Mazda - Mazda6 :: 2006 - P0302 Random Misfire - CEL Comes On
Sep 5, 2014
Mazda6. I have a check engine light for a random misfire on cylinder 2. I have changed the spark plugs, the injector, and even the cylinder 2 coil, but still have that random misfire. The funny thing is that it would run great within short (about 30 miles) one way trips. Lately, I have gotten a new symptom: It has started to hesitate and can feel a loss of power but only once the car has been driven for about ten minutes non stop. Can't figure this out.
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we have an 2006 Mazada 6 automatic transmission with the option of manually shifting gears. we have had it a year and the only maintenance is work on the air conditioner, oil changes, and new tires. when accelerating on an incline or sometimes during/after a curve as it shifts into 4th gear it makes a terrible noise and the whole car jerks. the best way I know to describe it is it feels as if the bottom of the car is about to fall out! when we first purchased it, it done this a couple times and basically quit doing it for a few months.
It seems to be getting worse though. we have never had a check engine light. we sent a can of "sea foam" through the gas tank and this seemed to work. a local mechanic examined it and test drove it but couldn’t find anything wrong with it. (of course it didn’t act like this when he drove it!) I called mazda dealership and they cant tell us anything without us bringing it in and charging us no telling how much just to look at it. no one seems to be able to figure this out….
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I have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?
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I have a 2006 Mazda 6 that ive owned for a year now. It has this random problem tho.... when accelerating into 4th gear it makes a horrendous racket like the bottom is falling out of the car or something and sorta jerks. it has been doing this a long time. other than that it drives fine! i have no mechanical knowledge about cars so im totally clueless! this seems to happen when accelerating on an incline.
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2009 Accent, 1.6L 154,xxx Cylinder two misfire. Engine was rebuilt due to timing belt. Twice. Second time I did it. Replaced plugs, coil packs, all gaskets, (everything new in the head) did a smoke test, compression test 180 psi across all four, used a noid light for coil packs (good) did it at the injectors 1,3,4 did good, but 2 came on then went off. Check resistance and it shows good, replaced injector anyway and the connecter. Still doesn't work. Checked powers and grounds at the rail, good. Good solid voltage. I hooked up a scan tool and tried to shut injector 2 off, no change in RPM or vibration. Scan tool worked for 1,3,4. Used another PCM, still misfire in two. Even jumped a wire from PCM control and 15A inj fuse for the 12V constant (bypassed the harness) and still doesn't work. Also have knock sensor code, just two codes.
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Check engine code (P0302). I have a 2007 GS 350 with 116k miles that was driving perfect until this week. My check engine light was initially blinking but is now on solid along with the check VSC light. My question is: of the 6 cylinders (3 on the left and 3 on the right when facing the engine) which one is cylinder 2?
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I have a 2010 accent GL manual sedan. It has 104,962 KM on it, the warranty expired December 18, 2015. Since February this car has become a frustrating money pit. Being in the dealership constantly for repairs, then within a week something else 'happens' and back it goes. Spent almost $5000 in 4 months on repairs. Decided that's enough and will do majority of repairs myself.
Yesterday while drive on the highway I had a sudden loss of power and a check engine light came on. My scanner which has become a standard item in my glove box indicated a misfire on cylinder 2 - P0302. I limped the car home, in 3rd gear I was having a hard time staying above 2000rpm at 60km/h. at lights I had to use hand brake so I could keep my foot on accelerator, revs were dropping below 300.
Today I replaced all the plugs (all 4 were still in good or better condition, #2 showed signs of a slightly rich burn and #3 a slightly lean burn), replaced all coil boots (no cracks, no burns, and still pliable), removed and cleaned all the injectors. Error code P0302 persists.
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This has been an ongoing issue with our 2006. We purchased the car about a year ago and have put on just over 8,000 miles. Rebuilt the battery pack and replaced the 12v battery. This is my wife's car and I have a 2005, so I have done some diagnostics, tuneup, and even swapped some parts between the two cars trying to narrow down the issues.
Only recently have codes been recorded. The car is has a noticeable misfire at low RPM. Here is what has happened up until now:
11/29/15 - replaced spark plugs - #1 was fouled so I swapped coils between cylinders 1 and 4
2/25/16 - replaced 12v battery with new battery
4/1/16 - P0300, P0301 codes were first recorded and reset to see if they came back
4/10/16 - swapped Integration Relay with my 2005 (part # 82641-47010). My 2005 ran poorly after the swap, so I put a used one in my 2005.
