Ignition - Jetta - Volkswagen - Misfire - Sparkplugs :: 2002 - Misfiring At All Speeds
Mar 18, 2011
My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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My wife's 2011 Volkswagen Jetta (2.0 I believe) is misfiring again. We took it to the dealership about 6 months ago and they said that the ignition coil had gone bad. They replace the ignition coil and said that the plugs needed changing as well. I went to Auto Zone and got some decent plugs and changed them myself at home without much problem. It seemed to work with the problem (although it didn't seem to completely fix it) for a while, but it just recently went back to misfiring. The current symptom is that it seems to misfire when the car is warming up, but misfires less when the car is warm.
The dealership says that the plugs that we got were not recommended by the dealer (they recommended Bosch) and that they need to be replaced. I think this is BS and it is not going to fix the problem.
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2 002 Jetta Bad misfire P0301 a bit long. 02 jetta gls with 2.0 AVH engine auto trans. over summer my brother overheated it & blew head gasket & valves. All parts listed are new between aug and now. I repaired engine as follows new head & bolts head gasket timing belt water pump coolant flange on drivers side new fuel rail and injectors car also has new coil pack, new VW plug wires and 1 week ago new iridium plugs my brother didn?t want car, so i bought it from him. Ran great after I rebuilt top end.
Car did 140 on the turnpike & ran great. once or twice while giving moderate to high throttle CEL would flash and I pulled P0300 as a pending code. Problem stopped after 2 days. last week after 4 hrs of idling(don't ask) started misfiring and CEL flashes constantly P0301 The misfire seems worse at idle and low speed. Car will get to highway speed but has bad pickup. This is what I?ve done/checked New iridium plugs Plug wires 4.5 ohms Coil pack is good and producing enough spark at each wire MAF sensor cleaned Cyl 1 compression good all injectors are clicking and when disconnected cause appropriate CEL error code Brought car to VW dealer for diagnosis VAG COM shows multiple misfire on cyl 1 Mechanic confirmed all the steps I took and components tested ok. He tried new coil pack, new plug and wire for cyl 1 and no change.
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5S with 50k miles. The user manual says to change spark plugs at 40k miles. Since the dealer quoted 350$, i haven't changed yet. The car is running fine. Should i be changing the spark plugs ? If not will it led to other problems?
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I get some bucking under load between 1500 and 3000 rpm. This issue is more noticeable when the engine is warm. When it does this it makes a sound that to me sounds like a misfire from the exhaust, but I've never gotten a misfire code.
Sometimes i get codes p0411 and p0420 (secondary air injection and cat efficiency) but VCDS tests say my cat and o2 sensors are all good.
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
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Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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So I haven't driven my 2003 Jetta in about a week and a half. Today when I started it it struggled to start, and then at a stop light while my foot was on the brake it was jumping/stuttering. it continued when I moved at 5 mph, but did not happen while driving at higher speeds (15 mph) and went away when j shifted from drive to park. I got on the highway and drove for 15 minutes with no issues, and now the problem is gone. Is this a sign of a failing part?
The spark plugs and wires were replaced 6 months ago. I had them changed because the car has always had a small intermittent rough idle that would sometimes happen when stopped and at low parking lot speeds, but it's never been so noticeable. it was really lunging this time
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Recently (5 weeks ago), my 2004 Jetta misfired, which caused the car to shake very noticeably, especially at lower speeds or while idling. The misfire was accompanied by the smell of fuel on the driver side and triggered the check engine light to flash. I took it to the shop (a VW dealer). They ran diagnostics, found it signaled a misfire (but no other major issues/sensors) and told me it was due to the spark plugs/wires. I was dubious, as they were not too old, but I allowed them to replace them anyway, as they assured me this would fix the problem.
Just this week, however, another misfire occurred, also accompanied by the smell of fuel and shaking. This time, the check engine light remained on (constant) for 2 days, and on the third day, it was off. I brought it back to the same shop to try to figure out the real cause of the misfire, which obviously was not the previous spark plugs. My city gas mileage has also decreased over the past month - down to about 20-21 mpg from 23-24. What could be causing such a reoccurring misfire without signaling an issue with a sensor or other part?
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I started this string over a year ago (see below). My car continues to suffer the same problem. It now has 62,000 miles on it. I finally decided to take it to the dealership seeing as my local mechanic and 2 VW specialists could not figure out what is wrong - 2 new sets of coils, 2 news sets of spark plugs, and several expensive diagnostic tests that reveal nothing later. The dealership also has no clear idea what is wrong with the car and VW itself has not been useful either (rather useless really). No service bulletins have been posted for my car. I have tried several additives (Techron, Sea Foam) but that did not yield any results. The one thing I have noticed is that the misfiring ceases to occur when the gas tank is a little less than half full but begins to occur again as the gas gauge reaches the refill zone. It misfires like crazy when the tank is full. I am thinking of replacing the wiring harness for the fuel injectors but this is yet another best guess as to what might be wrong with the car.
I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer. I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean.
Codes listed:
P0202 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 2
P0300 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Random
P0302 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 2
P0304 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 4
P0301 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 1
P0201 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 1
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I'm driving my wife's 2002 VW Golf on the highway to build miles (it's at 84k). It's a manual with gearing that's at 3500 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear, which seems pretty high. It had been doing fine on the highway, even though the RPM seems a bit high due to gearing, but it keeps me under 80 mph (highway is largely 70 mph). It burns oil, but not too bad, like a quart every 500 miles or so.
Recently, when driving at "high" speed (slightly over or near 70 mph), I get a plume of intense white smoke. After slowing down, the plume goes away, and I can continue near 65 mph.
After this happened today, I put on a code reader, and saw of P0159, air fuel ratio oxygen sensor issue. What causes the white plume of smoke, and what to do about it? Seems like the car should have more miles on it.
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A couple weeks ago I bought a 2001 VW Jetta with 176,000 miles on it. The car runs well, but for the past four days this has been happening:
Every time I start the car, after it's been off for a couple hours, neither the gas nor the brake pedal work. I can push them down, and I hear the car trying to respond but it doesn't do anything (well, it does move a little, as though it's in neutral). Then, when I turn the car off and then turn it immediately back on, both pedals are back to normal and work perfectly fine again. It's happened every time I start the car for the past few days.
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I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
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I just got this car it a 2002 jetta glx vr6 12v 5 spleed. It has a miss new plugs wires gas and used coil pack. It misses especially when cold check engine light on says cam sensor changed it and still same thing if I clear the code it comes right back.
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I've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
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What the problem is, what to do about it, if VW is doing anything if you complain enough.
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
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So here's a stinker that apparently has my mechanic puzzled. A few days ago I brought in my 2002 Jetta wagon in for a headlamp bulb change and a oil change. I pull out, but by the time I get home the check engine light is on. The manual says it's an emissions issue. I plan to make a garage visit on Thursday. they call me and say that they have my hubcaps...for some reason. OK, well, the next day, I am accelerating to get onto the highway, and suddenly, there is a big power drop and shudder. I pull over, call AAA and they take me into the garage where I got the oil change. Today, they say that a number of the spark plugs were out, but that it was strange because the corrosion made it clear that they had not been disturbed or pulled off in any way. They said that the spark plugs accounted for all of the car's symptoms. But we could not figure out how multiple spark plugs came out.
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My mechanic says I need to replace both front sway bar links on my 2002 Jetta....I am, of course, hesitant to do it at this price. How critical is it to replace? Can I get junk yard sway bars to make it cheaper? And can I do it myself (have no experience fixing anything....
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