My Lincoln engine / coolant fan is running high about 90% of the time but the car is not overheating or heating up prior to the fan issue. This is a new situation. I'm trying to avoid a $1200.00 new fan purchase ( it only comes as a one unit option - fan, shroud, motor ).
View 4 RepliesBoth engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
View 12 RepliesI'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
Lately I've noticed the radiator fan has been running fairly excessively for the entire duration of a trip. (~1 hour) The ambient outside temperature has been around 30 degrees and was driving normally on the highway for the entire trip. (engine temps are normal as well)..
When I shut the engine down and get out you can tell the fan was really working since it takes a good 10 seconds to spin down. (almost like a jet engine shutting down). Still other times, it doesn't do it with the same conditions. One of the only things I can narrow it down to is it seems to always run long when it's the first drive of the day.
My 2003 camry LE 4 cyl cooling/radiator fans stay on all the time. As soon as I turn the ignition key both radiator fan start to spin even though the car is cold and not on. I checked all the relays and fuses. Checked the voltage on the coolant sensor harness with ignition switch on, there is no 5v or the green pin is not grounded. I am clueless where to go next.
View 14 RepliesTrouble with the fuel gauge showing full all the time - only goes down 1/8th at most. Repair shop said would have to pull dash to find the trouble.
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 lincoln LS run rough after warm up. Check engine light code is EGR , replaced EGR.
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light came on today and my fan has been running pretty loud for the last couple of days. Also when I start hitting the gas under 1500 rpm there is a little rattle that I can here but it goes away around 1500 rpms and you can also hear it if you let of the gas and let the rpms go down then hit the gas again pretty hard?? It is a 2000 lincoln ls with the v8 around 110k, and i have had numerous problems with it. About 6 months ago i replace about 5,000$ worth of parts including, head gaskets, coolant clutch pump, power steering pump, timing chains or belts, and other things because I was having overheating problems.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Lincoln runs rough after warm up.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 f150 v6 occassionally leaks a little inside when running the AC for long periods of time. Its only a little bit, and Ive noticed it after several road trips with the AC on the whole time. I am aware of a service bulletin fix on this. Essentially the problem is the two drain holes are horizontal through the firewall so air blows water back in, and the fix is to fit two L shaped hoses to block the wind and allow the water to drain downward in the engine compartment. I have done this months ago and it has largely solved the problem, when the water was more of an issue. My question is, is some condensation to be expected or is something clogged up? From time to time the heater core area makes a faint rhythmic rattling that goes away eventually.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
View 13 RepliesHere are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
I recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
My 2000 Windstar cooling fan on the passenger side is running all the time when I am driving, even in freezing temperature. My gas mileage goes from 18 to 13 now.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
First time I've ever noticed it at least. And she's been on 2 huge x-country road trips with much hotter temps than the other day.
View 8 RepliesA/C takes a long time to start cooling, but after it starts it gets as cold as it should. Seems to do okay while highway driving after it starts cooling. Is this a low refrig problem or do I have bigger issues?
View 3 RepliesOver the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
View 19 RepliesYesterday, I had to accelerate really really fast...ever since then, my fan does not turn off (when the car starts). I just started the car cold and it is running. I think the fan relay has gone out. I'm not sure which fan exactly...but when I opened the hood, I see that the fan behind the radiator is the one that is spinning.
Where is the relay for the fan is in the main junction box under the hood (near the front left strut)? Can I put the relay out (by hand) while the car is running? Can I also drive to work for a day or so with the fan on while I wait for a fan relay?
Toyota 2000 Corolla (CE 4-spd auto) with 60k miles.