I have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
View 11 RepliesI have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
View 7 RepliesSo for a couple weeks my car has been having issues starting. When I turn the key initially it will do nothing sometimes, take a second to start sometimes, and start almost normally sometimes. It seems to be at it's worse when I leave it for longer periods, such as after work or overnight. What happens most is that I turn the key and nothing happens for a moment, then it starts to turn over, and after a few seconds of struggling to start it turns over. It hasn't gotten worse yet, but i'd like to hear from the more knowledgeable before I go to a mechanic.
View 8 RepliesSo the car was unused and sitting in snow for about 2 months. Now the car will not start, and actually does not make any noise when key is turned. No lights inside the car turn on. No automatic or electronic buttons work at all. Is this a totally dead battery or starter (since it makes no noise with key in ignition) or something else (e.g. electrical)? I tried to jump start the car which did nothing (but honestly not sure if it was done for a good enough amount of time... about 5 minutes).
View 12 Replies2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
View 5 RepliesI have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
View 8 RepliesAlmost every time I start my 2001 Ford Focus, it won't start. The starter functions but the engine won't start. I have to pump it, give it gas, and once it starts, it's perfectly fine, no stalling, no problems after that. That is until I turn the engine off. When I go to start it again, say after doing an errand or two, it may or may not happen again throughout the day, the problem only occurring when I attempt to start it.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
I have a 2003 Taurus wagon (a real babe magnet) that has 63K on it. On random occasions recently, I turn the key to start it and there is dead silence--no groans, no clicks, nada. This happened for the second time last week at a tire shop, and the technician had me hold the key in the start position while he tapped the starter with a metal rod, which worked miraculously. He showed me where the starter was and how to perform this miracle. Unfortunately it is a two-person job, and I was stranded the next evening alone at my house, and missed work the next day. Later that day it started right up like nothing had happened.
It stranded me again two days later, and nice lady in the parking lot held the key in start position while I used my cane to tap the starter as I had been shown. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem and my temporary solution, hoping they would know from this exactly how to fix it. After four days, they said they could not duplicate the problem, that the car started right up every time they tried it. Meanwhile the car I had borrowed from a friend broke down in a busy intersection, stranding me again for a short while. I went back to the dealer and brought the Ford home, figuring there isn't much to do but play the odds....Logic suggests that because tapping the starter seems to get it to go, that the problem must be in the starter. Yet the guys at the dealership wouldn't touch anything until the car refused to start for them. Where does one go (or in this case, possibly not go) from here?
We just bought a 2013 ford escape and every morning when we turn on the ignition we hear a quick pop noise under the drivers side near the back (I think). Sometimes it happens if the car is sitting in a parking lot for a long time and then you start it. The same quick brief pop noise. Sounds like a popcorn pop. It happens when the car is cold. I cannot figure out if its something because the vehicle is running fine and its hard to prove to dealership. They said nothing to worry about because they could not hear it.
View 3 RepliesI just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
View 14 RepliesOur Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
View 2 Replies2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
I have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
On my class C motor home, 1999 with V10 engine when I turn the ignition key to the start position I get absolute silence, when I release the key and turn it to the start position again it always starts. I have fitted a new starter motor, new solenoid and new battery but still the problem persists. I'm scared that one time it will not crank over on the second attempt.
View 10 RepliesI drive a 1997 well-maintained Toyota. This is the 1st time I've had this problem. It started yesterday. I started my car, as usual to stop somewhere for 5 minutes. When I returned I tried to start the car and got "nothing". No sounds, but the lights/radio/dashlight worked. I tried several times, gave up and called AAA.
I took a walk around the block to see if my mechanic was open on Saturday in case I had to tow my car there. It wasn't. I went back to my car to wait for AAA. However, this time the car started immediately, and I drove home after cancelling AAA. I drove the car the rest of the day/evening on & off with no problems.
Today, I tried to start it in the AM and once again it did not start (like the previous day). My neighbor suggested that the ignition & steering wheel are related and could be something to do with that. Anyway, I tried turning the wheel to the right/left, etc. but could not get it started today as I did the day before,
Tomorrow I plan to have it towed (or maybe it will start again) to my mechanic. What could be wrong? Never had this type of thing happen before. The battery is good.
I put the key in and maybe 1 out of 10 times it wont turn to start the engine. When I pull it out and put it back in 2-3 times it will turn. I tried my spare key and it still happens. I have W2-40'd it with no luck. I am out in the wilderness a lot and don't want to get stranded. is it the switch or has the interlock cable shown this as a problem? What are the steps to replace the switch?
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