Hyundai - Sonata :: 2003 - Ignition Woes - Cylinder 1 Misfiring
Jan 21, 2014
I am driving a 4 cylinder 2003 Hyundai Sonata just at 130000 miles. The other day on the trip back home the car started shaking violently and the check engine light came on. I ran the code and it led me to a cylinder 1 misfire. Today I replaced my spark plugs, and wires. The number 1 plug had some deposits on it, but nothing that should cause a misfire.
Now when the car is in idle there is a spark that jumps from the boot of one of the new wires to the grounding on the corresponding coil. I have never noticed this spark before changing the plugs and wires. It does this with either set of wires. I have a picture below where the spark is jumping from. The car has a noticeable drop in idle when it sparks. Do I need to look into getting some new coils?
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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On sporadic occasions when I turn the key to start the car, I get nothing. No buzzers, bells, lights or ignition. If I open and close the door, all is well.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl. and have a misfire problem with the 1st cylinder. I've had it pressure checked and there isn't a problem with the cylinder, such as a ring or warping problem. I've replaced the wires, both boots, both ignition coils and the plugs twice. I was told I need to replace the ignition coil again but I wonder if there is something that is making the coil go bad. I've also replace the throttle position sensor and both O2 sensors. I had the front catalytic converter replaced because it was bogging down and very slow. It still runs rough and the check engine light is on. I was told also that I need to replace the engine speed sensor. I bought the car in Oct. of 2004 and only has 68000 miles on it.
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I am not a mechanic by any means, but have picked up a lot of stuff over the years. I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata with a 4 cylinder engine. Several days ago while going up a steep hill I lost power and my check engine light came on. This has happened before when my coil went bad so I figured it would be a breeze fixing it. I limped it home and ran the code. Sure enough it came back as cylinder 1 misfire. This vehicle uses 2 coils so I swapped them to try and get the problem to follow, but it did not. I have tried a new spark plug, new wires, and swapped injectors without success. There is still no activity on cylinder 1.
I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.
Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?
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Trucks throwing codes for cylinder 3 and 8 misfire. I pulled the plugs and both were covered in oil and cylinder 8s electrode was literally gone. so I replaced the plugs and within 5 miles it was missing again. so I replaced all plugs, all wires and coil packs. cylinder 8 plug had fouled out. Its a 4.6l 99. I have a mild exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. but not bad enough I feel it should matter. it runs rough until about 3k rpm and then it kinda straightens out.
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I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
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I am having issues with my everyday driver as of late. I developed a misfire and replaced, plugs, coils, plug wires. Misfire persisted so we replaced, injectors, fuel rail. The misfire still was there and getting worse so we checked the engine mechanically for any burnt or bent valves and it checked out fine. We completed a compression test and all cylinders tested within 5 psi of each other. We finally replaced the ECU and Cam Sensor and the problem still is here. We do not know what else to do. I have narrowed down the misfire to cylinder one. The injector is not firing on this cylinder. I know this because when you unplug it there is no change in the engines behavior. As stated earlier, injectors are new, but i switched them out just to make sure it was a bad injector. I tested the lead and the voltage was appriopiate.
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I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
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Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
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Ok I got this truck from my mother-in-law for free with a blown head gasket cylinder 6 driver side. I did the replacement had the heads machined put it all back together by the book. Now I can't get it to fire on all 6 cylinders only 5 I think. Thought maybe bad gas (it sat since late November) put 5 gallons (over double the gas) fresh gas and half a bottle of b-12 chem tool. Dubble checked all plugs wires connections (coils plugs wires all new). I drove for about 10 miles oil pressure and temperature stayed perfect but no change in running truck shakes a lot and no real power. Don't sputter or backfire no engine codes other than imcr bank 2 open. Engine is 4.2l v-6 170k miles.
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A few days ago my ignition key would not budge when I tried to start my 2003 Santa Fe. I tried all the tricks like turning the wheel. dry lube, etc but no luck. All indications are that I need a new ignition lock cylinder but I can't figure out how to remove it. I removed all of the plastic and metal shrouding below the dash but can't seem to find a hole to release the cylinder. I have also tried to remove the whole cylinder body assembly by disconnecting the wires and loosening the bolt that secures the "arm" from the ignition cylinder body to the steering column but that also seems to be secured in a way I can't figure out.
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2000 F150 5.4 engine. The truck was running great, but it's time to sale it. The ignition cylinder periodically will stick. So, my son the genius , took a pair of pliers to force it to turn. I get home from work to move it the front yard and the PATS theft is blinking fast as I try to start it. It cranks just not start. I hear the fuel pump come on. I removed the cover on the steering column and there is no damage to the ring around the key cylinder or anything I can see, just the cylinder itself . I tried disconnecting the battery, switching relays,etc.
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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4 cylinder Sonata with 177k miles on it. When I first get in the car and drive away the transmission doesn't want to shift up. I have a manu matic type shifter so I usually just shift up as the RPMS reach the normal shift point. Eventually the transmission starts working but sometimes it acts up and I'm back to shifting myself. Sometimes it shifts hard or double shifts. I'm getting conflicting info from different mechanics. Some say change the transmission fluid and that should fix it. Others say don't because it could open up a bigger can of worms and I will be buying a new transmission shortly after. What should I do?? I can't afford a new car nor can I afford to buy a new transmission.
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2003 Hyundai Sonata, 70K.....engine makes a continuous pop...pop...pop noise during acceleration. So far have installed new crankshaft sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires.
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I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata. I currently have a slight grinding noise (or maybe more of a low growling) when I make left turns. This happened in the not-so-distant past and it was an issue with the power steering hoses (one had rusted through), so we (and by "we," I mean my fantastic father) changed it out. I thought this time it may just be low power steering fluid, but after checking it, I can say it's not low. I'd think if a hose was the culprit again, the fluid would be low. What we should look into?
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On two occasions, about 18 months apart, my Hyundai Sonata started lurching down the freeway, losing power at approx. 3000rpm and regaining it at about 2500rpm. (I was traveling about 70mph.) The first time I was hauled home and the second time i tried to maintain speed and limped home 40 miles on Hwy 80W outside of Sacramento, CA. AAA mechanics reset computer both times and the first time replaced gasket on accelerator. The second time they reset computer but could not find what caused computer to malfunction.
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So my 2008 accent is my daily driver. I'm nearing the 300,000 mile mark but the last 100,000 miles have been plagued with random multiple misfires. I have changed the cables, crankshaft sensor, plugs, and I've been through numerous costly coils (I keep 4 with me). All listed parts were most recently changed at the same time. Why do I misfire on nearly every commute and get stuck operating on 3 cylinders?
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