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My '04 v6 wagon 100K will misfire in really damp conditions. Last fall after going through a massive puddle and today after sitting for a couple of days of warm damp foggy & rainy New England spring weather. OBDII scanner is reporting cylinder 3 as the one misfiring in the fall, today there were a ton of codes (that I didn't note).
So I made it about 2 miles from the house and had to turn back. No power, check light flashing. I had to put it in manual and keep the revs highish (3-4K). When I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing yellow, assuming one or more cylinders were passing fuel out to the exhaust and it was being burnt off in the manifold.
My question: could I have damaged any gaskets back there? This could be my imagination but I think I'm hearing a new noise that I'd normally attribute to an exhaust leak downstream of the muffler, very subtle - like a gentle light but rapid thud. I only hear this noise with my ear to in the front driver's wheel well. There's no ticking noise I normally attribute to leaks near the manifold. My imagination or is it easy to damage something in the circumstances I describe?
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My son's mazda 6 will turn over but not start. the things I have done:
1. replace crank sensor
2. replace cam shaft sensors
3. it has spark
4. fuel pump works
5. sprayed starting fluid in still will not start.
What else should I check? Security system?
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I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 133000 miles on it. Recently it has started making a very loud sound that comes from under the hood. The sounds is comparable to the sound a semi truck makes if it is idling. The noise is not constant, usually happens when I put the car in park or if I'm driving at low speed (under 20mph). The sound lasts around one minute.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed manual transmission. I was driving on the highway today (going about 65mph), and all of a sudden, my car kind of "jolted" (like it stalled out). When I tried pushing the gas pedal, the car wouldn't accelerate. When this happened, the check engine light (and some other lights) went on, too. I pulled over to the side, turned the car off, and turned it back on. It seemed to start fine and gas/acceleration was working. Fortunately, I was able to get home, but it started doing it more frequently up until I got to my apartment. Each time, I had to turn the car off and restart it.
Oddly enough, when the car does this and I pull over to the side, the engine is still on. However, even though the engine is on and the car is idling, I noticed the RPMs were sort of jumping between 0 and 1000, and the engine was sputtering (like it was sputtering with the RPMs jumping, the only way I can describe this sputtering is like a heart beat). The only thing that seems to work is to turn the car off and turn it back on, which will then allow the gas pedal to work, only to have it happen again a few minutes later. The gas pedal doesn't get stuck or anything, it's just pushing it doesn't seem to accelerate the car.
I've already had the engine replaced on this car last year (at 80K) and the clutch a few months ago, too.
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2009 mazda6, I feel some vibration feels like wheel is out of balance coming from the front left wheel, it's most noticable at 30mph and again at 60mph. It's more noticable when i'm turning right, e.g. shiting to the right lane.
Already replaced four tires, balanced the tires and replaced front struts and rear shocks.. and it's still there!!
when shifting to the right lane, the vibration feels like da-da-da-da-da.. like I'm driving over some washboard road.
What could this be, is this CV-joint? can I ask dealer to check out CV-joint see if it's ok?
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Can a problem elsewhere in the system cause ignition coils to go bad? I have an '03 Mazda 6s, 147k miles, owned it since new (Dec '02). 3 1/2 ~ 4 years ago, over a period of 6 months I had to replace 4 of the 6 coils. A month ago, one of the replaced coils went bad so I had all three rear bank coils replaced (cheaper to do all three at once rather than one at at a time since half the engine needs to be disassembled to get at them). This week, I started to get the initial symptom of a coil going bad on me: Occasional stuttering in the engine.
This issue always starts when it's wet outside. The first few times it started when going through a car wash, this last time was right after Super Storm Sandy dumped a lot of rain (I am not in one of the flooded areas, NH just got a lot of rain).
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I have a 2003 Mazda6, 108K miles. Had the ATF changed last December at the dealer. Prior to this, there was some hesitancy to shift into 1st when cold. Last several months, it has gotten worse. Engine revs (as much as I allow it, which ain't much) and then goes into first. Dealer thought they had overfilled the ATF, and reflushed and refilled. Said they couldn't find any other problems. There is no CEL. Problem was better for a short while after fluid change, but now back to long hesitation. Car goes into Reverse fine when cold. Once the car is warm, I don't notice the hesitancy to shift to first. How to diagnose?
