Lincoln - Engines - Lights - Ls :: CEL Came On And Fan Has Been Running Pretty Loud
Mar 8, 2011
My check engine light came on today and my fan has been running pretty loud for the last couple of days. Also when I start hitting the gas under 1500 rpm there is a little rattle that I can here but it goes away around 1500 rpms and you can also hear it if you let of the gas and let the rpms go down then hit the gas again pretty hard?? It is a 2000 lincoln ls with the v8 around 110k, and i have had numerous problems with it. About 6 months ago i replace about 5,000$ worth of parts including, head gaskets, coolant clutch pump, power steering pump, timing chains or belts, and other things because I was having overheating problems.
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I was driving down a long steep hill on the highway going about 65. I put it into engine braking, B, because I didn't want to just ride the brake the whole way down. The engine was revving pretty loud and with no RPM guide, I had no clue if it was OK, so I ended up going back into D and just rode the brakes all the way downhill.
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I have noticed the brakes to be squeaking pretty loud car has about 37k miles and the last service done at 32k shows front pads to be at 5mm and rears at 9mm. What am I looking at is it covered under warranty or I just need to swap the pads.
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So I have an 06 Sonata with 56k miles on it. A few months back it started squeaking by the struts. It got worse last month and was pretty loud when going over speed bumps. Especially in the mornings
During my research on replacing them I came across a you tube video of a guy using AT-205 resealer to fix the squeak. Of course I bought some and was about to try it out but noticed that there was a lot of dirt and grime around the struts and other rubber mounts.
I decided before using the AT-205 I should clean everything first. Took some degreaser and sprayed everything I could see, including any other rubber mounts in the area. Rinsed thoroughly with water. Let it dry overnight and before applying the AT-205 decided to see if there was any change. To my surprise, there is no more squeaking. (It has only been 2 days though).
Hopefully it will not come back otherwise will use the AT-205 and failing that, will have to take the plunge and replace the struts.
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Ok first of all i know this sounds really stupid. I got curious of the intake system and I unbolted the tube that does down to the (turbo i think) anyways I figured it was the intake for the engine. Anyways I went for a quick little drive, and it was not the intake for the engine it was the for the turbo. The turbo sounded pretty loud and made a whoosh when the throttle was released. Cool. 2 min later the car shut off i started it back up drove home, and put every back the way it was suppose to be! and there is a check engine light. My question is... How do I reset the light myself instead of the dealer doing it, I thought i remembered how to do it somehow without anything. Btw was doing that anyway harmful?
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My 2001 Prius makes this sound when the engine is running. All the battery lights are on all the time, I think it needs a new HV battery but I'm not sure if it's worth it. Perhaps the other battery is faulty I really don't know. All the engine lights are on and if the brake light comes on it starts shaking or the power steering fails or it just completely shuts off on the road no lights no power steering nothing. When that happens I use a battery booster that I keep in my trunk to get it going again but it's really dangerous to drive now.
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, it has 253k miles, i know, alot of miles. Well, i noticed it has been losing coolant pretty fast, i would fill it up with coolant and it would run out by the next day. I also notice that when i am sitting still, it runs hot, not sure if that goes along with it losing coolant rapidly or if that could be something else. I checked my oil dipstick the other day, it doesn't seem to have coolant mixing in with the oil, so i don't think it would be a head blown, i know i do need a gasket changed, but not an actual head for the engine. I haven't noticed any coolant in my driveway, then again I shouldn't have a leak, i just had the radiator, thermostat, water pump and the bell housing all changed a couple months ago. I also noticed that i am running low on oil more often as well. The other day, after i topped it off with oil, it was blowing out white smoke off and on and then it stopped, what could that be?
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My car is making a loud deceleration noise evertime I let off of the accelerator. It appears the RPMS are not adjusting. Could this be my transmission, timing or something else?
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My 2002 lincoln LS run rough after warm up. Check engine light code is EGR , replaced EGR.
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My Lincoln engine / coolant fan is running high about 90% of the time but the car is not overheating or heating up prior to the fan issue. This is a new situation. I'm trying to avoid a $1200.00 new fan purchase ( it only comes as a one unit option - fan, shroud, motor ).
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My 2002 Lincoln runs rough after warm up.
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Mazda RX8. Because of the love of his car, he doesn't like to turn off the engine for short stops. That means if we go to a fast food place for takeout, he'll leave the car running while we order and wait for the food to be prepared. To my horror, I realized that he also left the car running while filling up his gas tank - while I was still in the car! I didn't want to ruffle feathers on the first date, so I thought I would ask here first: is it really "that dangerous" to fill up while the car is running? And if so, how can I bring it up without hurting his ego and diminishing my chances of another date?
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
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I have a 2000 Honda Civic Ex automatic 225k miles on it. Recently replaced spark plug and spark plug wires. Just had an oil change and an inspection done; they found an oil leak in the oil pan (oil pan cover gasket needs replaced). I have a severe lack in power, meaning it doesn't have the get-up-n-go it should. Doesn't shift until it hits 3.5 rpms, idles pretty loud, and noticed earlier today that there is a rattling that seems to be coming from front drivers side(could of been the road, adding it in for good measure) but that didn't happen till i hit 65. The coolant tank has a black grime in it, and from what i understand that's from deteriorating hoses(?). My question is this: What could be causing this loss of power?
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I have a 2016 mkx and when we shut it off, all of the lights stay on. We turned off the headlamp delay. Set it to zero.
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
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The check engine comes on and goes off intermittently. Because it was not on when the situation was checked the diagnostic scan did not show a problem. I have noticed that the gas cap has been extraordinarily tight on two occasions and after the car was refueled, the light went out when it was supposed to when the car was restarted. Today the light came on, but the cap was just normally snug. The car has been scrupulously maintained. It is a 2001 model with 145,000 on the odometer. No other problems are evident.
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My 2000 town car ABS light and Check Trac lights come on after I drive down the street. It will stay on until I shut the car off then reset. If I just start the car and idle it will not come on....
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A few days ago I went to start my car and nothing happen I saw no dome light so I went and purchased a new battery. I replaced the battery and saw I had a dome light. I went to turn over the car and nothing happened. No sound no nothing, I did notice my radio (( Stock still )) was not able to be turned on..
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