My 2002 Impala runs hot when pulling a long grade and I have to turn off the a/c. It runs fine every other time. New belts, hoses, thermostat and flushed completely with new coolant. The radiator is fine and a/c coils are clean also
View 2 RepliesSo this car has been having overheating problems since I first purchased it. I've operated it, but I've had to keep the heat going full blast to keep the coolant tank from overheating.
Last night I was driving on the interstate, and it began to overheat. It was running hot for maybe 3 minutes before I was able to pull over. I let it sit and cool for probably about 20-25 minutes, pulling over on a dark portion of the interstate, before I started it with no problem and moved it to a safer location (it ran hot again, but this was maybe for 30 seconds before I pulled over and shut it off.)
I let it sit for a good hour so that it could cool all the way down from 260 to 140. I then attempt to start it. It turns, but does not start. At this point, I call a tow truck to come for it. About 30 to 40 minutes after this, I start the car again. It starts with no problem. I put it in reverse, and roll it back to see if there are any leaks. There's leaking from the coolant tank...quite a large puddle. I refill it with distilled water and it leaks some more but sits mostly. I then start it again, and roll it forward. The tow truck arrives maybe 30 minutes later, and I attempt to start it to line it up behind, but it turns and does not start. We have to put it in Neutral and turn it to get it in line for the tow truck.
We get to my destination, probably about a 40 minute drive, and he unloads it. I attempt to start it...again, it turns but does not start. This morning, about 8 hours after that, I try to start it...it does not even turn.
The oil is just fine, the battery is not dead (lights/radio/horn/etc. works), but the battery does seem weak since the dashboard lights are dimmed no matter how much I turn them up. Even though the coolant tank has been somewhat depleted, it was never close to being empty or bone dry. There weren't any "knocking" noises, there was no smoking or anything from either the hood or the exhaust.
My 2005 Impala is overheating , sometimes, and only for a minute. (When it goes into the red, I pull over and turn car off for a few minutes.) The needle fluctuates, though. I read old posts, but my mechanic tried them. Here's what's gone on so far:
Replaced thermostat, flushed / refilled antifreeze , car worked fine for a day, then it started again.
He then took an air pocket out. He took it for a drive, it was fine. I drove it for a day, it was fine. The next day it started up again (needle quickly fluctuating, sometimes needle slowly fluctuating).
He replaced the upper radiator hose. He then drove the car (local and on highway) for 2 1/2 hours, it was fine. I picked it up and it was perfect for the rest of the day/evening. This morning, after driving about 8 miles, it started again. I'm dropping it off tonight. He said it is hard to know exactly what it is without trying things. He said next he would try water pump or radiator.
My pickup runs smooth 95% of the time. It runs rough at red lights and when pulling away from stops. It seems to happen more when the A/C is on.
View 3 RepliesI recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
View 5 RepliesOk so my car kept overheating and I saw I had a small leak from the gasket on the water pump. I replaced the water pump and gasket but then it would zoom straight to overheating. I then assumed it was a stuck thermostat and replaced the OEM with a fail-safe thermostat. After topping off fluid and leaving the radiator cap off until I saw fluid running through it took it for a drive. The temp began to climb to overheating but dropped just as it was getting to the red and then began to fluctuate. Finally heat came through the car climate system and all was good until I had to come to a stop. It seems that whenever I have to stop at a light the temperature rises to overheating.
View 9 Replies2002 cheverlot impala . the oil pressure switch keeps going bad and the diaphragm bust and oil comes out where the plug is. had to replace four in over a year . why and what make them go bad ?
View 12 RepliesMy impala over heated on me and it doesn't turn on..... What is wrong with it?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
my 2002 chevy impala has had the check engine light on for a while now i took it to a shop and he said my engine was bad. I asked for the codes he got he said he just told me my engine was bad why do I need codes. I talked to another mechanic this week and he said he'd look at it, that it might not be that because I should of got a print out for what I paid for. SO I got a oil change today and when i left I saw in the comments that they put class 2 oil pan leak and a class 2 transmission leak. Could that be why my check engine light is on? How bad is a class 2 transmission leak?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Impalah 100k miles that frequently won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, I get lights, radio, and all electrical signs. But no sound from the engine. No matter how many times I try to turn the ignition, I get nothing.
But then when I stop trying and then come back to the car 5 to 10 minutes later, the car will start with no problem. This seems to happen randomly--sometimes first thing in the morning, sometimes after being parked for an hour. I can go for days with no problems and then it will start happening (randomly) again.
I just brought the car back from a dealership--they couldn't reproduce the problem and can't find anything wrong with the car. What systems or parts might be malfunctioning?
I have a 2002 chevrolet impala. The traction active light and abs light and traction off light comes on and the car makes a scrubbing sound.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Impala 3.4l sometimes starts shifting hard through all gears. It's not all the time. I have heard of others with this same problem and a transaxle service is apparently not the fix.
View 3 RepliesI've been getting the gas cap code off and on for years now. I can wash the gasket off and it goes away for a few months, but then it returns. The cap itself is in showroom condition. It's just the rubber gasket/ring that appears to be "segmented" all the way around.
Replace just the gasket on the gas cap for this vehicle? I know I can buy a whole new AC Delco gas cap from Rock Auto for $20, but to me that's wasteful. Looking at the cap, I really can't see how it comes apart, though. No visible screws, but it must separate somehow ... or would you just use a pick and pull the gasket up and off that way?
I just installed a replacement Hazard Switch because the directional "blinker" light stopped working (after only working sporadically for a while). This particular switch is probably made in China. Hazards now working normally (with a blink rate of a little better than 1 Hz .. just like it used to work). Directional "blinker" lights - however - are also working, but at a very fast rate: probably 3+Hz. Why this might be? I'm pretty sure the directionals and the Hazards blinked at the same rate with the original switch. Maybe a side-effect of a cheap Chinese switch? I did check both tail lights and they're working for both Directionals and Hazards, but can't get over the difference in flash rate between the two. Doesn't give me a good feeling that this switch will last.
View 6 RepliesThe thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesShop Manual says you need to remove the oil pan as part of the front cover gasket repair. Is that really true? Removing the oil pan on this car is a very complicated procedure. Want to make sure it's abosolutely necessary before continuing.
View 19 RepliesOk so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
View 1 RepliesMy pickup always bogs down going up a grade, seems like its flooding out and it starts running real rough and vibrating bad, I have to let off gas and pull over .
Been to shop several times, no one seems to know what's causing it.
I have been having problems for about 1 1/2 months. My dash gauge never indicates it is overheating. Within this time both heater hose tee's have broken. One of the new ones only lasted about 2 weeks before it broke on all 3 connections. Now the heater hose connector broke. What could be causing this?
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