I30 - Infiniti :: 1996 - Loose Rattling / Clacking Noise From Front End
Dec 14, 2012
I recently traded in my old '96 Infiniti for this great 2001 PT Cruiser. It drives great ,,mileage is at 76K and in very good condition .. except for this. Whenever I am driving and going over minor or major bumps I get a lot of loose RATTLING, clacking noise from the front end. Obviously from the tires bouncing up and down. Is this typical for this particular PT? I remember having that in an old Jeep of mine too. Very boxy sounding in the front.
My wife and I had traded both of our cars in..2009 Versa for a 2013 Chevy Sonic--1996 infiniti for a 2001 PT Cruiser
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
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A few months ago I noticed there was an odd clicking noise from the front end. At first it was noticeable when reversing the car with a fair amount of lock on. It has become progressively worse now and there is a (single) loud clack that is heard and clearly felt through the driver's foot-well (right hand side here in Oz.) It happens during heavy braking and enthusiastic cornering. The vehicle is 3 years old, out of warranty with a hefty amount of k's on the clock. The car will be going to my dealer (when he recovers from his flood damage. I'm guessing suspension wear and tear.
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The front pads on the R shift from one side of the caliper to the other whenever I move from forward to reverse they make a loud "clack". I thought it might be an O.E. pad issue, but I've changed the pads out to EBC's, but still no bueno. The new pads fit snuggly into the calipers and seemed to have solved the problem at first, but about 5k km's in, they're making the same noise.
I have anti-rattle springs installed, but they're not working. Is there supposed to be a pair of shims between the caliper sliders and the pads grooves that the previous owner removed for some reason? I don't think so, because that car only had 25k km on it when I purchased it; but you never know.
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My '07 I4 has 92K on it, I have only owned it for 450 miles of that. It has a bit of a rough idle sitting at a light, but fine otherwise, it did stall on me once at startup. I put some Seafoam in the fuel tank and ran that entire tank, I now have regular gasoline in it. The rough idle isn't any better but I have another issue.
The day after putting in the Seafoam, on a cold startup (36 degrees), I had a lot of valve/lifter/injector/VVT ticking, not sure which. It was worse that one time and it lasted for the first 4 miles of driving and only ticked when I was under load, not at idle.
As time has progressed I have no serious ticking, but it does make a louder ticking/rattling/clacking, whatever you want to call it, until it warms up, about 4 miles.
I heard reference to VVT issues or VVT gears, I'm used to my '06 Tacoma V6 and I know nothing about this issue.
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I own a 2002 Saab 9-3 with 248,000. When I start the engine there is a rattling sound as if something is loose and quiet down when the engine warms up. Sometime when I stop and accelerate there is rattling and then a lot of smoke from the exhaust. I am looking for a mechanic that specialize in Saab to get a honest assessment. How to keep this vehicle running.
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The belly pan on my AUDI A4 is loose and causing a clattering, rattling noise. I looked under the car and it looks like all of the screws are missing..... Can I fix this myself?
I saw that a lot of places online sell the screws but pricing was a bit confusing and I wanted to make sure it's something I can fix myself.
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My 2012 Plug-in spontaneously started making a metal scraping/rattling noise in the middle of a low-speed drive around the neighborhood yesterday. Seems to be coming from the left front wheel area. I've checked thoroughly under the car and in the front wheel wells for anything that could be dragging/rubbing, and I can't find a culprit there.
It occurs while coasting in EV mode, so not ICE/exhaust related. The car doesn't pull to one side or the other. Only 9K miles, so I wouldn't suspect a hub bearing or any other significant wear to be causing this.
Possible clue or red herring: the dealer replaced the the left front tire and did an alignment two days ago, and the noise occurred within 15 miles of driving after that service.
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One thing that brought me here is the noise of my liftgate when being closed. When the liftgate contacts the latch it makes a rattle-y/loose sound. The trunk is locked and secure however the sound is very off-putting. I bought my 2010 Prius II as a CPO last year and never really thought much about the noise, only that it didn't sound very pretty.
However, I was recently sideswiped and was put in a 2013 Prius II and the liftgate closes with a solid thunk with no loose rattles. What could be causing this squeaky/rattle sound? I thought it could be my license plate frame since rentals typically don't use frames, but it seems really unlikely.
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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This bad squeaking, loose rattling and (sometimes) banging noise from the left rear started happening about a couple weeks ago. I've removed all interior panels, even the exterior bumper thinking there was something loose and nothing. I suspect as a last resort it has to be the suspension despite the car having only 17k km.
What is strange is the rattle increases in sound volume and occurs more often the longer you drive and also if temperatures get colder.
In other words, if I have the car parked in my garage overnight (slightly above 0 C) and immediately drive next morning into sub-freezing temps and on bumpy roads, you don't hear it. But after 5-10 minutes of driving, you start to hear it and gets louder and more frequent.
Searched other threads and some have reported the shock as the problem for 2010/2011 models, but none had any sound or video to compare.
The video shows how bad it is : [URL] ....
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I drive a '96 Infiniti I30, and recently the driver's side front wheel has started making a mysterious noise. It's not a grinding but a clicking/clanking noise. It's only present when I'm turning and accelerating. If I let off the gas it disappears. The other strange thing is that i can feel it in the gas pedal. I looked at some other discussions and the only thing that was similar was a bad CV joint. One last thing, if it is the CV joint how soon should i get it replaced?
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Noise occasionally comes from the driver front wheel on acceleration. Can not be duplicated when a technician looks at it.
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I'm hearing a disconcerting sound coming from my car as of late. It's a rattling sound, almost as if someone were shaking a can of spray paint at the same frequency as the engine. It doesn't strike me as being a heat shield, it's a heavier rattling, not really a buzz.
The sound usually occurs when I am above 2000 RPM, however, it does not match an RPM range or the car's speed—it seems more closely associated with the position of the gas pedal—about halfway to 3/4. It does not make the sound unless the car is in gear and moving.
On cold starts, the engine fires and runs, but then takes up to 30-40 seconds to really get going at a normal RPM. Efforts to coax it with the gas pedal are delayed by a second or two before they kick in...
The car is a 2001 model, and has 44,000 miles.
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I have a 1996 infiniti we bought in 2006 has ran good until the last 2 years. when you slow down at a red light or stop sign it will die on you. We have had the fuel pump, Mass flow sensor,starter, spark plugs,rewire harness for MAF and I think not to long ago the alternator was replaced also. But when you are driving the radio will turn off then the car will die the air also stops working. It does this when the weather is getting hot only does not seem to do it in the winter maybe a few times but the summer it is almost every time you drive it.
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My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
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2 days ago, our 1996 G20'S sun roof slid open as normal. Unfortunately It would not slide back to a closed position. The roof's motor can be heard running when both switches are depressed (for either function) ; sliding and tilting. The roof will no longer do either function. I was able to pull the sun roof closed by hand but could not make the back edge of the glass rise up to be sealed closed completely. Obviously it became disengaged from the motor somehow. Would it be somewhat possible for me to get inside of the roof to hook it all back together/replace parts ? Is the location of the motor behind the sunroof control panel?
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i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I have 1996 Infiniti I30. I have had to replace the brake light switch on multiple occasions. And even now it appears that I may have to again after replacing it about a two months ago. What would cause this, faulty switches or internal electrical problem?
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So this clacking and thunking from the front suspension is something we all have to live with? Second. Dealer says everything tight. I think its the strut mounts because the noise seems to at top of dash behind the fire wall. It sounds like two metal balls knocking together clack clack.: Seems to getting worse as the kms rack up.
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