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MILEAGE: 65,000
Last time I was in, the shop replaced my sway bar links, which had already been diagnosed and the repair scheduled. Then, after replacing the sway bar links, the mechanic told me that the control arm bushings were cracked. They already put new struts on the front, as well. So I asked him what else was going to go wrong with my suspension. He said nothing else should need work. He also said that the car was safe to drive for a couple months but I definitely needed to get it fixed.
QUESTIONS:
Is it normal for a car with 65,000 miles to have cracked bushings? I realize that the car is 11 years old; I just wondered how much a car's mileage plays into cracking the bushings and, if so, after how many miles should one expect before cracking occurs.
Does it sound like they're trying to soak me? Why tell me one thing at a time? Perhaps more revenue from the labor side of things?
Assuming the bushings truly need to be replaced, does the community here think there is anything else that should be checked and taken care of at the same time? It is both costly and annoying to have to take the car back numerous times.
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I have a 2005 Mazda6 4 cyl manual transmission, purchased this past holidays. Last week the clutch disk totally wore out and the car was not moving at all... AT 68000 miles only. I am a new manual transmission driver and I think I might have been part of the problem. My mechanic, who is a family friend, has replaced already the clutch kit and he found out that the clutch disc was not only worn out but actually damaged, shattered on a side. So I got scolded by him and my father as they suggested that I damaged it by doing improper shifting. They suggested that I went from 4th or 3rd gear to 1st thus damaging the clutch disc for the car to totally stop moving.
However that's very unlikely in my opinion. I don't know if Mazda included some sort of safety feature in the transmission, but the car never let me go in 1st gear if it was already in motion, the shifter would lock if I attempted (found that out when driving in stop-and-go heavy traffic). I thought my problem was due to my foot frequently flirting with the clutch pedal in order to keep my driving and shifting smooth. In fact a few friends of mine who drove manuals in the past complimented me on my driving becoming so smooth in a short time. I also think that I bought the car with the clutch kit carrying some sort of damage on it, since in the first weeks of ownership, my practice period, I would often smell a burning odor when I was not doing things smoothly. Once I got better I never smelt the odor again until a few days before the clutch gave out.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6. Almost every day, after starting it and driving maybe .10 of a mile, it seems as my car shifts, it shifts really hard, like a thump. I am thinking of having the Transmission serviced. Is this worth it? About what should the cost be? What do they do, just drain the fluid and add new?
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I've got a mazda 6 v6 3.7 from the year 2010 with approx. 69000 miles on the clock. I noticed when going uphill at low or high speeds that the car seems to feel like it is shifting but it actually isn't. For example when I drive on the highway about 70 going up a hill it feels like it shifts every few seconds even on manual mode in 6th gear.
When I hit the gas it shifts back and I don't feel it anymore. At lower speeds it feels like it is doing a whole lot of shifting at low/medium acceleration. Again if I hit the gas and accelerate faster the car just goes normally up its gears. I think this is the torque converter doing this, but I am not sure whether it is normal?
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I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 104k on it. The clutch started sticking a couple weeks ago right where it would engage into gear, and I'd have to use my foot to pop it back up. It only happened here and there until finally, it stuck to the floor and became very difficult, if not impossible, to get out of gear. So everywhere I looked, it seemed that the slave cylinder was the culprit. I got a new one at AutoZone, replaced it yesterday, and the car ran great last night and this morning.
Then, this afternoon, in one 10 mile trip, it went back to the original problem. Stuck with every gear change, then stuck to the floor after I pushed it in and darn near wouldn't come out of gear. What in the world could be the problem?
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Have an 07 Mazda6 with 110k miles. It developed a clunk in the right rear suspension about 6 months ago. Constant clunk at low speeds, whether small bumps, snow-covered roads, etc. Been to five different mechanics with no luck.
So far, the rear shocks have been replaced; made no difference. Stabilizer bar and end links were removed from car and driven carefully around the parking lot; no difference. New control arm lateral links installed; no difference. Top shock mount plate is tight, and rear coil springs removed and inspected during that process; no difference. No brake pad retaining pins are missing.
When I sit in the back of the car with the seats down, the sound seems to come from the top of the shock mounting area, but perhaps the noise is just traveling up through that area of the car.
Could it be a bad lower control arm bushing? Each mechanic checks them with a bar and reports little play. But I don't know where to go next. Car drives fine, but the noise is maddening.
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