Lexus - Engines - Blower-motors - 300 - Rx300 :: 2000 - Loud Noise At Times
Feb 7, 2011
I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Big Horn, 5.8L V8 Hemi my air conditioning only works when I'm driving forward, and does not work at all any more when I'm sitting still at an idle. this is a new problem. the A/C has worked like a champ for the past year (since I started using this vehicle). I even refilled it by myself last summer, with no issues until now. when it is at idle, I hear a clicking coming from the A/C system, and the RPM's arch a little bit. then it clicks again, and the RPM's go back down. it does this 2-3 times a minute. also when at idle, the air is VERY HOT, considerably warmer than the outside air. also, I have a pressure gauge for the A/C system (came with the refill kit last summer) and it says that the system is holding too much pressure. it suggests a possible mechanical problem.
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Currently I own a 2000 Lexus RX 300. I just had an oil change but there is a noise by the tires only when I accelerate. When I put my foot on the brakes it stops. I am at a loss. Where would the best place to ask and get the work done.
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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2000 Lexus RX300 - door locks/acutators... the locks open and close perfectly with the master driver actuator lock unlock button or with the the remote IF the temp is 70 degrees or below. If the temp is above 70 degrees the the actuators for all four doors will NOT all lock..1-4 do sometimes....they vary from door to door, day to day , including the driver driver door. Actators are expensive. Because they do work when cooler it tells me they do work. Why not when warm? what do I need to do? This is my mystery
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I have a 2000 lexus rx300. the steering rack was replaced 2yrs/20k ago. now, there is very slight seeping of fluid. only noticeable on on the boot and never drips onto the floor. i took it back to the dealer and they said that is normal and after 2yrs it's in very good shape. i question why if the seals are working properly then should i see this?
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A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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2000... I have a code P0171 bank 1 too lean. My question is does this exclude anything that will effect both banks? If it was MAF sensor or fuel filter would it set code and say banks 1 and 2 running too lean? In which MAF sensor ohms out correctly. I cannot view fuel trim files. I have looked for a vacuum leak with no luck. I got some cigars to try to smoke it to see if there is any vacuum leaks. Trying to narrowing what i need to checks.
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After tune-up to my 2000 RX300 (105k miles), car came back with clicking noise under dash... took back to repair shop they agreed sounds like morse code, or like rain falling. They examined under hood and said they don't know source, but that the work they did couldn't be causing it. They said could be drive belt and/or pulleys, or clutch on AC, or alternator bearings... that it doesn't look like any major issue. I brought the car in for a tune up and it came out with this annoying noise. Do I keep pushing them to figure it out what the did and correct it? Or do I trust them that additional work/expense needs to be made? What could the noise it be? It appears spread across the whole dash, but under the hood just sounds like a consistent clicking noise near the belts.
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My father-in-law's 2001 Lexus RX300 makes squealing/whistling sound when engine is cold. Multiple serpentine belts replacements and adjustments made no difference. One mechanic said it's the bearing inside the alternator, but I find it difficult to believe. Why would bearing sound go away when it heats up? Besides, having issues with bearings inside things like alternators and such.
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I have been noticing a squealing sound that I believe is coming from the rear brakes. I only hear this when I back up form the garage and apply the brakes. This happens mostly when the weather is cold, and only when I first back from the garage. This sound can be loud at times. Took it to two different dealers, but they could not hear anything. Of course this only happens when I first drive the car, so no wonder they can not hear it. I have been reading about it, and it seems many people have had the same problem. Some say it is the brake pads, the rotor, etc., 2013 RX 350...
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I have a 2003 super duty V10 4WD super cab long bed.
loud deep rumble noise when turn on the blower. both heat and a/c. removed the blower and seemed to turn ok. blew out all vents. removed heater radiator cover, checked most flaps to see if working. doesn't seem to be obstruction invent. the flap behind blower clear and functioning ok.
