I wanted to get some input about lowering my 2010 Corolla LE. I wanted to go about 3 inches, but have been told i will need to replace some extra parts. Not sure where to begin, but i'm not afraid to ask questions or get dirty. I hear a lot of different things and i'm on over load with info.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 135,000 miles. My check engine light is mostly on. Sometimes it is off. One mechanic tested the car and said the catalytic converter is bad. Another mechanic said that test can often be false positive and it might only be the O2 sensor. The difference between the two is about $1,000. Which mechanic is correct? My car is registered in a state that doesn't do car inspections.
View 19 Replies2001 sub forrester. In 2009 it was intermittently stuttering: tuneup, new coil, finally O2 sensor (both) replaced which fixed it. In Oct started to do the same thing. First the back then the front sensor replaced but they commented the flow was low on the catalytic converter but wouldn't say it could be the cause of the sensor issue. Now the O2 sensors are on either end of the converter and the car is starting with early signs already. Is is reasonable that it is the catalytic converter? I am wrestling with just having them do the full tuneup and replace the converter or am I crazy?
View 7 RepliesI've been having issues with my car, i took it to Orielly's & they ran diagnostics, one of the codes said a recommended fix was replace the MAF sensor. Today I took it by an auto shop for them to look at, and the guy said it was my catalytic converter, and I mentioned the MAF sensor, he said fixing the CC would take care of the MAF sensor malfunction. So I have a couple questions...
1. Is what he said correct?
2. If you have a bad CC, does it ever NOT smell bad?
Bc I've never smelled anything other than stinky exhaust, never any rotten egg smell.
It's a 98 Nissan Maxima, 6 cyl. it has 265K miles.
My wife's car has the check engine light on and she was told by her mechanic that it was the catalytic converter going out, to ignore it. I am thinking that I ought to be able to build a jumper for the sensor and fool it into thinking that it is working, reset the check engine light and wait till it starts to fall apart before replacing it. I'm tired of driving with the check engine light on, maybe missing something else that needs attention rather than the cat. it has 140k on this car but is in great condition. I am a diesel mechanic, no real experience with gas vehicles in a long time. oh, and we just got married. Or maybe I just ought to stay late at work and get this thing up on the rack and look into it. Put the scope on it myself??
View 19 RepliesOur Jeep has 120k miles and it has the towing package with heavy duty cooling system. In Sept we were returning from a very mild summer in WA when we hit hot weather and mountains in south OR the jeep overheated and we had it towed to a gas station. They replaced the thermostat and checked the fan relay and topped off the coolant (with the wrong type). The Jeep continued overheating when stressed the rest of the way home, another 600 mi. We took it to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer and they flushed the system of the coolant mixture, replaced hoses, fan clutch and the thermostat ($900). The Jeep ran ok a short while before overheating again.
Returned to the dealer and they did all their tests and everything OK. A while later again overheating and returned to the dealer. Their tests again showed no problem, but the mechanic noticed the aux. the fan did not come on when AC turned on. He ran his own tests and decided either the switch or the relay for the fan was faulty, with the switch more likely. They ordered a new switch; the switch didn't?t fit. Called the supplier and requested the correct switch and again the switch didn't?t fit. The mechanic said he could file the prongs to make it fit and did so.
The jeep ran excellent for a few months. In Feb. had to overheat again, this time the dealer found sludge from the old mix of correct/incorrect coolant and flushed system twice. Jeep ran OK for a couple months then again overheating. This time it made it over the mountains fine but driving along flat I-5 south of Redding it overheated. We stopped and after the reservoir stopped boiling (10 min) the temp gauge was fine. We drove for 1-2 hrs. and heats up again. This keeps up till we get home, 400 mi. later. The dealer does his tests and everything fine. I tell them the aux. the fan seems to be randomly shutting off on its own but it does not act up for them so there is no problem. Could the replacement coolant temperature switch for the aux fan not be compatible with the 2002 Jeep?
I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2006 impreza, that we've been told the Catalytic converter is going out. We cannot seem to determine if there are one or two converters on this car, and want to know if this is something that we could do ourselves once we find out where everything is at?
View 18 RepliesI needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
I have noticed lately, when the car is hot, while pulling into my quiet garage, and even when the car is in park, engine running --- hearing some clicking / ticking coming from, or near the Catalytic Converter.... It sounds as if a small piece of metal is rattling inside with the flow of air... It stops clicking once the engine is turned off.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. The key is stuck in the ignition. It will still start, but when I go to turn, it's like the key doesn't want to release those last few steps. Which is as safety issue because my car is sitting ready to be stolen. When I called the dealer they wanted to charge me, just to figure out what is going on with it plus labor and parts to fix it.
This is a known issue with the '06 Jeeps and Chrysler is not wanting to do anything about it. At this point, I just need the key out of the ignition. The dealer said they would have to pull the ignition system apart to get the key out which would cause the car not run at all. We tried tapping the key to get it to release and it hasn't done it yet. It did this once before and we where able to jiggle the key and it released but it is not working now.
Again it is a 2006 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7 Liter Engine it is now sitting at about 78000 miles happened the first time at about 50-55000 miles.
06 Camry SE I4
I had to replace my catalytic converter because of the code I was getting. It wasn't difficult to do, but took me a while because I had to transfer the thread rods to the new CAT. Once the new CAT was installed, I went to test her out, but noticed that the car all of a sudden, has no electrical power. Nothing at all. I checked all fuses and nothing is blown. The only electrical I messed with on the car was the O2 sensor.
Car has a brand new battery from yesterday. The only thing I didn't do is install a support bracket on one side, because it was missing a bolt and one thread rod was stuck in the old CAT, i couldn't remove it.
A friend suggested that the missing bracket may be causing a ground issue. Is this true?
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty (2WD), 149k miles, that has been using a lot of antifreeze lately. I am using a full 50/50 gallon mix about once a week. I do not have any visible leaks. My heater no longer works and I was not sure if that may be a cause. The check engine light is on, but has been since I purchased the vehicle in 2012. I thought it may be a gasket, but do not see any white smoke from the exhaust. I am not hearing any strange sounds, so I am perplexed.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2wd (V6-3.7L) that is showing an overheat on the temperature gauge on the dashboard. I replaced the radiator (which I noticed had pin hole leaks), the water pump, thermostat, and the temperature gauge sensor. The car is no longer running through coolant, but the temperature gauge on the dash still reads an overheat. I do not have any bubbling when the engine is cool, no white smoke, the fan turns on just fine, a/c and heater work, no visible leaks, equal heat from both rubber hoses to and from the radiator and fluid seems to be passing through them.
There is also no smoke and no weird sounds from the engine. The overheat on the gauge comes after about 10 minutes of operation and happens whether I am driving on the highway or stopped at light.The only thing that causes the temperature gauge to go down to normal is turning on the heater full blast.Is this issue just a short in a wire somewhere? Should I start thinking head gasket? If yes to head gasket, should I use the "sealants" that are out on the market as a temporary fix?
I recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
I have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
View 2 RepliesSomeone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
So this morning (Kind of Cold) I went out site and started my car. I heard some noise under the car and I noticed that the noise bad been coming from the Catalytic Converter area and there was water dripping off of it.
My guess is that it was just warming up and the water was from the cold. Is it normal?
I have a GLX V6 ...