Ignition - Batteries :: RPM Dial Not Working / Hyundai Accent Stalling
Aug 29, 2014
Over the last several weeks my car (2010 Hyundai Accent, 60k miles) started randomly stalling on me. I took it to my mechanic earlier this week and all 4 ignition coils were replaced. Yesterday I accidentally left my headlights on for about 2.5 hours and the car was completely dead. I got it jumped and drove it around for about 35 minutes. I had the battery tested at Autozone and they said it is good. Then last night it stalled in the McDonald's line - I was able to restart it and get home but this morning it is completely dead again. Also twice yesterday after starting up the car the rpm dial wasn't moving at all. The car was accelerating just fine but the rpm dial did not reflect this. Of the several times I drove it yesterday it only did this twice. Someone told me to bring the battery to Autozone to get it fully charged, but does that explain the rpm dial not moving?
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About 5 weeks ago my 2008 Hyundai accent's check engine light came on. It came on right after I filled up a tank of gas and started running a bit rough. About a year ago the same thing happened, and it turned out to have been because of some bad gas (I ran the tank down, refilled and everything went back to normal). I assumed that was the same thing this time because the gas was from the same location and the problems started right after the fill-up.
I drove it for about a week and then it stalled out completely. Rpm wouldn't go over about 2,000 and if I tried to drive I wouldn't go over about 10mph. I took it into the local shop. Replaced all kinds of fuel sensors, spark plug coils, and the main computer, and I think the fuel pump (all of which got fried). The error codes are all fixed and the car idles just fine. Only problem, when you put it in gear to drive it almost immediately bogs down, rpm stays below 2k (still) and eventually it will totally stall out.
The shop is now saying they think it's the catalytic converter - but they aren't sure. The car idles smoothly now, no error codes. But as soon as you try to drive it barely moves. It feels like there's a governor on the engine or like there's not enough fuel getting through. What to try next.
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2008 Hyundai Account 4door78,721 Miles. I've only had it for a year. Taken it to dealership they performed diagnostic test, no codes. When its cold my car shuts off while driving and is difficult to remain on after starting it. When temperature is about 70 degrees car runs fine. I have tried new battery...didn't work. I have replaced spark plugs.....didn't work.
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one morning my car was spitting and sputtering then ran fine once the engine light went off. So I took it to auto zone to check the battery and they said it was the dead and fusible link, even though no battery light was on. Afterward, i realized the fusible link was turnings because the battery light was never on and positive terminal was the issue. Ever since they put in the new battery and fusible link now the fusible link keeps blowing. the one thy put in lasted 1 day, then I had the positive terminal and fusible link replaced at Hyundai dealer which last 6 days then link broke again. I replace the link, start the car no battery light, I shut the car off and turn it back on, and link breaks again. I have tried this 3 times. I did make sure no wires were under the battery and all bolts were tight. I know some ppl say alternator but that is on opposite side of the car and fusible link is on top of the battery. there was no issue with the fusible link before replacing, which is why I can't see it being the alternator.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. If we go out of town, or any time we don't drive the Tuscan for three days or more we always come back to a dead battery. I mean really dead. I mean, get a new battery dead. Since 2005 when we bought the vehicle new, we've had nine—9—new batteries put in. The last one was a heavy duty battery recommended by the dealer.
This problem started after the dealer replaced the OEM radio. We've had multiple checks done on the engine to find out where the (battery) draw is coming from. I researched and found a Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin saying that the problem is from a defective stereo. But my dealer says they can't locate the problem.
We've also had the battery posts cleaned and other things done. The vehicle runs fine and has had few problems except for this nagging battery problem.
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My daughter left the ingnition on after rolling up my windows last night and killed my battery. My charger is saying that it's charging not failed. Is there anything else that could of got messed up?
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I replaced hv battery and starter tried one time to engage and then nothing. i replaced 12v and still nothing. switch powers on and when pushed again simply powers down.
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
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My climate control dial lights have stopped working for some odd reason.. They dont light up anymore.
I checked the fuses, they all seem to be ok (is there even a fuse for these lights?) How do i go about fixing this problem?
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I have a '96 Honda Civic DX model, manual transmission. I replaced the battery, sparkplugs, distributor last summer. Yesterday, hottest day yet this spring, my car wouldn't start. When cranked, the lights came on the dash, the fuel line was running, the check engine light blinked, but then no ignition. Left it overnight, started up fine this morning. Took it to a shop,Mechanic said battery and alternator were good and a replaced starter later, I took it home. Driving home, the idle dropped way too low (no tach) and almost stalled the car (battery light came on) when I pushed in the clutch. Now when I turn it on, it starts, idles regular, then the idle drops again.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with about 83,000 miles. Lately it has been having issue with the rpm's going low and stalling out while I'm driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and it has not been resolved. He said it does not need a tune up and it's nothing with my fuel. I've also heard it could be a crank shaft censor but he says no. The check engine light has come on sometimes, very quickly but then goes off.. He ran the code but nothing came up. So then what's causing my car to do this?? While the car is running and I'm in park, the rpm's will go from 2 to almost 0 then back up again. While I'm driving down the road it does the same thing and sometimes it completely stalls out while I'm going about 40mph. So incredibly scary. What this could be so I can take it back and get it fixed!!!! I'm so scared to drive it but I have to get to work.
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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On sporadic occasions when I turn the key to start the car, I get nothing. No buzzers, bells, lights or ignition. If I open and close the door, all is well.
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I am driving a 4 cylinder 2003 Hyundai Sonata just at 130000 miles. The other day on the trip back home the car started shaking violently and the check engine light came on. I ran the code and it led me to a cylinder 1 misfire. Today I replaced my spark plugs, and wires. The number 1 plug had some deposits on it, but nothing that should cause a misfire.
Now when the car is in idle there is a spark that jumps from the boot of one of the new wires to the grounding on the corresponding coil. I have never noticed this spark before changing the plugs and wires. It does this with either set of wires. I have a picture below where the spark is jumping from. The car has a noticeable drop in idle when it sparks. Do I need to look into getting some new coils?
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I have a 1961 International Scout 80. I picked it up about a month ago and have been working on it ever since. It has been running a little rough but ok. Carb definitely could use at least a cleaning. Recent history is as follows...Brought home a month ago. replaced clutch hydraulics and rebuilt rear brakes 3 weeks ago. Began rewiring 2 weeks ago including removing dash, choke and throttle cables.
Completed rewiring of engine and lights and most of dash. Some wires are still left open. Since replacing the clutch hydraulics I have been starting it up every few days to drive from a parking space, about 100 ft, to the garage. 2 days ago after finishing working for the night I drove and parked it. The next morning it will not run. It starts and then immediately dies. I know there is a number of things it could be I just don't know the best way to go about diagnosing the issue.
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
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After a long drive in Arizona heat, my Hyundai Accent won't restart after refueling! Never happened until last Sat., then Fri., then Sunday. Ck eng light, so Mechanic ck'd it, but no codes...Car is '07 with 125K
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I own a Hyundai Accent 2013, and need to turn off eco mode . It's a beep noise which occurs when my car raises 40 km/h, 60 km/h , 80 km/h and so on.
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Alright, well I have recently purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5l SOHC, automatic. 117k miles. The problem is, it won't shift into overdrive. It appears that the overdrive button works, as the dashboard light turns on and off, but pressing the button has no effect on the transmission, as it still doesn't go into 4th gear. It's 3rd gear all the way down the freeway, which really limits me to cruising at like 60 mph. What this could be? The fluid seems alright, and there's enough I believe.
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