, and a radio that displays the wrong time when first starting the car.
I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
View 19 RepliesSo i noticed i am leaking oil, not much but enought that i will have to top it up before the next oil change. The drip comes from the drain bolt, and drips off the bottom of the oil pan right under it. I have replaced the bolt and it still continues to leak. What could be the cause of this?
View 1 RepliesIf I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesJust got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
View 8 RepliesI own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
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