When on second speed, almost sounds like blower motor is out of balance. if run on high for 1 minute, smell electrical burning! Think to replace motor will work? will post another issue with radio and power windows
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The VSC light came on at approximately 62000 miles. Took it too a mechanic who put it on computer, found gas cap loose, and reconnected hose under air filter however no code shows on the computer for a fix. The VSC light still remains on. Tried all the internet fixes; pulling fuse & disconnecting battery cable. The light goes out but as soon as I move the car it comes back on. Is there anything I can do to avoid a large dollar visit to the Lexus dealer since there are no driving or stopping symptoms with the car.
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I replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
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Recently bought a 2006 RX400h - my first Lexus. Occasionally when braking it feels like the electric motors "won't release" for a second or two and the car lurches. Eventually they do and then braking feels normal. But while this is happening it feels like I have to really step on the brakes to get it to stop.
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My 1999 lexus rx300 first threw a P1135 following a P0125, I tested the sensor and it was open at the heater circuit then then I was waiting the new part in the mail and during that time it kept running rough and then it threw a P0300, P0301, P0305, P0303. I was thinking that the PCM cannot monitor A/F ratio without the sensor so maybe the injector base pulse width was good enough. The misfire is are on bank 1, same as the bank 1 A/F sensor.
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We have a '99 Lexus RX300 with 174,000 miles (the engine has 130,000). The check engine light has been on for 2 years. The first mechanic found it was an O2 sensor and said that we didn't need to really do anything as long as the car was running good. So we didn't. Apparently a new code appears when running a diagnostic for the evap. sensor or vapor canister...is that right??? We had the evap sensor fixed..or so we thought and than tried to have the vapor canister worked on but the mechanic said the light came on.
Recently, the car has started lurching or losing power when it's warmed up and when it's accelerating. So, we took it to the Lexus dealership and 2 things were suggested
1) the vapor canister had been installed incorrectly and
2) sounds like the transmission is going.
So I have 2 questions, I think,
1) What is going on with the check engine light?
2) Does this sound like the transmission is going?
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 with 235,000 miles. I have been having a challenge with the "check engine" light coming on. I have taken it to a reputable mechanic several times. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, and the light went out. I had an emissions inspection, and the light came back on during the test, but it still passed, and the inspection report commented that there was a communication error, but no other problems. Every time the light comes on my mechanic puts his testing equipment on and finds no problems. I am trying to sell the car, but I am concerned that any potential buyer is going to look a the high miles and the check engine light and get scared off. The car is in great condition and looks like a very well taken care of car.
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I just bought a 2005 RX300. It has a DVD in the glove compartment, which is not originally from Lexus, connected with the navigation screen.
When I turn it on, it starts playing the disc. But I cant find how to activate it on the navigation screen. I don't get any audio as well.
Tried the MD1 button, but it plays my flash drive, which is also in the glove compartment. Also tried CD button in different ways.
I know it is individual depending on how they install these, but what to try? There is also an remote for the DVD, but also doesn't seem to do anything about getting the audio and video on the screen.
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Run my lexus around in traffic or up hills the temp gauge goes into the red, leave it running in the driveway it overheats and yes the fans work using the a/c so i know its not the fan motors the wires from both the fans go into a fan computer in the middle of the fans near the top of the radiator.....searched all over for a fan temp switch does it have one?
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2002 Lexus Rx300. The recent problem that I have been having is that various times when I go to accelerate my car from a stop position, i.e. stop sign, red light, my car will act as if something is getting stuck at the front right wheel pulling my car to the right and not allowing me to accelerate. It will make a grinding sounding noise. I have to usually lift my foot off the accelerator, straighten out the wheel and then press the gas again for the car to move. Sometimes the action it strong enough it causes the 'Slip Indicator' light to come up on my dash. It will happen at almost every stop light so driving in the city it gets rather annoying. At long distances on highways everything is fine because I'm not in a stop and go situation. My mechanic can't seem to figure out what the problem is so nothing has been fixed about it.
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